Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-31 Thread Magnus Danielson

Paul,

gas? What gas?

what soft plastic paint remover?

A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.

Cheers,
Magnus

On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:

Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
















On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Campli...@rtty.us  wrote:


Hi

If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be  400 Hz off
frequency.

Bob

On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyae...@telight.com  wrote:


Paul,

If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few

years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.


Ed

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-31 Thread Arnold Tibus
Magnus,

I am sure he does mean gasoline, petrol, benzine. I apply it quite often
when
other alcohols dont work e.g. spiritus (ethanol). But beware to apply
only the
clean issue which is specially sold for this purpose or that one sold in
small metal cans for the good old cigarette lighters. It is always wise
to make
a little test before to be sure it does not attack the surface or parts
around.
To prevent explosions do it in a good ventilated area or beven better
outside
closed rooms (garden).

Good luck,

Arnold

Am 31.07.2013 10:51, schrieb Magnus Danielson:
 Paul,

 gas? What gas?

 what soft plastic paint remover?

 A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.

 Cheers,
 Magnus

 On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
 Hello to the group.
 As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire
 off is a
 job. But thats done.
 The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
 comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might
 expect
 but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
 manual.
 So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
 thermocouple in there.
 Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
 heck
 of a gooey mess.
 Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas.
 None
 really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
 peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
 What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
 It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean
 can.
 Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units.
 Had
 it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have
 started the
 process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
 goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
 Regards
 Paul
 WB8TSL
















 On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Campli...@rtty.us  wrote:

 Hi

 If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be  400 Hz off
 frequency.

 Bob

 On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyae...@telight.com  wrote:

 Paul,

 If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few
 years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
 opamp
 that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
 The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it
 did not
 turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
 nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
 replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
 vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
 coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't
 been
 there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
 kinds
 of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
 which is where I started.

 Ed

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-31 Thread Rex

I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.

I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another 
suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used 
test equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to 
loosen up lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and 
lettering.



On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:

Paul,

gas? What gas?

what soft plastic paint remover?

A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.

Cheers,
Magnus

On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:

Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire 
off is a

job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might 
expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service 
manual.

So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one 
heck

of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. 
None

really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean 
can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. 
Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have 
started the

process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
















On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Campli...@rtty.us wrote:


Hi

If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be 400 Hz off
frequency.

Bob

On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyae...@telight.com wrote:


Paul,

If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few
years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the 
opamp

that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it 
did not

turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't 
been
there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all 
kinds

of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
which is where I started.


Ed



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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-31 Thread paul swed
Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline
Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL


On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Rex r...@sonic.net wrote:

 I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.

 I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
 suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used test
 equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to loosen up
 lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and lettering.



 On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:

 Paul,

 gas? What gas?

 what soft plastic paint remover?

 A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.

 Cheers,
 Magnus

 On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:

 Hello to the group.
 As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off
 is a
 job. But thats done.
 The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
 comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
 but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
 manual.
 So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
 thermocouple in there.
 Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
 heck
 of a gooey mess.
 Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
 really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
 peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
 What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
 It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
 Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
 it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started
 the
 process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
 goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
 Regards
 Paul
 WB8TSL
















 On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Campli...@rtty.us wrote:

  Hi

 If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be 400 Hz off
 frequency.

 Bob

 On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breyae...@telight.com wrote:

  Paul,

 If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few

 years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
 opamp
 that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
 The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did
 not
 turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
 nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
 replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
 vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
 coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
 there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
 kinds
 of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
 which is where I started.


 Ed


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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-31 Thread Magnus Danielson

Hi Paul (and others),

On 31/07/13 15:37, paul swed wrote:

Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline


Thanks!


Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency


Bummer. Hope it can resolve itself with some more debugging and test of 
ideas with the good folks here.


Have a few more 10811s to test out.

Cheers,
Magnus
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-23 Thread paul swed
Can popped open pretty easily. Now to start to measure voltages to see if
things are within tolerance.


