Re: [time-nuts] Digests too often...
Hi Matt, Thank you for your prompt reply, yes I understand, the problem these days is there are more and more mobility and poeple sending their emails to their mobile phones. May be an idea is to have two style of digests like heavy or lite, or another solution to offer users to choose the number of messages into their Digest. These are just ideas to avoid users having too much Bzzi Bzzi into their pocket... ;-) Best regards pf Le 28/02/2010 07:39, Matthew Smith a écrit : Quoth Pierre-François (f5bqp_pfm) at 2010-02-28 16:55... Why the Digest of this group is sent evey one or two hours? Most mailing list softwares send either at a set interval OR when a certain number of messages are received - whichever happens first. This prevents a very busy system from sending out digests that may contain hundreds of messages. (Far too difficult to read through.) ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs
A few months ago I bought an HP 8647A signal generator that had the plastic shaft of an optical encoder sheared off at the bushing. I had to take the encoder apart and graft an aluminum shaft onto the stub of the plastic one. To my amazement, it worked! Ed Don Latham wrote: I've fixed shafts like this carefully with plastic swizzle sticks and super glue. Did I say carefully? a little dab'll do ya... Don - Original Message - From: Mark Sims hol...@hotmail.com To: time-nuts@febo.com Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:10 PM Subject: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs If it's the one that I think it is... look closely at the photo. The shafts on two of the pots are sheared off at the panel. These are the display update control and the external arming level control. These were custom HP pots with a funky (and delicate) switch. They had brittle plastic shafts.Gee, how do I know this... could it be that a large percentage of the 5370's for sale have the same defect? Luckily those controls are not too critical for normal operation. They can be replaced with regular (switchless) pots if you jumper the switch pads correctly. Be careful, there were two different layouts to those controls. -- So exactly how did you know that I bought a (cheap) 5370B a few hours ago on the e-place _ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
The 0032 was an op-amp and the 0033 and 0063 a buffer. The 0063 was a high power/higher slew-rate version. They were, and still are, great to use. I do have some 0032s and 0033s. Never played with the 0063. 73 - Mike Mike B. Feher, N4FS 89 Arnold Blvd. Howell, NJ, 07731 732-886-5960 -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Griffiths Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 9:56 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs Mike Feher wrote: In general, what about the old National damn fast and super damn fast LH0032 LH0033? I used to use a lot of those in my designs many years ago. - Mike Mike B. Feher, N4FS 89 Arnold Blvd. Howell, NJ, 07731 732-886-5960 The LH0032 was a fast FET input opamp. I presume you meant the LH0033 and LH0063? Their slew rate is adequate to ensure that the 5370A/B trigger jitter is insignificant. However they need a negative supply as well as the positive supply when being driven by a 3.3V or 5V CMOS output. Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
Hi That's the one, right down to the description of the pots. If it doesn't become a working counter, it's cheap enough to be a parts donor. Of course having multiple counters all with the exact same broken parts doesn't do much good . For the external arm level control I might go for a fixed level and forget about the pot entirely. It's been about 20 years since I've played with a 5370, so Im drawing a blank on the display update control. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 12:10 AM, Mark Sims wrote: If it's the one that I think it is... look closely at the photo. The shafts on two of the pots are sheared off at the panel. These are the display update control and the external arming level control. These were custom HP pots with a funky (and delicate) switch. They had brittle plastic shafts. Gee, how do I know this... could it be that a large percentage of the 5370's for sale have the same defect? Luckily those controls are not too critical for normal operation. They can be replaced with regular (switchless) pots if you jumper the switch pads correctly. Be careful, there were two different layouts to those controls. -- So exactly how did you know that I bought a (cheap) 5370B a few hours ago on the e-place _ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Looking for a 5370 red digit cover/window
Jim Worse case if you do not find the replacement Digi-key and I would guess mouser caries the filter material for a reasonable price. (At least they did) I needed some to replace a missing piece on a HP 5360 and HP 8505. On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 10:44 PM, Jim Cotton jim.cot...@wmich.edu wrote: I need the red plastic digit cover/window [approximately 1 3/4 x 14 3/4] to complete the repair of a HP 5370 counter/timer. I don't care if it says 5370A or B. I assume that no major change occurred other than the unit identifier changing. Perhaps someone can correct me if I am wrong in making this assumption. It would be nice to get the bezel clip/strip too, however I suspect that they tend to disintegrate during removal of the red display cover. Does anyone have this available from a parts chassis in their lab? I would be happy to pay a reasonable price plus postage. I am located in Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA. Jim Cotton n8qoh ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help
You went quite?? On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 9:54 AM, paul swed paulsw...@gmail.com wrote: Gerard you have some great comments already and welcome back to the electronics hobby. A couple of things. Curious about whats on the board etc. Here would be my thoughts. If the same 10 MC signal thats the reference is also the input. Then any funny numbers are the process leftovers or jitter. I think this would also help you find the max resolution quickly. Once you introduce external signals it becomes more difficult to understand whats happening. I built a LORAN C simulator driven by a Rb reference. When I drive the austron 2100 with the same reference the austron ultimately settles at its max resolution of 1 E-13. Very interesting first project you clearly have a good background in applied electronics On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 7:36 AM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: Gerard PG5G wrote: Hello all, First post here, so I'll start with a quick introduction. I trained as an electronic engineer but don't work in that field any more, which has given me the appetite back to do some electronic engineering as a hobby. I have been a licensed ham for over 25 years (more than 60% of my life I realised the other day) and used to be rather active on HF as PA3DQW. At the moment I live in the UK where I am licensed as M0AIU. I recently designed and build a frequency counter and I need some help with verifying its performance. I believe it gives me 11 digits in 1 second. I say believe because I have not got the hardware to verify this. At the moment my assumption is based on calculations and limited testing with the equipment available to me. My counter is a continuous time stamping reciprocal counter. I implemented this as a USB powered device, with the hardware taking the time stamps and sending it over USB to a windows PC. Some software written in C++ takes care of analysing the data. The hardware takes 5000 time stamps per second using a high speed TDC. The hardware is a single PCB measuring about 50 by 80 mm. it requires an external 10MHz reference and apart from using this as the time base it also uses this for self-calibration of the TDC. The unit requires no further calibration. The PC software takes these time stamps and the associated counts and uses regression to calculate the slope. This slope represents the frequency of the input signal. I am sure people on here are familiar with the counters made by Pendulum, and I have to confess that their marketing material was helpful in putting this thing together. Since the hardware is true zero dead time, the final capabilities of this counter are determined by software. At the moment I can simultaneously display the input at multiple gate times (see the attached screen shot). For gate times over 1 second I have the option to use overlapping gates, so that the display gets updated every second. Because there is no dead time I can also calculate Allan Deviation. The two displays at the bottom of the page show both normal and overlapping Allan deviation at tau=10s. I am still working on the software to do this at multiple tau in real time and display it as a graph and a table. So, after this lengthy introduction here is my request for some assistance. Is there somebody on the list who can assist me in verifying the performance of this frequency counter? Ideally somebody with access to two highly stable and known frequency sources. I can send the hardware by mail, but if there happens to be somebody with this kind of gear not too far from where I am (50 north of London) I will travel. In exchange you get to keep the hardware and will be supplied with whatever software I come up with. Thanks in advance and regards, Gerard, PG5G Are you calculating ADEV and MDEV using the slopes determined by the regression fit? If so, what you calculate isn't ADEV or MDEV. You need to use the raw timestamps taken at a rate of 5000/sec directly to produce estimates of ADEV, MDEV. What is the resolution of the TDC? Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Looking for a 5370 red digit cover/window
