Joseph wrote:
For _forming_, one needs something very viscous, something that
lubricates at very high pressures, at the yield strength of the
material being formed.
I've had excellent results with STP oil treatment, by itself or with
added Tungsten disulfide. I frequently tap under power at
: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
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Kerosine is a better tap lube for Aluminum as it is more persistent
and less flammable
NO. Kerosene is *not* a good lubricant for _forming_ taps.
Kerosene (WD-40) and alcohol are good lubricants
t McGrath
>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
>>
>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=us-ascii
>>
>> Kerosine is a better tap lube for Aluminum as it is mo
On Sat, 29 Jul 2017 22:49:10 -0400, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
>
> --
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2017 20:57:56 -0400
> From: Scott McGrath
> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
>
> Subject: Re:
Kerosene as the cutting fluid and use Acetone to clean up the kerosene
afterwards.
__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389
On 7/29/2017 7:57 PM, Scott McGrath wrote:
> Kerosine is a better tap lube for Aluminum as it is more persistent and less
> flammable
>
>
ist submissions to
>>time-nuts@febo.com
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2017 14:11:09 -0700
>> From: "Gary E. Miller"
>> To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
>>
>> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Machining s
time and frequency measurement
>
> Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
> Message-ID: <20170728141109.71aad...@spidey.rellim.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Yo cdel...@juno.com!
>
> On Fri, 28 Jul 2017 12:46:30 -0700
> wrot
Nice!
Do you mind posting some photos?
Thanks.
Edésio
On Fri, Jul 28, 2017 at 12:46:30PM -0700, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
> Well I did some research and found my new best friend!
>
> If you remember I needed: "I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a
> .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
>
> I need
Yo cdel...@juno.com!
On Fri, 28 Jul 2017 12:46:30 -0700
wrote:
> After mounting the tap in the drill
> press and putting a dab of Crisco on the tap I was able to tap each
> hole to a depth of 7/16" as fast as I could turn the handwheel!
Cool!
I suggest you get some real cutting fluid. The th
Good even for mild steel too. Best is your good advice to use the drill
press to keep the tap aligned. softer aluminum alloys are very "sticky"
and demand backing off a turn for almost every turn forward for cutting
taps to break the chip. I've found that the 6/32 tap is the most easily
broken
Well I did some research and found my new best friend!
If you remember I needed: "I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a
.25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep."
This for a Rubidium standard I am working on.
I found all about self forming ta
-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
This is the first time I've looked at time-nuts in about a month, and I noticed
the run about this project. I'm very late to the party, but have a few
suggestions that may help - if it's not too late. I quickly scan
That is one reason people have been recommending heilicoils. The
drill an tap size is about 30% larger than for #4 screws without the
inserts. It is easier to do and when you are done there are stainless
female threads that are much stronger.
On Thu, May 25, 2017 at 3:57 PM, ed breya wrote:
>
One thing I forgot to add - if you must use the 4-40 screw size for some
reason, you can save a lot of grief by using a slightly larger bit than
the standard tap drill. You're not really too concerned with optimal fit
and strength here - it's more about being able to make a whole lot of
usable
Why not make the enclosure with a round, not square cross section then
the end plate can screw in. Only one hole to thread that way. Of
course there is plumbing pipe but also stainless steel water bottles,
fly rod cases and all kinds of ready made metal enclosures with
thread caps that can hold
This is the first time I've looked at time-nuts in about a month, and I
noticed the run about this project. I'm very late to the party, but have
a few suggestions that may help - if it's not too late. I quickly
scanned many of the posts, and agree with many of the ideas. Please
forgive if my su
Hi
> On May 19, 2017, at 5:35 PM, Chris Albertson
> wrote:
>
> Yes, threaded inserts. There are many kinds but they are used almost
> universally for cases where the material to be threaded is soft, like
> aluminum. They also eliminate or reduce galvanic corrosion which is an
> issue with s
I worked on a project like this once. No screws at all. Rather then a 0.1
PSI over pressure. the interior was flush with dry gas then pumped out with
to a crude vacuum with a hand pump. Air pressure alone force the cover
plate on. OK a couple screws where there just to aid in assembly but the
Yes, threaded inserts. There are many kinds but they are used almost
universally for cases where the material to be threaded is soft, like
aluminum. They also eliminate or reduce galvanic corrosion which is an
issue with steel screws in aluminum. (that said, as long as you keep water
away you a
We also used helicoils in titanium frames of the supercomputer I used to work
with. Meant we could use relatively standard fasteners without fear of falling.