On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 5:22 PM, paul swed paulsw...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello to the group.
 As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is
 a job. But thats done.
 The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
 comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
 but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
 So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
 thermocouple in there.
 Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
 of a gooey mess.
 Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
 really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
 peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
 What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
 It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
 Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
 it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
 process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
 goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
 Regards
 Paul
 WB8TSL
















 On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp li...@rtty.us wrote:

 Hi

 If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be  400 Hz off
 frequency.

 Bob

 On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya e...@telight.com wrote:

  Paul,
 
  If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few
 years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
 that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
 The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
 turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
 nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
 replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
 vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
 coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
 there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
 of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
 which is where I started.
 
  Ed
 
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-23 Thread WarrenS

Charles

sorry for the delayed answer, see below for why.
I did my own thing for the outer oven controller.
Mark C. S. was kind enough to redraw the schematic of what I made and post 
it on his site.

http://www.vk2hmc.net/blog/?p=526


Do you know that often *your* postings do not show up on the time-nut 
listing I use at

http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/
Which is a shame because I find your responses interesting.
I just saw your past question today by accident elsewhere.

Strange enough, I've seen this a little with others, but yours has been the 
most noticeable.

BTW your time-nut postings do show up other places.

ws

- Original Message - 
From: Charles P. Steinmetz
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
time-nuts@febo.com

Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.



Warren,

Did you use an existing outer oven controller, or build your own?

Best regards,

Charles







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[time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Warren S and I have posted details of an outer oven controller for the 10811 
double oven series here: http://www.vk2hmc.net/blog/?p=526


--marki
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread paul swed
Marki
Funny timing. I am working on a 10811 from a z3801 and am working towards
opening the can its soldered. Steve Smiths posts have been very helpful.
But I am dealing with lots of black melted goo. Not really from heat. Just
age the way a lot of things deteriorate.
That said I will be trying to figure out why the 10811 is -45Hz at temp.
Thats sounds very bad and hope the rocks not the issue. But good to read
improvements also.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL


On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 11:21 AM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.auwrote:

 Warren S and I have posted details of an outer oven controller for the
 10811 double oven series here: http://www.vk2hmc.net/blog/?p=526


 --marki
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread ed breya

Paul,

If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A 
few years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of 
the opamp that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high 
temperature. The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed 
bad - it did not turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the 
inner one to reach nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you 
get it all apart, replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a 
PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the whole story on that 
website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the 
name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be easy to 
find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice 
writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.


Ed

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread Bob Camp
Hi

If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be  400 Hz off 
frequency.

Bob

On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya e...@telight.com wrote:

 Paul,
 
 If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few years 
 ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp that 
 controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature. The 
 symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not turn 
 on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach nominal 
 temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart, replacement of the 
 IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I vaguely recall posting the 
 whole story on that website that has big coverage of the Z3801A - I can't 
 remember the name, since I haven't been there in a while, but it should be 
 easy to find. The website had all kinds of Z3801A info, including a nice 
 writeup on how to take the oven apart, which is where I started.
 
 Ed
 
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 To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread paul swed
Hello to the group.
As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off is a
job. But thats done.
The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service manual.
So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
thermocouple in there.
Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one heck
of a gooey mess.
Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started the
process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL
















On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp li...@rtty.us wrote:

 Hi

 If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be  400 Hz off
 frequency.

 Bob

 On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya e...@telight.com wrote:

  Paul,
 
  If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few
 years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the opamp
 that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
 The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did not
 turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
 nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
 replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
 vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
 coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
 there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all kinds
 of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
 which is where I started.
 
  Ed
 
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  time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
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 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

2013-07-20 Thread Mark C. Stephens
The original post has updated Circuit (different transistors and less minor 
changes)
Also now included is the circuit of the inner oven controller. 
http://www.vk2hmc.net/blog/?p=526

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Mark C. Stephens
Sent: Sunday, 21 July 2013 1:21 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

Warren S and I have posted details of an outer oven controller for the 10811 
double oven series here: http://www.vk2hmc.net/blog/?p=526


--marki
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-16 Thread Bob Camp
Hi

The schematic and explanation on that page pretty well show how the P2/8
shutdown pin from the CPU works on the outer oven in the Z3801.