I have a 5370B that is missing about half of it's red plastic digit cover/window and would like to repair it as well. Do you have a suggestion as to how to start searching Digi-Key and Mouser? Thanks, Joe -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of paul swed Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 9:09 AM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Looking for a 5370 red digit cover/window Jim Worse case if you do not find the replacement Digi-key and I would guess mouser caries the filter material for a reasonable price. (At least they did) I needed some to replace a missing piece on a HP 5360 and HP 8505. On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 10:44 PM, Jim Cotton jim.cot...@wmich.edu wrote: I need the red plastic digit cover/window [approximately 1 3/4 x 14 3/4] to complete the repair of a HP 5370 counter/timer. I don't care if it says 5370A or B. I assume that no major change occurred other than the unit identifier changing. Perhaps someone can correct me if I am wrong in making this assumption. It would be nice to get the bezel clip/strip too, however I suspect that they tend to disintegrate during removal of the red display cover. Does anyone have this available from a parts chassis in their lab? I would be happy to pay a reasonable price plus postage. I am located in Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA. Jim Cotton n8qoh ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Hi Putting The C on the feedback R in a positive gain setup is only going to take the roll off gain down to 1. Doing the same with an inverting amp or using a series R / cap to ground will drop the gain a lot more in the roll off region. I would worry about any resistor that's marked as 10K and reads 20K. It's likely noisy. A typical DBM has a loss of 5 to 7 db when not in compression. With a +7 to +10 dbm drive that should give you an output of 0 to 2 dbm . The mixer output should be in the .6 to .8 V p-p range into 50 ohms. You should get about twice that on the beat note running into a load 500 ohms. A gain of 20 should be plenty. That would give you .6 x 2 x 20 = 24 V p-p out of the amp. If you rf short the output of the mixer you may double the beat note again (total of 4X the 50 ohm value). Net would be a 2.4 to 3.2 V p-p beat note. Anything much over a gain of 10 would be a problem then. This is one of the cases where 2 X 2 probably does not = 4, so measurements are indeed in order. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 1:01 AM, Brian Kirby wrote: The values in the schematics are wrong for the op amp gain. The drawing was from an earlier drawing where I made a preamp to start checks on the mixers, and I sent it to you (Bruce G). Thats when you determined I did not have enough gain to get near the noise floor. The THAT1512/1646 ICs were ordered to make a new preamp for the future measurements on the mixers. When I use the scope and check the outputs of the IC, I have 20 volts peak to peak, sine-wave. I know from previous readings I see about 500 mv p-p out of the mixer. I went down to the bench and the resistors I used were still there (I bought several taped reels of Dale RN55D resistors when a local business went out). I used 294 ohms and 14.9 kilo-ohms, for a gain of 50 (the power rails are +/- 15 volts). Also not shown on the schematic is a 0.47 uF cap around the 14.9 kilo-ohm resistor. I think I was trying to limit the bandwidth to around 15 hertz. Also the resistor going between the op amp and the limiting diodes was marked 10K, its 20K. The diodes are 1N4148. Corrected drawing attached. This is what happens to time nuts who can only play on the weekend and stay up all nightand my employer just thinks I party too hard.for Monday mornings. Brian KD4FM Bruce Griffiths wrote: The LT1037 is shown with a gain of ~1690x, if this amplifier is used to amplify the beat frequency signal, it will saturate. Opamp recovery from saturation is poorly documented and may be very slow. It would be better to use some diodes in the amplifier feedback network to limit the large signal gain to 5x (so that the LT1037 remains stable as it isn't unity gain stable). This will ensure a somewhat faster recovery from overload as the LT1037 then avoids saturation and the opamp input stage remains in the linear region. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Assuming that the junction of the back to back diodes goes trough a chunk of coax to get to the counter: You are forming a low pass filter with the 10K resistor and the coax capacitance. The LT1037 is quite happy driving a 600 ohm load. You could easily drop the impedance at that point below 300 ohms. That should give you a faster edge into the counter. You also should check the slew rate performance of the 1037. You don't want the op amp to be slew rate limited. Bob On Feb 27, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Brian Kirby wrote: I am in the process of designing a DMTD system. As an experiment to do basic measurements on the chosen mixer, I used a capacitor (0.01 uF) in series to ground with a 47 ohm metal film resistor. Where the capacitor and resistor meets, another resistor is attached (390 ohms) that goes to ground. The idea is to provide a 50 ohm termination at 20 Mhz and a lighter termination at audio frequencies. I seen this is a NBS note and I can say, its a starting point for my experiments. This (my) system is designed for 10 Mhz, using a 10 hertz beat. A schematic is attached of what I am experimenting with at the moment. A HP5370B is the recording instrument. The noise floor from 1 days observations show 2x10-11 at 0.1 seconds, 2x10-12 at 1 sec, 5x10-13 at 10 sec, 6x10-14 at 100 sec, 7x10-15 at 1000 sec, and 7x10-16 at 10,000 secs. It will be interesting when the project is completed to see how much improvement there will be. As I understand (or learning..) mixer performance is the key to the DMTD system. It occurs to me that maybe a capacitor designed for 50 ohms at 20 mhz may be a better termination (for the IF port) for this mixer. A 16 pF capacitor is 50 ohms at 20 mhz, and for comparison at 10 hertz, it would be 100 meg-ohms, which would give maximum amplitude at 10 hertz. As I understand, a capacitor terminated mixer will give a triangle wave output, which is very beneficial to the design
Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? (Heatpipe cooler)
At 2:02 AM + 2/28/10, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote: Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 20:02:05 -0600 From: Ed Palmer ed_pal...@sasktel.net Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 4b89ce9d.4060...@sasktel.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Sorry, the pictures got lost. Let's try again. Ed Palmer wrote: What else is going to be in the rack? If your 1U enclosure is packed in tight between other devices there might be no cooling at all. You might need a fan to move some air. I don't know if you can find something like this, but I scavenged heat sinks from an old Compaq DL760 server that might fit your situation. Here's what the heat sink looks like. The aluminum plate is about 1/4 (6.4 mm) thick. Notice the heat pipes. Here's what it looks like on the LPRO. You'll have to drill holes in the plate to match the LPRO. It's not perfect, but it certainly does the job - particularly if you had a fan blowing through the fins. The total height is about 1.75 (45 mm). But remember, the more you cool the LPRO, the more power it will draw to keep itself warm so you don't want to overdo the cooling. Ed [snip] -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37469 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment.jpg -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33025 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment-0001.jpg The aluminum fin and copper pipe assembly integrated with the heatsink plate is most likely a heat pipe of some kind, as that's what Thermacore makes. It's a model 2644, from the nameplate, but no joy at the Thermacore.com website. Joe Gwinn ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? (Heatpipe cooler)