On a time nuts related note, I have a u blox GPS-1E that seems to be stuck
spewing out in ublox format. With no development sw available
Corby
Unless you have the tubing and plates machined flat they will leak as the
tubing sides are not guaranteed to be flat and parallel wrt each side and
aluminum plate stock is not flat unless you purchase 'tooling plate' which is
ground parallel on both sides
So creating a seal is problemati
Thanks everyone.
Not looking for a redesign, just figuring out how to get the holes
drilled and tapped.
I have come up with a scheme that looks promising and will let you know
how it goes.
The enclosure only has to hold +.1PSI of dry nitrogen without leaking.
It will have a pressure sensor insi
>
> There are a lot of variables involved. Run the screws in and out of the
> aluminum a number of times and
> the holes will fail first ….There are other gotchas as well.
>
> Bob
>
This is where helicoils come in to play. They are used a lot on the CVD
furnaces that I used to make parts fo
To tell the truth I had not worked this out.But I wonder of the screws
fail first on
they are in aluminum holes with only 1/4 of thread.
Which fails depends on the material and the number of engaged threads,
But if what you say is right for this case. It strengthens my case for
using self th
On Fri, 19 May 2017 12:00:01 -0400, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
> Re: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
It's much easier to use thread-forming taps in aluminum than thread
cutting, and the threads are far stronger. Blind holes are not as
large a problem. Lubricate with
These threads where there is not enough information to define the
problem can grow forever, because they are based on speculation, not
facts.
Corby, you have decided what you need based on what you know, but the
rest of us need a more general statement of the problem.
Unless, of course, that is s
> On May 18, 2017, at 8:13 PM, jimlux wrote:
>
> On 5/18/17 2:36 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>> It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
>> really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
>> would work then you can do the work yourself with ju
On 5/18/17 2:36 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
would work then you can do the work yourself with just a hand drill.
OK it you must use machine threads and th
Subject: [time-nuts] Machining some aluminum help!
Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill bits.
Good idea about drillin
So the goal is not to attach end plates, that is the solution. The real
goal is a sealed container that can be re-opened.I suggest a trip to
the plumbing supply store.Why not just use screw-on end caps
It you need it sealed 4-40 screw are not able to provide any reasonable
clamping force.
Andy,
Although this is a hydraulic cylinder, this is along the lines of what you
described.
On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 19:18 Andy ZL3AG via time-nuts
wrote:
>
>
> Or go for thicker wall aluminium tube, oversized endplates and long bolts
> or threaded rods running the entire length down the outs
Or go for thicker wall aluminium tube, oversized endplates and long bolts or
threaded rods running the entire length down the outside of the tube so you're
clamping both ends in one operation. No tapping required. Simples!
On 19/05/2017, at 6:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
> I bet you went to 0.
Why are my eyes watering?
On 19/05/2017, at 5:03 AM, Bob Darlington wrote:
> I had
> to soak my cavity ring in nitric acid for a month to get the tap out.
>
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It would be easy to re-design the job for cheaper machining.. Do you
really need to tap the holes? You might use self taping screws. Id the
would work then you can do the work yourself with just a hand drill.
OK it you must use machine threads and they must be #4 size try "rivets"
these work li
On 5/18/17 1:34 PM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
bits.
Good idea about drilling the end plate
Content by Scott
Typos by Siri
> On May 18, 2017, at 4:34 PM, wrote:
>
> Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
> I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
> threaded depth.
> I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
> bit
Yes, generally when something is expensive to manufacture it is because the
designer was not thinking about costs. A design with 40 size "tiny" thread
holes in just not cost-effective. A redesign could save hours work.