Bob

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Ed Palmer
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 1:09 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

The schematic has been around for some time.  Although it's not the 
original site (which I believe is now gone), Didier has reposted the 
info at:

http://www.ko4bb.com/Manuals/05%29_GPS_Timing/Z3801/Z3801A_Outer_Oven/Web_Pa
ge/Z3801A%20Outer%20Oven%20Controller.htm

If necessary, be sure to remove any carriage returns or linefeeds in the 
URL.

Ed

On 7/15/2013 7:56 PM, Robert Darby wrote:
 Is anyone aware of a schematic for the oscillator on the web?  I have 
 downloaded the usual 10811 manuals but I've never seen a schematic or 
 description of the pin-outs for the double-oven version.

 Bob Darby

 On 7/12/2013 11:38 AM, Azelio Boriani wrote:
 Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

 On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens 
 ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
 I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven 
 controller floating around?


 -Marki
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-16 Thread Azelio Boriani
You can find a super-simple oven controller here:
http://www.romanblack.com/xoven.htm

On Tue, Jul 16, 2013 at 6:45 PM, Bob Camp li...@rtty.us wrote:
 Hi

 The schematic and explanation on that page pretty well show how the P2/8
 shutdown pin from the CPU works on the outer oven in the Z3801.

 Bob

 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
 Behalf Of Ed Palmer
 Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 1:09 AM
 To: time-nuts@febo.com
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

 The schematic has been around for some time.  Although it's not the
 original site (which I believe is now gone), Didier has reposted the
 info at:

 http://www.ko4bb.com/Manuals/05%29_GPS_Timing/Z3801/Z3801A_Outer_Oven/Web_Pa
 ge/Z3801A%20Outer%20Oven%20Controller.htm

 If necessary, be sure to remove any carriage returns or linefeeds in the
 URL.

 Ed

 On 7/15/2013 7:56 PM, Robert Darby wrote:
 Is anyone aware of a schematic for the oscillator on the web?  I have
 downloaded the usual 10811 manuals but I've never seen a schematic or
 description of the pin-outs for the double-oven version.

 Bob Darby

 On 7/12/2013 11:38 AM, Azelio Boriani wrote:
 Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

 On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens
 ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
 I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven
 controller floating around?


 -Marki
 ___
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 To unsubscribe, go to
 https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread Tom Van Baak (lab)
Ok, thanks for clarifying. In general the time constant one chooses must 
reflect both the intrinsic performance of the OCXO (essentially constant) and 
the realities of GPSDO mechanical, sky-view, and environmental conditions 
(possibly variable). Disabling an oven during a run is equivalent to a radical 
change in environment and not re-tuning the loop parameters will lead to 
sub-optimal or misleading results when plotted.

If you have time, it would be instructive to re-run the experiment. First with 
double oven enabled and do your best case ws-tuning. Then disable the outer 
oven and again do a best-case tuning. The phase/freq/adev plots would be 
revealing, as well as the (major?) difference in optimal tuning values.

/tvb (iPhone4)

On Jul 14, 2013, at 9:19 PM, WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Tom
 
 My posting and plot was only meant to show the difference in tempcoef between 
 an undisciplined single and dual oven 10811 osc which in this case is clearly 
 =  60 to 1.
 Your comments  bring up a different subject which is who needs it and how 
 good does a controlled GPSDO oscillator need to be when not in holdover.
 
 As you know, the purpose of a GPSDO control loop is to make the oscillator's 
 long term stability relatively un-important.
 The longer the measurement time the less important the stability of the 
 controlled osc is in a GPSDO, and as time increases past the GPSDO control 
 loop time constant, the osc stability matters less and less
 
 What you are seeing and saying when analyzing the phase and Freq errors 
 plots, is closed loop performance.
 The phase and freq plots of the dual oven osc would pretty look the same even 
 if compared with a 'perfect' osc, because the dual osc plots is already near 
 or at the noise floor of that TBolt setup and antenna.
 