Hi A few words of caution here. I have run compact rubidiums for a number of years. It is *very* tempting to skimp on the heat sink. Cooling something that's heating it's self up sounds silly. Having tried the not much heat sink approach several times (I'm a slow learner). The rubidium does die fairly soon. Properly cooled they last for a long time. You need to get the baseplate below 40 C. Getting it below 30 C might be better, but that's impractical in most settings. The units dump around 10 watts of heat. The number will vary depending on the supply voltage, the exact baseplate temperature, and the exact model. If your normal room temperature is 20 C, 10 watts and a rise to 40 gives you 2 C/W. In a tightly packed rack, in the summer, at high supply voltage, the heat sink required can easily get to 1 C/W. My answer to that is to move the rubidium out of the rack or simply turn it off when things get that warm. Fans are a good way to improve the efficiency of any heat sink. The problem here is that rubidiums are sensitive to magnetic field. Having a device with a magnetic motor in it right next to one probably is a bad idea. If you put in fans, put them in the back of the case, and keep them away from the rubidium. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 10:55 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote: At 2:02 AM + 2/28/10, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote: Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 20:02:05 -0600 From: Ed Palmer ed_pal...@sasktel.net Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 4b89ce9d.4060...@sasktel.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Sorry, the pictures got lost. Let's try again. Ed Palmer wrote: What else is going to be in the rack? If your 1U enclosure is packed in tight between other devices there might be no cooling at all. You might need a fan to move some air. I don't know if you can find something like this, but I scavenged heat sinks from an old Compaq DL760 server that might fit your situation. Here's what the heat sink looks like. The aluminum plate is about 1/4 (6.4 mm) thick. Notice the heat pipes. Here's what it looks like on the LPRO. You'll have to drill holes in the plate to match the LPRO. It's not perfect, but it certainly does the job - particularly if you had a fan blowing through the fins. The total height is about 1.75 (45 mm). But remember, the more you cool the LPRO, the more power it will draw to keep itself warm so you don't want to overdo the cooling. Ed [snip] -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37469 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment.jpg -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33025 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment-0001.jpg The aluminum fin and copper pipe assembly integrated with the heatsink plate is most likely a heat pipe of some kind, as that's what Thermacore makes. It's a model 2644, from the nameplate, but no joy at the Thermacore.com website. Joe Gwinn ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO?
I have a Datum Rubidium Frequency Standard, which is a 1U aluminum chassis that is about 2mm thick. It contains a LPRO and a 24V/5V power supply with room to spare. I installed a Fury GPSDO and a small DC-DC converter in the same enclosure. The top cover is vented. The chassis stays slightly warm and the LPRO appears to work well even with moderate HVAC cycling (as long as the chassis is in the rack with the door closed). Scott On 02/27/2010 04:30 PM, Paul Boven wrote: Dear time-nuts, I've just bought a used LPRO-101 which should get a permanent home inside an instrument rack. I've also found a very nice 1U high metal case, and a fitting 24V 1U power supply - leaving plenty of room for a distribution amp and a microcontroller to log things like lamp and Xtal voltage. The rackmount enclosure is 1U high, and seems to be made of 1mm thick galvanized steel. Would that make a good enough baseplate for the LPRO? Would I need to do anything to improve the thermal contact between the rubidium oscillator and the baseplate, and if so, any recommendations on what to use there? The LPRO User's guide and integration guidelines recommend 2degC/W thermal resistance (for up to 50degC ambient), and using some special thermal tape that will probably be very hard to get at these days. If any of you has already put something like this together, I'd be very interested in your suggestions. Regards, Paul Boven - PE1NUT ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Looking for a 5370 red digit cover/window
I found them in the led section Try led filter??? On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 10:25 AM, J. L. Trantham jlt...@att.net wrote: I have a 5370B that is missing about half of it's red plastic digit cover/window and would like to repair it as well. Do you have a suggestion as to how to start searching Digi-Key and Mouser? Thanks, Joe -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of paul swed Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 9:09 AM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Looking for a 5370 red digit cover/window Jim Worse case if you do not find the replacement Digi-key and I would guess mouser caries the filter material for a reasonable price. (At least they did) I needed some to replace a missing piece on a HP 5360 and HP 8505. On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 10:44 PM, Jim Cotton jim.cot...@wmich.edu wrote: I need the red plastic digit cover/window [approximately 1 3/4 x 14 3/4] to complete the repair of a HP 5370 counter/timer. I don't care if it says 5370A or B. I assume that no major change occurred other than the unit identifier changing. Perhaps someone can correct me if I am wrong in making this assumption. It would be nice to get the bezel clip/strip too, however I suspect that they tend to disintegrate during removal of the red display cover. Does anyone have this available from a parts chassis in their lab? I would be happy to pay a reasonable price plus postage. I am located in Kalamazoo, Michigan, USA. Jim Cotton n8qoh ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? (Heatpipe cooler)
An approach is to put just the rb unit in say the basement. Its always cooler (at least mine is) The area I work in can get pretty warm in the summer if I am gone for a week This approach solves that problem pretty well On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 11:25 AM, Bob Camp li...@rtty.us wrote: Hi A few words of caution here. I have run compact rubidiums for a number of years. It is *very* tempting to skimp on the heat sink. Cooling something that's heating it's self up sounds silly. Having tried the not much heat sink approach several times (I'm a slow learner). The rubidium does die fairly soon. Properly cooled they last for a long time. You need to get the baseplate below 40 C. Getting it below 30 C might be better, but that's impractical in most settings. The units dump around 10 watts of heat. The number will vary depending on the supply voltage, the exact baseplate temperature, and the exact model. If your normal room temperature is 20 C, 10 watts and a rise to 40 gives you 2 C/W. In a tightly packed rack, in the summer, at high supply voltage, the heat sink required can easily get to 1 C/W. My answer to that is to move the rubidium out of the rack or simply turn it off when things get that warm. Fans are a good way to improve the efficiency of any heat sink. The problem here is that rubidiums are sensitive to magnetic field. Having a device with a magnetic motor in it right next to one probably is a bad idea. If you put in fans, put them in the back of the case, and keep them away from the rubidium. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 10:55 AM, Joe Gwinn wrote: At 2:02 AM + 2/28/10, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote: Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 20:02:05 -0600 From: Ed Palmer ed_pal...@sasktel.net Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 4b89ce9d.4060...@sasktel.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Sorry, the pictures got lost. Let's try again. Ed Palmer wrote: What else is going to be in the rack? If your 1U enclosure is packed in tight between other devices there might be no cooling at all. You might need a fan to move some air. I don't know if you can find something like this, but I scavenged heat sinks from an old Compaq DL760 server that might fit your situation. Here's what the heat sink looks like. The aluminum plate is about 1/4 (6.4 mm) thick. Notice the heat pipes. Here's what it looks like on the LPRO. You'll have to drill holes in the plate to match the LPRO. It's not perfect, but it certainly does the job - particularly if you had a fan blowing through the fins. The total height is about 1.75 (45 mm). But remember, the more you cool the LPRO, the more power it will draw to keep itself warm so you don't want to overdo the cooling. Ed [snip] -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37469 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment.jpg -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33025 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment-0001.jpg The aluminum fin and copper pipe assembly integrated with the heatsink plate is most likely a heat pipe of some kind, as that's what Thermacore makes. It's a model 2644, from the nameplate, but no joy at the Thermacore.com website. Joe Gwinn ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? (Heatpipe cooler)