On Thu, May 18, 2017 at 11:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
> I'm very dubious that
If you need pressure moisture tightness you are going to want to have machinist
mill tube ends and plates flat if you take off say 075-100 thousands deep and
.225 thousanths around edge of plate and have machinist predrill holes in cover
plate you will have both a tight seal and drill guide for
On 18/05/2017 4:34 PM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
Or go back to the shop and get a new quote with them knowing it's not
bottom tapping, only 1/4" threaded depth.
Michael
__
Well that generated a lot of advice and thanks for it!
I think I might do it myself and go with a 1/2" hole depth and 1/4"
threaded depth.
I'll get some of that Aluminum Tap magic, some new taps and new drill
bits.
Good idea about drilling the end plates first and drilling thru to match.
Between th
On 5/18/17 11:53 AM, jimlux wrote:
On 5/18/17 11:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
I'm very dubious that you need a tapped 4-40 hole to be threaded any
deeper
than 0.25". If you work with the machinist I'm sure you can come up with
some reasonable spec that does not require a bottoming tap and will save
On 5/18/17 11:16 AM, Tim Shoppa wrote:
I'm very dubious that you need a tapped 4-40 hole to be threaded any deeper
than 0.25". If you work with the machinist I'm sure you can come up with
some reasonable spec that does not require a bottoming tap and will save
you a lot of money.
The rule of t
I agree, tapping that depth in aluminum is just asking to gall the threads. If
you have a decent alloy (6061 7075) you only need 1/8” to hold what ever is
save to hold with a #4. If you need more strength then it would be best to use
helicoil inserts.
Where are you located? There are a number
I'm very dubious that you need a tapped 4-40 hole to be threaded any deeper
than 0.25". If you work with the machinist I'm sure you can come up with
some reasonable spec that does not require a bottoming tap and will save
you a lot of money.
I bet you went to 0.25" wall square tubing only because
People's (mis)perception of machine shop costs always amazes me. All too
often they equate the fact that they could do it themselves (inaccurately)
on an old drill press and then hand tap with what a real shop will do - all
while that real shop has a $100k - $500k investment in a single machine.
Tap Magic for Aluminum will be your best friend for this operation.
I've been using it on some extrusion for a 3D printer project. It makes
an amazing amount of difference.
Good luck with you project.
Todd
On 05/18/17 12:18, Pete Lancashire wrote:
Price sounds reasonable to me.
Tapping 40
Price sounds reasonable to me.
Tapping 40 each 4-40's that deep in to a closed hole is the killer. If I
still had my old Bridgeport J and was NC'ed Your looking at say 1 hour to
program, 10 minutes to mount in a vice and get aligned, drill 40 each #44
or #43 holes would be easy, but then slow thin
On 5/18/17 10:03 AM, Bob Darlington wrote:
Ask them what they'd do it for without the tapping. Normally I'd do
something like this for free but 40 tapped 4-40 holes in heavy wall
aluminum is a pain. It would be a miracle if I didn't break the tap off at
least once.
Very much so.. 40 tapped ho
This is fairly easy to do on a vertical mill, but it can be done using a
drill press.
I would machine and drill the end plates first. Then I would use
hot-glue or double-sided tape to attach one of the end plates to the
tube ends and use the end plate as a drilling guide to drill and tap the
Ask them what they'd do it for without the tapping. Normally I'd do
something like this for free but 40 tapped 4-40 holes in heavy wall
aluminum is a pain. It would be a miracle if I didn't break the tap off at
least once. Last time was for a resonant cavity amp (23cm band) and I had
to soak my
On 5/18/17 9:54 AM, cdel...@juno.com wrote:
Hi,
I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep.
So you're putting 5 holes in each side? in the ends? (i.e. the long axis
of the screw is within the wall?
Tha
Hi,
I have a square aluminum tube 5" X 5" with a .25" wall it's 8 1/2" long.
I need 20 holes in each end tapped for 4/40 and 1/2" deep.
This is for a Rubidium project.
The local machine shop want's $360.00
Anyone have a machining setup that could do the work a bit cheaper?
If not I'll giv
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