 One can measure the longer term stability of an oscillator different ways;
 1) Hold the EFC voltage constant and measure the change in frequency or phase 
 with time.
 2) Measure the scaled EFC change necessary to hold the oscillator's freq or 
 phase output constant
 When done carefully and with the EFC voltage scaled correctly both ways can 
 give the same answer.
 
 Answer1)
 The way I measured the two tempco's is by measuring the correlation between 
 the EFC control voltage and the temperature plot
 In the case of the single oven osc, the plot gains are set so that when 
 overlayed the EFC DAC plot looks as close as possible to the temperature plot.
 When the plot time is 24 hr and there is good repeatability, the TC is just 
 the ratio of the two plot gains, i.e theEffective EFC freq change divided by 
 the delta temp.
 In the single oven case DAC plot gain = 1e-10 per division,  temp plot gain = 
 1.5C per division. Tempco = 1e-10 / 1.5  ==  6.7 e-11 / degC.
 I did the same thing for the dual oven trace by expanding the gain and zero 
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread WarrenS


The Tbolt  LadyHeather plots in my posting are being used as a poor mans 
high resolution TIC tester as discussed at length in other postings, not for 
it's GPSDO output capability.
This is a method that allows a time-nut person that does not have any of the 
high end equipment still the ability to do a lot of the high end state of 
the art time-nut testing.
So in this case, it is valid to compare the results of the EFC changes with 
different types of ovens or even different oscillators such as for finding 
an oscillators tempco and ageing,
as long as the plots are interpreted correctly, because the GPSDO tuning 
settings have very little if any effect on the long term EFC voltage plots.


I have found that one of the largest variables in a GPSDO is the effect that 
temperature change has on the performance of the OCXO being disciplined.
This makes the stability of the OXCO very much a non-constant, in fact 
temperature effect on the OXCO is the largest variable in many setups.
That is why to achieve the best GPSDO performance, or even consistent 
performance between different runs when using a typical single oven GPSDO,
one needs to build a brick house in the basement or put the OXCO under test 
in a temperature controlled environment such as a dual oven or LH 
temperature controlled S/W loop.


All secondary temperature control devices have the same general goal which 
is to minimize or eliminate any fast temperature changes and therefore allow 
the GPSDO to take full advantages of the OCXO's then essentially constant 
intrinsic performance.


Before doing any meaningful comparisons between single and dual oven GPSDOs 
or comparing the difference in optimal tuning settings,
one must first define what the temperature environment is.  If the 
temperature is not allowed to change then there is no difference.
With a good dual oven set up, temperature change will have little or no 
effect, whereas with most time-nut available single oven oscillators 
including the single oven 10811,
temperature variation is the first thing one needs to be consider before 
tuning for optimal performance.


ws

**
from Tom Van Baak (lab) tvb at leapsecond.com
Mon Jul 15 12:22:38 EDT 2013


Ok, thanks for clarifying. In general the time constant one chooses must 
reflect both the intrinsic performance of the OCXO (essentially constant) 
and the realities of GPSDO mechanical, sky-view, and environmental 
conditions (possibly variable). Disabling an oven during a run is 
equivalent to a radical change in environment and not re-tuning the loop 
parameters will lead to sub-optimal or misleading results when plotted.


If you have time, it would be instructive to re-run the experiment. First 
with double oven enabled and do your best case ws-tuning. Then disable the 
outer oven and again do a best-case tuning. The phase/freq/adev plots 
would be revealing, as well as the (major?) difference in optimal tuning 
values.


/tvb (iPhone4)

**
From: WarrenS


Tom

My posting and plot was only meant to show the difference in tempco 
between an undisciplined single and dual oven 10811 osc which in this 
case is clearly =  60 to 1.
Your comments  bring up a different subject which is who needs it and how 
good does a controlled GPSDO oscillator need to be when not in holdover.