Joe Gwinn wrote: At 2:02 AM + 2/28/10, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote: Date: Sat, 27 Feb 2010 20:02:05 -0600 From: Ed Palmer ed_pal...@sasktel.net Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rack-mounting an LPRO? To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 4b89ce9d.4060...@sasktel.net Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1; Format=flowed Sorry, the pictures got lost. Let's try again. Ed Palmer wrote: What else is going to be in the rack? If your 1U enclosure is packed in tight between other devices there might be no cooling at all. You might need a fan to move some air. I don't know if you can find something like this, but I scavenged heat sinks from an old Compaq DL760 server that might fit your situation. Here's what the heat sink looks like. The aluminum plate is about 1/4 (6.4 mm) thick. Notice the heat pipes. Here's what it looks like on the LPRO. You'll have to drill holes in the plate to match the LPRO. It's not perfect, but it certainly does the job - particularly if you had a fan blowing through the fins. The total height is about 1.75 (45 mm). But remember, the more you cool the LPRO, the more power it will draw to keep itself warm so you don't want to overdo the cooling. Ed [snip] -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 37469 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment.jpg -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33025 bytes Desc: not available URL: http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100227/9f21a5a8/attachment-0001.jpg The aluminum fin and copper pipe assembly integrated with the heatsink plate is most likely a heat pipe of some kind, as that's what Thermacore makes. It's a model 2644, from the nameplate, but no joy at the Thermacore.com website. Joe Gwinn If you want to find that heatsink, you'll probably have better luck with the Compaq part # which is 190416-002 or just look for a used Xeon processor that has that heat sink on it. Note that different servers used different heat sinks so you have to see a picture. Right now there are more than 20 CPUs with this heatsink on auction at the site we all love to hate. Ed ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] DIY frequency counter help (Gerard PG5G)
Gerard, By now you've no doubt had more offers to assist than you need, and in particular from far more local enthusiasts than me. However, if I can help answer any particular points, I would be pleased to do so. My reason for suggesting this is that I have available a Pendulum CNT-90 counter, plus several very good references, both traceable and high stability (though as you can imagine often not both at once!) I've designed my own counters in the past, but nothing on the scale of yours. Well done! 73, Murray ZL1BPU ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] DIY Frequency Counter
Gerard, I just read your post about your DIY counter and asking for help. I'm not sure when you actually wrote it. I'm based in Chelmsford Essex and can give you some help. I have multiple frequency standards as well as 4 x SR620 timer counters. Let me know if I can be of help. Regards Martyn ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
My simulations indicate that terminating the Mixer IF port in an RF short (with both RF and LO ports saturated) increases the beat frequency zero crossing slope by more than a factor of 2 (exact value depends on mixer component characteristics) but doesnt significantly increase the beat frequency amplitude over that with a high value resistive termination. To achieve this the IF port termination impedance needs to be high at the beat frequency and its significant harmonics. The value above which the impedance is considered high depends on mixer details such as transformer turns ratio, RF source impedance, diode characteristics and RF input levels, etc. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Putting The C on the feedback R in a positive gain setup is only going to take the roll off gain down to 1. Doing the same with an inverting amp or using a series R / cap to ground will drop the gain a lot more in the roll off region. I would worry about any resistor that's marked as 10K and reads 20K. It's likely noisy. A typical DBM has a loss of 5 to 7 db when not in compression. With a +7 to +10 dbm drive that should give you an output of 0 to 2 dbm . The mixer output should be in the .6 to .8 V p-p range into 50 ohms. You should get about twice that on the beat note running into a load 500 ohms. A gain of 20 should be plenty. That would give you .6 x 2 x 20 = 24 V p-p out of the amp. If you rf short the output of the mixer you may double the beat note again (total of 4X the 50 ohm value). Net would be a 2.4 to 3.2 V p-p beat note. Anything much over a gain of 10 would be a problem then. This is one of the cases where 2 X 2 probably does not = 4, so measurements are indeed in order. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 1:01 AM, Brian Kirby wrote: The values in the schematics are wrong for the op amp gain. The drawing was from an earlier drawing where I made a preamp to start checks on the mixers, and I sent it to you (Bruce G). Thats when you determined I did not have enough gain to get near the noise floor. The THAT1512/1646 ICs were ordered to make a new preamp for the future measurements on the mixers. When I use the scope and check the outputs of the IC, I have 20 volts peak to peak, sine-wave. I know from previous readings I see about 500 mv p-p out of the mixer. I went down to the bench and the resistors I used were still there (I bought several taped reels of Dale RN55D resistors when a local business went out). I used 294 ohms and 14.9 kilo-ohms, for a gain of 50 (the power rails are +/- 15 volts). Also not shown on the schematic is a 0.47 uF cap around the 14.9 kilo-ohm resistor. I think I was trying to limit the bandwidth to around 15 hertz. Also the resistor going between the op amp and the limiting diodes was marked 10K, its 20K. The diodes are 1N4148. Corrected drawing attached. This is what happens to time nuts who can only play on the weekend and stay up all nightand my employer just thinks I party too hard.for Monday mornings. Brian KD4FM Bruce Griffiths wrote: The LT1037 is shown with a gain of ~1690x, if this amplifier is used to amplify the beat frequency signal, it will saturate. Opamp recovery from saturation is poorly documented and may be very slow. It would be better to use some diodes in the amplifier feedback network to limit the large signal gain to 5x (so that the LT1037 remains stable as it isn't unity gain stable). This will ensure a somewhat faster recovery from overload as the LT1037 then avoids saturation and the opamp input stage remains in the linear region. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Assuming that the junction of the back to back diodes goes trough a chunk of coax to get to the counter: You are forming a low pass filter with the 10K resistor and the coax capacitance. The LT1037 is quite happy driving a 600 ohm load. You could easily drop the impedance at that point below 300 ohms. That should give you a faster edge into the counter. You also should check the slew rate performance of the 1037. You don't want the op amp to be slew rate limited. Bob On Feb 27, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Brian Kirby wrote: I am in the process of designing a DMTD system. As an experiment to do basic measurements on the chosen mixer, I used a capacitor (0.01 uF) in series to ground with a 47 ohm metal film resistor. Where the capacitor and resistor meets, another resistor is attached (390 ohms) that goes to ground. The idea is to provide a 50 ohm termination at 20 Mhz and a lighter termination at audio frequencies. I seen this is a NBS note and I can say, its a starting point for my experiments. This (my) system is designed for 10 Mhz, using a 10 hertz beat. A schematic is attached of what I am experimenting with at the moment. A HP5370B is the recording instrument. The noise floor from 1 days observations show 2x10-11 at 0.1 seconds, 2x10-12 at 1 sec, 5x10-13 at 10 sec, 6x10-14 at 100 sec,
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs
Don Latham wrote: I've fixed shafts like this carefully with plastic swizzle sticks and super glue. Did I say carefully? a little dab'll do ya... Don It is a tricky business. The 5370A I got a while back, had what was left of the shaft glued into the bushing by an earlier repair attempt. The shaft plastic is not one that fuses easily (polyethylene maybe). I managed to repair mine, but the process I used took many hours and I wouldn't recommend it. I removed the pot and was able to disassemble it. I then drilled a very small hole down the center axis of the shaft and used a section of very small screw rod to reinforce the joint. That combined with glue has held up so far. For the repair, I made a tool to align the drill to the shaft. The pot is not intended to come apart and is small. An evil job. I thought the 5370B had gone to a steel-shaft version of these pots. Maybe it depends on vintage. - Original Message - From: Mark Sims hol...@hotmail.com To: time-nuts@febo.com Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 10:10 PM Subject: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs If it's the one that I think it is... look closely at the photo. The shafts on two of the pots are sheared off at the panel. These are the display update control and the external arming level control. These were custom HP pots with a funky (and delicate) switch. They had brittle plastic shafts.Gee, how do I know this... could it be that a large percentage of the 5370's for sale have the same defect? Luckily those controls are not too critical for normal operation. They can be replaced with regular (switchless) pots if you jumper the switch pads correctly. Be careful, there were two different layouts to those controls. -- So exactly how did you know that I bought a (cheap) 5370B a few hours ago on the e-place ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help
Gerard, Gerard PG5G wrote: Hello all, First post here, so I'll start with a quick introduction. I trained as an electronic engineer but don't work in that field any more, which has given me the appetite back to do some electronic engineering as a hobby. I have been a licensed ham for over 25 years (more than 60% of my life I realised the other day) and used to be rather active on HF as PA3DQW. At the moment I live in the UK where I am licensed as M0AIU. I recently designed and build a frequency counter and I need some help with verifying its performance. I believe it gives me 11 digits in 1 second. I say believe because I have not got the hardware to verify this. At the moment my assumption is based on calculations and limited testing with the equipment available to me. My counter is a continuous time stamping reciprocal counter. I implemented this as a USB powered device, with the hardware taking the time stamps and sending it over USB to a windows PC. Some software written in C++ takes care of analysing the data. The hardware takes 5000 time stamps per second using a high speed TDC. The hardware is a single PCB measuring about 50 by 80 mm. it requires an external 10MHz reference and apart from using this as the time base it also uses this for self-calibration of the TDC. The unit requires no further calibration. The PC software takes these time stamps and the associated counts and uses regression to calculate the slope. This slope represents the frequency of the input signal. I am sure people on here are familiar with the counters made by Pendulum, and I have to confess that their marketing material was helpful in putting this thing together. Since the hardware is true zero dead time, the final capabilities of this counter are determined by software. At the moment I can simultaneously display the input at multiple gate times (see the attached screen shot). For gate times over 1 second I have the option to use overlapping gates, so that the display gets updated every second. Because there is no dead time I can also calculate Allan Deviation. The two displays at the bottom of the page show both normal and overlapping Allan deviation at tau=10s. I am still working on the software to do this at multiple tau in real time and display it as a graph and a table. So, after this lengthy introduction here is my request for some assistance. Is there somebody on the list who can assist me in verifying the performance of this frequency counter? Ideally somebody with access to two highly stable and known frequency sources. I can send the hardware by mail, but if there happens to be somebody with this kind of gear not too far from where I am (50 north of London) I will travel. In exchange you get to keep the hardware and will be supplied with whatever software I come up with. Would you consider to disclose your architecture somewhat more? Could you output time and event values from the time-stamping? Would allow us to do some off-line processing independently. Could you try different frequencies/amplitudes (would be good for establishing the slew-rate dependency, i.e. internal noise). Measure period jitter and plot for different slew-rates (frequency and amplitude), use shortest tau possible. Could you hook up the reference clock with different lengths of coax cables. This would assist in measure the background noise and the different lengths of cables would allow some indication of interpolator non-linearity and input cross-talk. As has already been discussed, software can do a lot for improving the reading, but one needs to be careful in details or else completely different measures results and they does not behave correctly. ADEV and friends wants the raw time-samples. Frequency or period estimation benefits from improved estimators, but then that is not useful for ADEV and friends, so it is a dead end for further processing except presentation level. I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. However, starting your verify exercise with a fellow time-nut excursion yourself should be a nice exercise that I recommend regardless. You should have several friendly-minded in UK. Cheers, Magnus ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer 50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-3 3.512.969.98 RPD-1 #117.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #217.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #1 5.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #2 5.826 4.406 10.33 10534A 5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH 8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H 7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3 typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1 500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MH a 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1H a 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The terminations are not precise, but they are identical in all cases. A more purely inductive load could be constructed. The parts are just what I had lying around. 4) No strange bumps or peaks were detected in the beat notes of any of the mixers. Never seen one, regardless of what NIST says they have seen. 5) Eventually I'll go back and check the RPD's with 500 ohms. I stuck with 50 simply to keep everything as same same as I could. 6) Sweeping the beat note from 100 Hz to 1 Hz showed no change in the output amplitude. 7) Contrary to my previous post the peak-peak output voltages are within 10% for all terminations. Slope and peak to peak are different things. 8) All mixers are running into essentially an open circuit load at audio. The scope input is 1 M ohm and the capacitive reactances are 100 K ohms. 9) No attempt was made to set up directional couplers and figure out what the real input to the mixers actually is. Ditto on playing with series resistors to improve the match. So there it is. Anybody else got some data to compare to. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 3:53 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: My simulations indicate that terminating the Mixer IF port in an RF short (with both RF and LO ports saturated) increases the beat frequency zero crossing slope by more than a factor of 2 (exact value depends on mixer component characteristics) but doesnt significantly increase the beat frequency amplitude over that with a high value resistive termination. To achieve this the IF port termination impedance needs to be high at the beat frequency and its significant harmonics. The value above which the impedance is considered high depends on mixer details such as transformer turns ratio, RF source impedance, diode characteristics and RF input levels, etc. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Putting The C on the feedback R in a positive gain setup is only going to take the roll off gain down to 1. Doing the same with an inverting amp or using a series R / cap to ground will drop the gain a lot more in the roll off region. I would worry about any resistor that's marked as 10K and reads 20K. It's likely noisy. A typical DBM has a loss of 5 to 7 db when not in compression. With a +7 to +10 dbm drive that should give you an
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Hi Left out: All the data was taken with a beat note of roughly 10.2 Hz Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 8:11 PM, Bob Camp wrote: Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer 50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-3 3.512.969.98 RPD-1 #1 17.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #2 17.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #1 5.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #2 5.826 4.406 10.33 10534A5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3 typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1 500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MHa 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1Ha 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The terminations are not precise, but they are identical in all cases. A more purely inductive load could be constructed. The parts are just what I had lying around. 4) No strange bumps or peaks were detected in the beat notes of any of the mixers. Never seen one, regardless of what NIST says they have seen. 5) Eventually I'll go back and check the RPD's with 500 ohms. I stuck with 50 simply to keep everything as same same as I could. 6) Sweeping the beat note from 100 Hz to 1 Hz showed no change in the output amplitude. 7) Contrary to my previous post the peak-peak output voltages are within 10% for all terminations. Slope and peak to peak are different things. 8) All mixers are running into essentially an open circuit load at audio. The scope input is 1 M ohm and the capacitive reactances are 100 K ohms. 9) No attempt was made to set up directional couplers and figure out what the real input to the mixers actually is. Ditto on playing with series resistors to improve the match. So there it is. Anybody else got some data to compare to. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 3:53 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: My simulations indicate that terminating the Mixer IF port in an RF short (with both RF and LO ports saturated) increases the beat frequency zero crossing slope by more than a factor of 2 (exact value depends on mixer component characteristics) but doesnt significantly increase the beat frequency amplitude over that with a high value resistive termination. To achieve this the IF port termination impedance needs to be high at the beat frequency and its significant harmonics. The value above which the impedance is considered high depends on mixer details such as transformer turns ratio, RF source impedance, diode characteristics and RF input levels, etc. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Putting The C on the feedback R in a positive gain setup is only going to take the roll off gain down to 1. Doing the same with an inverting amp or using a series R / cap to ground will drop the gain a lot more
[time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
The results for the RPD-1's are about what I expected: there's little difference in slope between either a 50 ohm +47nF termination or a 47nF termination. The slopes are about 6.5x greater than the values given by Minicircuits. (8mv/degree = 2.88V/cycle). I assume that they use 500 ohms connected directly to ground not via a capacitor. So there's something in NISTs claims of improved slope at least for the RPD-1. I suspect that NISTs original 50 ohm terminations were actually 50 ohms direct to ground not via a capacitor. Using a series capacitor increases the termination impedance at the beat frequency substantially over that when the resistor is connected directly to ground. Since its is also claimed by NIST and others that reactive termination reduces the noise, one also needs to measure the output noise spectral density for the various IF port terminations. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer 50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-3 3.512.969.98 RPD-1 #117.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #217.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #1 5.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #2 5.826 4.406 10.33 10534A 5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH 8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H 7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3 typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1 500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MH a 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1H a 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The terminations are not precise, but they are identical in all cases. A more purely inductive load could be constructed. The parts are just what I had lying around. 4) No strange bumps or peaks were detected in the beat notes of any of the mixers. Never seen one, regardless of what NIST says they have seen. 5) Eventually I'll go back and check the RPD's with 500 ohms. I stuck with 50 simply to keep everything as same same as I could. 6) Sweeping the beat note from 100 Hz to 1 Hz showed no change in the output amplitude. 7) Contrary to my previous post the peak-peak output voltages are within 10% for all terminations. Slope and peak to peak are different things. 8) All mixers are running into essentially an open circuit load at audio. The scope input is 1 M ohm and the capacitive reactances are100 K ohms. 9) No attempt was made to set up directional couplers and figure out what the real input to the mixers actually is. Ditto on playing with series resistors to improve the match. So there it is. Anybody else got some data to compare to. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 3:53 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: My simulations indicate that terminating the Mixer IF port in an RF short (with both RF and LO ports saturated) increases the beat frequency zero crossing slope by more than a factor of 2 (exact value depends on mixer component characteristics) but doesnt
Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
Bill Hawkins wrote: Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. Gas = rubidium vapour?? Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
Whack! (sound of hand hitting forehead) Gas must be Ru and Cs. How do you run your pneumatic clocks? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Bill Hawkins [mailto:b...@iaxs.net] Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:34 PM To: 'Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement'; 'p...@b737.co.uk' Subject: Rock, gas, and air Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
A while back we had a thread about Paris and a network of air synced clocks ? Stanley - Original Message From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 7:41:20 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air Bill Hawkins wrote: Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. Gas = rubidium vapour?? Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Hi The Minicircuits guys claim 800 to 1000 mv / radian. In my units that would be 5 to 6.2 volts per cycle. I believe I'm getting ~ 3 X that mostly from the open circuit termination at audio. It's certainly something I could head back downstairs and check. The 10% increase in slope between resistive and capacitive termination has never really been enough with the RPD-1 to make it seem to be worth it. It's certainly worth it with a ZAD-3. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at g8:39 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: The results for the RPD-1's are about what I expected: there's little difference in slope between either a 50 ohm +47nF termination or a 47nF termination. The slopes are about 6.5x greater than the values given by Minicircuits. (8mv/degree = 2.88V/cycle). I assume that they use 500 ohms connected directly to ground not via a capacitor. So there's something in NISTs claims of improved slope at least for the RPD-1. I suspect that NISTs original 50 ohm terminations were actually 50 ohms direct to ground not via a capacitor. Using a series capacitor increases the termination impedance at the beat frequency substantially over that when the resistor is connected directly to ground. Since its is also claimed by NIST and others that reactive termination reduces the noise, one also needs to measure the output noise spectral density for the various IF port terminations. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-33.512.969.98 RPD-1 #1 17.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #2 17.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #15.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #25.826 4.406 10.33 10534A 5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH 8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H 7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MH a 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1H a 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The terminations are not precise, but they are identical in all cases. A more purely inductive load could be constructed. The parts are just what I had lying around. 4) No strange bumps or peaks were detected in the beat notes of any of the mixers. Never seen one, regardless of what NIST says they have seen. 5) Eventually I'll go back and check the RPD's with 500 ohms. I stuck with 50 simply to keep everything as same same as I could. 6) Sweeping the beat note from 100 Hz to 1 Hz showed no change in the output amplitude. 7) Contrary to my previous post the peak-peak output voltages are within 10% for all terminations. Slope and peak to peak are different things. 8) All mixers are running into essentially an open circuit load at audio.
Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
Hi The winds in Sweden change directions in a *very* predictable fashion? Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 8:50 PM, Stanley Reynolds wrote: A while back we had a thread about Paris and a network of air synced clocks ? Stanley - Original Message From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 7:41:20 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air Bill Hawkins wrote: Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. Gas = rubidium vapour?? Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
[time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air
Probably hot air... Murray -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf Of time-nuts-requ...@febo.com Sent: Monday, 1 March 2010 2:56 p.m. To: time-nuts@febo.com Subject: time-nuts Digest, Vol 68, Issue 3 Send time-nuts mailing list submissions to time-nuts@febo.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to time-nuts-requ...@febo.com You can reach the person managing the list at time-nuts-ow...@febo.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of time-nuts digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Rock, gas, and air (Bruce Griffiths) 2. Re: Rock, gas, and air (Bill Hawkins) 3. Re: Rock, gas, and air (Stanley Reynolds) 4. Re: DMTD Mixer Terminations (Bob Camp) 5. Re: Rock, gas, and air (Bob Camp) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 14:41:20 +1300 From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 4b8b1b40.8030...@xtra.co.nz Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Bill Hawkins wrote: Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. Gas = rubidium vapour?? Bruce -- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 19:47:55 -0600 From: Bill Hawkins b...@iaxs.net Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air To: 'Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement' time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 44f1d726cc5f42f99145fe8cb0f3f...@cyrus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Whack! (sound of hand hitting forehead) Gas must be Ru and Cs. How do you run your pneumatic clocks? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Bill Hawkins [mailto:b...@iaxs.net] Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:34 PM To: 'Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement'; 'p...@b737.co.uk' Subject: Rock, gas, and air Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. -- Message: 3 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 17:50:22 -0800 (PST) From: Stanley Reynolds stanley_reyno...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 380617.65743...@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 A while back we had a thread about Paris and a network of air synced clocks ? Stanley - Original Message From: Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Sent: Sun, February 28, 2010 7:41:20 PM Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Rock, gas, and air Bill Hawkins wrote: Rock I take to be crystal. How about gas and air? Bill Hawkins -Original Message- From: Magnus Danielson Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 5:15 PM To: p...@b737.co.uk; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] My DIY frequency counter and a request for help --%-- I think I have a fairly good setup including bunches of rock, gas and air clocks alongside a fair set of counters, so I could probably do some testing, but I am located over in Sweden. ? ? Gas = rubidium vapour?? Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. -- Message: 4 Date: Sun, 28 Feb 2010 20:54:53 -0500 From: Bob Camp li...@rtty.us Subject: Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com Message-ID: 43be29b2-dcb6-43e2-a23b-7ad1deb6b...@rtty.us Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi The
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Hi Ok, RPD-1 #1 puts out 9.97 volts into a 500 ohm resistor to ground termination (no blocking capacitor). That's still well above the catalog spec. I'm running 25% more voltage than their 7 dbm. That still does not fully explain what I'm seeing. The scope does indeed indicate 15 volts when I hook it to a 15 volt supply. Given the number of broken pieces of test gear I seem to own that was worth checking. ... Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Bob Camp wrote: Hi The Minicircuits guys claim 800 to 1000 mv / radian. In my units that would be 5 to 6.2 volts per cycle. I believe I'm getting ~ 3 X that mostly from the open circuit termination at audio. It's certainly something I could head back downstairs and check. The 10% increase in slope between resistive and capacitive termination has never really been enough with the RPD-1 to make it seem to be worth it. It's certainly worth it with a ZAD-3. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at g8:39 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: The results for the RPD-1's are about what I expected: there's little difference in slope between either a 50 ohm +47nF termination or a 47nF termination. The slopes are about 6.5x greater than the values given by Minicircuits. (8mv/degree = 2.88V/cycle). I assume that they use 500 ohms connected directly to ground not via a capacitor. So there's something in NISTs claims of improved slope at least for the RPD-1. I suspect that NISTs original 50 ohm terminations were actually 50 ohms direct to ground not via a capacitor. Using a series capacitor increases the termination impedance at the beat frequency substantially over that when the resistor is connected directly to ground. Since its is also claimed by NIST and others that reactive termination reduces the noise, one also needs to measure the output noise spectral density for the various IF port terminations. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer 50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-3 3.512.969.98 RPD-1 #117.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #217.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #1 5.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #2 5.826 4.406 10.33 10534A 5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH 8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H 7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3 typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1 500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MH a 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1H a 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The terminations are not precise, but they are identical in all cases. A more purely inductive load could be constructed. The parts are just what I had lying around. 4) No strange bumps or peaks were detected in the beat notes of any of the mixers. Never seen one, regardless of what
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
Today I have been trying to drive a 5370B directly from a TADD-2, with little luck (other HP freq counters seem to work OK). I was about to ask about it on this list, but noticed this thread. I guess this could explain why I am getting erroneous, random readings? Dave On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 4:01 PM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The attached excerpts from the 5370A and 5370B manuals indicate that for best performance, that the common practice of driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs directly from a 5V CMOS logic signal is a bad idea. For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 1V swing with the threshold set to 0.5V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +1.4V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 2V swing with the threshold set to 1V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +3.5V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs
What threshold are you using? If you leave it set to preset/0 volts, you may find that crosstalk between outputs on the TADD-2 cause false triggering. I usually use the divide-by-10 setting with the threshold set to about 0.25V. It also helps to remove the jumpers from any outputs on the TADD-2 you aren't using. -- john, KE5FX -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on Behalf Of Dave hartzell Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:28 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs Today I have been trying to drive a 5370B directly from a TADD-2, with little luck (other HP freq counters seem to work OK). I was about to ask about it on this list, but noticed this thread. I guess this could explain why I am getting erroneous, random readings? Dave On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 4:01 PM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The attached excerpts from the 5370A and 5370B manuals indicate that for best performance, that the common practice of driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs directly from a 5V CMOS logic signal is a bad idea. For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 1V swing with the threshold set to 0.5V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +1.4V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 2V swing with the threshold set to 1V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +3.5V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
The TADD-2 output drivers exhibit significant ringing and crosstalk due to ground and Vcc bounce. To minimise crosstalk dedicate each 74AC04 output device to a single frequency and load. Because of the ringing setting the trigger threshold is more critical than usual. No damage occurs when driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs with 5V logic levels however various protection diodes will turn on and the preamp input stage becomes nonlinear. Bruce Dave hartzell wrote: Today I have been trying to drive a 5370B directly from a TADD-2, with little luck (other HP freq counters seem to work OK). I was about to ask about it on this list, but noticed this thread. I guess this could explain why I am getting erroneous, random readings? Dave On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 4:01 PM, Bruce Griffithsbruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The attached excerpts from the 5370A and 5370B manuals indicate that for best performance, that the common practice of driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs directly from a 5V CMOS logic signal is a bad idea. For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 1V swing with the threshold set to 0.5V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +1.4V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 2V swing with the threshold set to 1V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +3.5V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] DMTD Mixer Terminations