As you know, the purpose of a GPSDO control loop is to make the 
oscillator's long term stability relatively un-important.
The longer the measurement time the less important the stability of the 
controlled osc is in a GPSDO, and as time increases past the GPSDO 
control loop time constant, the osc stability matters less and less


What you are seeing and saying when analyzing the phase and Freq errors 
plots, is closed loop performance.
The phase and freq plots of the dual oven osc would pretty look the same 
even if compared with a 'perfect' osc, because the dual osc plots is 
already near or at the noise floor of that TBolt setup and antenna.


One can measure the longer term stability of an oscillator different 
ways;
1) Hold the EFC voltage constant and measure the change in frequency or 
phase with time.
2) Measure the scaled EFC change necessary to hold the oscillator's freq 
or phase output constant
When done carefully and with the EFC voltage scaled correctly both ways 
can give the same answer.


Answer1)
The way I measured the two tempco's is by measuring the correlation 
between the EFC control voltage and the temperature plot
In the case of the single oven osc, the plot gains are set so that when 
overlaid the EFC DAC plot looks as close as possible to the temperature 
plot.
When the plot time is 24 hr and there is good repeatability, the TC is 
just the ratio of the two plot gains, i.e the effective EFC freq change 
divided by the delta temp.
In the single oven case DAC plot gain = 1e-10 per division,  temp plot 
gain = 1.5C per division. Tempco = 1e-10 / 1.5  ==  6.7 e-11 / degC.
I did the same thing for the dual 

Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread Bob Stewart
Hi Warren,

I'm a little late to the party, because I just got my GPSDO working.  My OCXO 
(34310-T) is swinging up to 5 or so counts in a 16 second sample and a much 
bigger swing over 24 hours as reflected in the DAC recording.  Do you see any 
improvement available from passive methods, such as building a foam blanket 
around the OCXO?  Yeah, I could just swap in a better OCXO, but I usually take 
the less traditional path. =)


Bob - AE6RV





 From: WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com 
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 2:16 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.
 


The Tbolt  LadyHeather plots in my posting are being used as a poor mans high 
resolution TIC tester as discussed at length in other postings, not for it's 
GPSDO output capability.


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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread Robert Darby
Is anyone aware of a schematic for the oscillator on the web?  I have 
downloaded the usual 10811 manuals but I've never seen a schematic or 
description of the pin-outs for the double-oven version.


Bob Darby

On 7/12/2013 11:38 AM, Azelio Boriani wrote:

Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:

I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven controller 
floating around?


-Marki

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread Mark Spencer
Hi, the recent discussion about 10811's with double oven's caused me to take 
another look at some of the data I've collected from one of my two GPSDO's that 
uses a 10811 double oven OCXO.
  
I realize there is much more to the performance of a GPSDO than the OCXO but I 
can't say I'm unhappy with the performance of this GPSDO and have no complaints 
about the performance of the OCXO in this application.   I expect the data at 
tau 40 seconds is skewed by the noise of the HP5370B.    Sorry that data table 
for these plots shows the data that is more relevant at longer Tau's (it 
doesn't show the values for the comparison between the BVA and the Z3805) but 
the plots show the results at shorter Tau's.
 
As a side note, running standalone none of the 8 or so single oven 10811's I 
own have ever been able to consistently deliver ADEV or MADEV plots in the 13's 
at tau's that I am able to measure (ie 40 seconds.)   
 
Regards
Mark S
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jmpnuos0ei324s4/Composite%20MADEV.png?m
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3wm2wb6uj9jei7a/Composite%2520ADEV%5B2%5D.png?m
 
 
 
 


--

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 12:16:22 -0700
From: WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
    time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.
Message-ID: 8FAFF758C2AB473EBFAC769FA195DB36@Warcon28Gz
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=response


The Tbolt  LadyHeather plots in my posting are being used as a poor mans 
high resolution TIC tester as discussed at length in other postings, not for 
it's GPSDO output capability.
This is a method that allows a time-nut person that does not have any of the 
high end equipment still the ability to do a lot of the high end state of 
the art time-nut testing.
So in this case, it is valid to compare the results of the EFC changes with 
different types of ovens or even different oscillators such as for finding 
an oscillators tempco and ageing,
as long as the plots are interpreted correctly, because the GPSDO tuning 
settings have very little if any effect on the long term EFC voltage plots.

I have found that one of the largest variables in a GPSDO is the effect that 
temperature change has on the performance of the OCXO being disciplined.
This makes the stability of the OXCO very much a non-constant, in fact 
temperature effect on the OXCO is the largest variable in many setups.
That is why to achieve the best GPSDO performance, or even consistent 
performance between different runs when using a typical single oven GPSDO,
one needs to build a brick house in the basement or put the OXCO under test 
in a temperature controlled environment such as a dual oven or LH 
temperature controlled S/W loop.

All secondary temperature control devices have the same general goal which 
is to minimize or eliminate any fast temperature changes and therefore allow 
the GPSDO to take full advantages of the OCXO's then essentially constant 
intrinsic performance.

Before doing any meaningful comparisons between single and dual oven GPSDOs 
or comparing the difference in optimal tuning settings,
one must first define what the temperature environment is.  If the 
temperature is not allowed to change then there is no difference.
With a good dual oven set up, temperature change will have little or no 
effect, whereas with most time-nut available single oven oscillators 
including the single oven 10811,
temperature variation is the first thing one needs to be consider before 
tuning for optimal performance.

ws

**
from Tom Van Baak (lab) tvb at leapsecond.com
Mon Jul 15 12:22:38 EDT 2013

 Ok, thanks for clarifying. In general the time constant one chooses must 
 reflect both the intrinsic performance of the OCXO (essentially constant) 
 and the realities of GPSDO mechanical, sky-view, and environmental 
 conditions (possibly variable). Disabling an oven during a run is 
 equivalent to a radical change in environment and not re-tuning the loop 
 parameters will lead to sub-optimal or misleading results when plotted.

 If you have time, it would be instructive to re-run the experiment. First 
 with double oven enabled and do your best case ws-tuning. Then disable the 
 outer oven and again do a best-case tuning. The phase/freq/adev plots 
 would be revealing, as well as the (major?) difference in optimal tuning 
 values.

 /tvb (iPhone4)
**
From: WarrenS

 Tom

 My posting and plot was only meant to show the difference in tempco 
 between an undisciplined single and dual oven 10811 osc which in this 
 case is clearly =  60 to 1.
 Your comments  bring up a different subject which is who needs it and how 
 good does a controlled GPSDO oscillator need to be when not in holdover.

 As you know, the purpose of a GPSDO control loop is to make the 
 oscillator's long term stability relatively un-important.
 The longer the measurement

Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-15 Thread Ed Palmer
The schematic has been around for some time.  Although it's not the 
original site (which I believe is now gone), Didier has reposted the 
info at:


http://www.ko4bb.com/Manuals/05%29_GPS_Timing/Z3801/Z3801A_Outer_Oven/Web_Page/Z3801A%20Outer%20Oven%20Controller.htm

If necessary, be sure to remove any carriage returns or linefeeds in the 
URL.


Ed

On 7/15/2013 7:56 PM, Robert Darby wrote:
Is anyone aware of a schematic for the oscillator on the web?  I have 
downloaded the usual 10811 manuals but I've never seen a schematic or 
description of the pin-outs for the double-oven version.


Bob Darby

On 7/12/2013 11:38 AM, Azelio Boriani wrote:

Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens 
ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven 
controller floating around?



-Marki

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-14 Thread Tom Van Baak
Hi Warren,

That's a really nice plot.

One comment about the 60:1 quote, though. The plot shows the improvement is 
only 4x when you look at the TI data (what you call phase noise). And the 
plot shows the improvement is only 1.25x when you look at the OSC data. 
Further, if you were to plot the actual output of the TBolt (instead of 
plotting internal PLL loop statistics) I think you'd find these ratios get even 
less impressive.

Thus the other way to interpret the plot is to say that in spite of the 60x 
difference an outer oven makes to the tempco of a stand-alone quartz 
oscillator, it falls to just 1.25x when used in a GPSDO. One could rightly 
conclude then that outer ovens just aren't that important to the stability of a 
locked GPSDO.