Unless Minicircuits have made significant changes to the RPD-1 there has to be some kind of calibration error or an as yet poorly understood effect. Did you try the load and filter shown in the attached application note? Replicating Minicircuits measurements within 10% or so is probably necessary to correctly assess the effect of various termination networks. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Ok, RPD-1 #1 puts out 9.97 volts into a 500 ohm resistor to ground termination (no blocking capacitor). That's still well above the catalog spec. I'm running 25% more voltage than their 7 dbm. That still does not fully explain what I'm seeing. The scope does indeed indicate 15 volts when I hook it to a 15 volt supply. Given the number of broken pieces of test gear I seem to own that was worth checking. ... Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at 8:54 PM, Bob Camp wrote: Hi The Minicircuits guys claim 800 to 1000 mv / radian. In my units that would be 5 to 6.2 volts per cycle. I believe I'm getting ~ 3 X that mostly from the open circuit termination at audio. It's certainly something I could head back downstairs and check. The 10% increase in slope between resistive and capacitive termination has never really been enough with the RPD-1 to make it seem to be worth it. It's certainly worth it with a ZAD-3. Bob On Feb 28, 2010, at g8:39 PM, Bruce Griffiths wrote: The results for the RPD-1's are about what I expected: there's little difference in slope between either a 50 ohm +47nF termination or a 47nF termination. The slopes are about 6.5x greater than the values given by Minicircuits. (8mv/degree = 2.88V/cycle). I assume that they use 500 ohms connected directly to ground not via a capacitor. So there's something in NISTs claims of improved slope at least for the RPD-1. I suspect that NISTs original 50 ohm terminations were actually 50 ohms direct to ground not via a capacitor. Using a series capacitor increases the termination impedance at the beat frequency substantially over that when the resistor is connected directly to ground. Since its is also claimed by NIST and others that reactive termination reduces the noise, one also needs to measure the output noise spectral density for the various IF port terminations. Bruce Bob Camp wrote: Hi Here's some data: The setup is very simple: Two oscillators at 10 MHz driving common base / 50 ohm output buffers. The buffers ensure that the source impedance is really 50 ohms. One puts out 9.3 dbm the other 9.5 dbm. They can be tuned for a beat note in the 0 to 100 Hz range. The basic mixer termination filter is a pair cascaded / identical L networks. Both have 10 uh in the series leg and 0.047 uf to ground in the shunt leg. The audio end of the filter hooks straight into a digitizing scope. The termination options for the mixer are: 1) inductive - just running into the 10 uh of the first L network. 2) 50 ohms - drop a 57 ohm in series with 0.047 from the mixer output to ground 3) Capacitive - 0.047 uf to ground at the mixer output. The data is computed from the time to cross the center 50% of the output waveform. If the output is 1V p-p then the data would cover the range -.25 to +.25 volts. I've normalized it to volts / cycle. Divide by 2* pi if you want to get volts / radian. mixer 50 ohms inductive capacitive ZAD-3 3.512.969.98 RPD-1 #117.77 10.50 18.85 RPD-1 #217.40 10.058 18.53 10514A #1 5.796 4.396 10.31 10514A #2 5.826 4.406 10.33 10534A 5.402 4.078 10.88 ZP3-MH 8.065.8111.28 ZAD-1H 7.735.939.38 Since not everybody has memorized mixer catalogs: ZAD-3 typical minicircuits 7 to 10 dbm mixer RPD-1 500 ohm output phase detector (50 ohms is the wrong termination for it) 10514, 10534 HP products from a ways back ZP3-MH a 13 dbm class mixer, 9 dbm should be under driving it ZAD-1H a 17 dbm class mixer, should be 8 db under driven. Bottom line - Capacitive termination helps some parts more than others. The RPD-1 does not get a real big boost, but the ZAD-1 certainly does. There's no real way to know what it's going to do without checking your mixer under your conditions. A few other notes: 1) The measurement technique slightly under states the slope for the 50 ohm case. Since the beat note is approximately a sine wave in all cases, the true slope at zero is a bit higher than this technique indicates. 2) The Inductive termination gives the widest linear region. The output is very nearly an ideal triangle wave. It would make the best wide range phase detector. 3) The
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs
Thanks for the tips John. Do you use the 50 ohm or 1M ohm settings with the TADD-2? Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 7:42 PM, John Miles jmi...@pop.net wrote: What threshold are you using? If you leave it set to preset/0 volts, you may find that crosstalk between outputs on the TADD-2 cause false triggering. I usually use the divide-by-10 setting with the threshold set to about 0.25V. It also helps to remove the jumpers from any outputs on the TADD-2 you aren't using. -- john, KE5FX -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on Behalf Of Dave hartzell Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:28 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs Today I have been trying to drive a 5370B directly from a TADD-2, with little luck (other HP freq counters seem to work OK). I was about to ask about it on this list, but noticed this thread. I guess this could explain why I am getting erroneous, random readings? Dave On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 4:01 PM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The attached excerpts from the 5370A and 5370B manuals indicate that for best performance, that the common practice of driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs directly from a 5V CMOS logic signal is a bad idea. For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 1V swing with the threshold set to 0.5V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +1.4V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 2V swing with the threshold set to 1V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +3.5V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
Thanks for the tips Bruce. Is there a better version of the 74AC04? It sounds like I should also use an attenuator, perhaps 3 - 10 dB... Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 7:43 PM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The TADD-2 output drivers exhibit significant ringing and crosstalk due to ground and Vcc bounce. To minimise crosstalk dedicate each 74AC04 output device to a single frequency and load. Because of the ringing setting the trigger threshold is more critical than usual. No damage occurs when driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs with 5V logic levels however various protection diodes will turn on and the preamp input stage becomes nonlinear. Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving5370A/Binputs
If you drive it from 50-ohm coax, you need to use the 50-ohm setting, or the resulting reflections may cause trouble. The 74AC04s in the TADD-2 are happy enough driving 50 ohms, so that's the best way to go. -- john, KE5FX -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on Behalf Of Dave hartzell Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 8:05 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving5370A/Binputs Thanks for the tips John. Do you use the 50 ohm or 1M ohm settings with the TADD-2? Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 7:42 PM, John Miles jmi...@pop.net wrote: What threshold are you using? If you leave it set to preset/0 volts, you may find that crosstalk between outputs on the TADD-2 cause false triggering. I usually use the divide-by-10 setting with the threshold set to about 0.25V. It also helps to remove the jumpers from any outputs on the TADD-2 you aren't using. -- john, KE5FX -Original Message- From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com]on Behalf Of Dave hartzell Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:28 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/Binputs Today I have been trying to drive a 5370B directly from a TADD-2, with little luck (other HP freq counters seem to work OK). I was about to ask about it on this list, but noticed this thread. I guess this could explain why I am getting erroneous, random readings? Dave On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 4:01 PM, Bruce Griffiths bruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The attached excerpts from the 5370A and 5370B manuals indicate that for best performance, that the common practice of driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs directly from a 5V CMOS logic signal is a bad idea. For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 1V swing with the threshold set to 0.5V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +1.4V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). For the 5370A attenuating the 5V CMOS signal to a 2V swing with the threshold set to 1V is close to optimum. An input signal with limits of 0V and +3.5V with a trigger threshold of 0.7V is the maximum usable (for high performance). An input signal with limits of 0V and +0.3V with a trigger threshold of 0.15V is the minimum usable (for high performance). Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
Re: [time-nuts] Achieving maximum performance when driving 5370A/B inputs
You could substitute a 74AHC04 which has better control of ground and Vcc bounce. At least they are specified. At least a 3dB attenuator with a 5370B. at least 11dB with a 5370A. Or just use the built in 20dB (10x) attenuator. Bruce Dave hartzell wrote: Thanks for the tips Bruce. Is there a better version of the 74AC04? It sounds like I should also use an attenuator, perhaps 3 - 10 dB... Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 7:43 PM, Bruce Griffithsbruce.griffi...@xtra.co.nz wrote: The TADD-2 output drivers exhibit significant ringing and crosstalk due to ground and Vcc bounce. To minimise crosstalk dedicate each 74AC04 output device to a single frequency and load. Because of the ringing setting the trigger threshold is more critical than usual. No damage occurs when driving the 5370A/B 1x inputs with 5V logic levels however various protection diodes will turn on and the preamp input stage becomes nonlinear. Bruce ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there. ___ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.