Two questions,

1) How did you calculate the two tempco values (1e-12, 6e-11)? From the plot or 
with other tests?

2) Was the time constant (800 s, 0.9 damping) optimized for outer oven turned 
on case? Was it re-optimized for the outer oven off case?

/tvb

- Original Message - 
From: WarrenS warrensjmail-...@yahoo.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.


 
 Bob said {the 10811 will run fine without the outer oven}
 What I've seen is that a dual oven 10811 will run even **finer** and have up 
 to 100 times less sensitivity to normal room temperature changes with a 
 simple outer oven controller and a few mods.
 
 In 2010 I compared the performance of a TBolt using an external dual oven 
 10811 Osc with and without it's outer oven being controlled.
 There was more than a 60 to 1 improvement in the 10811's freq sensitivity to 
 small room temperature changes when the outer oven was active.
 Open loop 10811 TC was 1e-12 /C with the dual oven on compared to 6e-11/C 
 with it off.
 The green trace shows how much less EFC correction is needed to be to keep 
 the 10811's frequency constant when the dual oven is active.
 http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100223/c94d5eec/attachment-0001.gif
 
 ws
 
 *
 - Original Message - 
 From: Bob Camp
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
 time-nuts@febo.com
 Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:45 AM
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.
 
 
Hi

The outer oven on that version is simply a warmup heater. If it's 
operating properly, it drops out in normal operation. Put another way - the 
10811 will run fine without it.

Bob


 
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-14 Thread WarrenS

Tom

My posting and plot was only meant to show the difference in tempcoef 
between an undisciplined single and dual oven 10811 osc which in this case 
is clearly =  60 to 1.
Your comments  bring up a different subject which is who needs it and how 
good does a controlled GPSDO oscillator need to be when not in holdover.


As you know, the purpose of a GPSDO control loop is to make the oscillator's 
long term stability relatively un-important.
The longer the measurement time the less important the stability of the 
controlled osc is in a GPSDO, and as time increases past the GPSDO control 
loop time constant, the osc stability matters less and less


What you are seeing and saying when analyzing the phase and Freq errors 
plots, is closed loop performance.
The phase and freq plots of the dual oven osc would pretty look the same 
even if compared with a 'perfect' osc, because the dual osc plots is already 
near or at the noise floor of that TBolt setup and antenna.


One can measure the longer term stability of an oscillator different ways;
1) Hold the EFC voltage constant and measure the change in frequency or 
phase with time.
2) Measure the scaled EFC change necessary to hold the oscillator's freq or 
phase output constant
When done carefully and with the EFC voltage scaled correctly both ways can 
give the same answer.


Answer1)
The way I measured the two tempco's is by measuring the correlation between 
the EFC control voltage and the temperature plot
In the case of the single oven osc, the plot gains are set so that when 
overlayed the EFC DAC plot looks as close as possible to the temperature 
plot.
When the plot time is 24 hr and there is good repeatability, the TC is just 
the ratio of the two plot gains, i.e theEffective EFC freq change divided by 
the delta temp.
In the single oven case DAC plot gain = 1e-10 per division,  temp plot gain 
= 1.5C per division. Tempco = 1e-10 / 1.5  ==  6.7 e-11 / degC.
I did the same thing for the dual oven trace by expanding the gain and zero 
offset of the DAC plot until it looked like the temperature plot.
In the dual oven case because of the lower correlation (aka noise) and 
limited run time (under 24 hrs) I could only say the TC was under the 
resolution for that measurement period and filter setting which was 1e-12 / 
degC.
With longer run times and more care it is posible to measure TempCo with 
resolution under 1e-13 / degC, which I've done for the LPRO.


Answer2)
The 800 sec TC  0.9 damping was fixed throughout the run and is a nominal 
value I often use with good external oscillators on my TBolt (or a LH temp 
controlled internal osc).
As you said, for this run and set of conditions, the dual oven did not help 
that much even though the dual oven oscillator is much more stable by  60 
to 1  with temperature changes.
To take advantages of all of the extra stability of the dual oven I can set 
the extended TC has high as 3000 to 5000.
Also note that at during that run time, the temperature only changed about 3 
deg C. If this test where done when the temperature changed say 15 deg C 
over a short time period then you would really be noticing  the difference 
between the two oscillators in the disciplined mode.


In summery that picture is what I had on hand to show the performance 
difference in a 10811 dual oven and single oven operation.
In this case the TBold is just being used as a TIC substitute to show 
relative differences in the EFC voltage over time periods 1000 second, and 
therefore only the green plot should be used to see what the oscillator 
would do if it where in open loop and undisciplined.
It is fair to assume, and the other plots verify, that the GPS contol loop 
is doing it's job good enough and holding the long term freq and phase of 
the osc constant enough for valid freq measurments to be made using mode 2 
above from the EFC voltage.


ws

*
**
- Original Message - 
From: Tom Van Baak

Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 6:15 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.


Hi Warren,

That's a really nice plot.

One comment about the 60:1 quote, though. The plot shows the improvement is 
only 4x when you look at the TI data (what you call phase noise). And the 
plot shows the improvement is only 1.25x when you look at the OSC data. 
Further, if you were to plot the actual output of the TBolt (instead of 
plotting internal PLL loop statistics) I think you'd find these ratios get 
even less impressive.


Thus the other way to interpret the plot is to say that in spite of the 60x 
difference an outer oven makes to the tempco of a stand-alone quartz 
oscillator, it falls to just 1.25x when used in a GPSDO. One could rightly 
conclude then that outer ovens just aren't that important to the stability 
of a locked GPSDO.


Two questions,

1) How did you calculate the two tempco values (1e-12, 6e-11)? From the plot 
or with other tests?


2) Was the time

[time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-12 Thread Mark C. Stephens
I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven controller 
floating around?


-Marki

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-12 Thread Azelio Boriani
Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
 I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven controller 
 floating around?


 -Marki

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and follow the instructions there.


Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-12 Thread Mark C. Stephens
Sure, Maybe there is a market for a run of them ;)

-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On Behalf 
Of Azelio Boriani
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2013 1:38 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...

On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:
 I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven controller 
 floating around?


 -Marki

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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-12 Thread Bob Camp
Hi

The outer oven on that version is simply a warmup heater. If it's operating 
properly, it drops out in normal operation. Put another way - the 10811 will 
run fine without it.

Bob

On Jul 12, 2013, at 1:41 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au wrote:

 Sure, Maybe there is a market for a run of them ;)
 
 -Original Message-
 From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On 
 Behalf Of Azelio Boriani
 Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2013 1:38 AM
 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
 Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.
 
 Is it enough if I have a schematic to send? But first let me find it...
 
 On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Mark C. Stephens ma...@non-stop.com.au 
 wrote:
 I have a spare 10811 double oven, is there a homebrew outer oven controller 
 floating around?
 
 
 -Marki
 
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 To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
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Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.

2013-07-12 Thread WarrenS


Bob said {the 10811 will run fine without the outer oven}
What I've seen is that a dual oven 10811 will run even **finer** and have up 
to 100 times less sensitivity to normal room temperature changes with a 
simple outer oven controller and a few mods.


In 2010 I compared the performance of a TBolt using an external dual oven 
10811 Osc with and without it's outer oven being controlled.
There was more than a 60 to 1 improvement in the 10811's freq sensitivity to 
small room temperature changes when the outer oven was active.
Open loop 10811 TC was 1e-12 /C with the dual oven on compared to 6e-11/C 
with it off.
The green trace shows how much less EFC correction is needed to be to keep 
the 10811's frequency constant when the dual oven is active.

http://www.febo.com/pipermail/time-nuts/attachments/20100223/c94d5eec/attachment-0001.gif

ws

*
- Original Message - 
From: Bob Camp
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement 
time-nuts@febo.com

Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 10811 outer oven controller.



Hi

The outer oven on that version is simply a warmup heater. If it's 
operating properly, it drops out in normal operation. Put another way - the 
10811 will run fine without it.


Bob




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