Kurt
This is a good point, the CPEs are all sending a signal back to the AP at
random times but as you scale more are hitting at the same time which can
over load the receivers on some AP radios. When you lower the power on the
units that are closer this reduces the total power levels the radio is
We don't use them that much anymore in the new product lines but we do have
stock they are .25 each less than 100 and 20 each with 100+. You can call
and talk to one of our sales reps to order just reference part number
MF-SLAD250ADH.
Sincerely, Tony Morella
Demarc Technology Group, A Wireles
I have already emailed Mikrotik a week ago, and opened a new thread on
their forum. They should at least get the idea of what I need and
develop a test that is specific to their wireless.
I do NOT want this to turn into a year long project.
Travis
Tom DeReggi wrote:
Butch,
You have misu
Tom,
One thing I did when I was building StarOS radios was use one
mounting screw per board. Partly I was doing that because I thought
the board should be grounded to the case, but it also would have
helped if the glue failed on the plastic standoffs.
Also, I'm not sure what the bad effects
Question was. Do they last? In the heat, in the cold??
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> We don't use them that much anymore in the new product lines but we do have
> stock they are .25 each less than 100 and 20 each with 100+. You can call
> and talk to one of our sales reps to order just reference p
I've used them for a few years now and can't recall seeing any of the
larger sized bases come unglued from the enclosure.
I use these everywhere, all I use is boards and rootennas.
The ones that have failed are the skinnier small based ones. I've seen
that when it got too cold inside a nema enc
One nice thing about the new 4 ports in the enclosure, they use the
metal standoffs we are suposed to be using, so it's grounded like you
said in various spots on the board.
John Valenti wrote:
> Tom,
>
> One thing I did when I was building StarOS radios was use one
> mounting screw per boa
Well, I feel like an idiot. The Internal and External interfaces were
labeled incorrectly (or the cables were plugged in the wrong way, take
your pick).
I now have it working as expected the setup below does work. Not sure
why it was exhibiting the behavior it was, but I didn't spend the time
I was looking around for a method to keep at least my backbone
running during an extended power outage. (we have had ice storms take
out power for 4 - 7 days).
It seemed like the small generators might be a solution, the Honda/
etc name brand ones seem to be ~$600 for 1000 watts. And I found
Mike Hammett wrote:
> In the RooTenna or in the DCE?
>
In their new enclosure.
WISPA Wants You! Join today!
http://signup.wispa.org/
In the RooTenna or in the DCE?
--
Mike Hammett
Intelligent Computing Solutions
http://www.ics-il.com
- Original Message -
From: "George Rogato" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "WISPA General List"
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: [WISPA] pcb
> One nice thing abou
John, We have a unit that I paid about $300 for from Tractor Supply. It
is made by Champion Tools and has 3500 watts continuous with a 4000 watt
surge capacity. It has a LOT more than 150 hours on it without a bit of
problems. They key in my mind and from talking to others is keeping it
properl
If you are powering anything but a rectifier to charge batteries, look for a
generator with inverter technology such as the honda EU series. Most portable
generators don't have the voltage or frequency regulation stability to keep
UPSes or sensitive electronics running. Inverter generators produ
I have used 10 cents per watt as a good value for manual start, small
generator.
15 cents per watt for larger units with electric start. (10 kW and larger)
20 cents per watt for larger units with automatic start (new without
transfer switch).
25 cents to 30 cents per watt for larger units with au
John,
We had to run for over a month on generator at the end of last year. (long
story but the place where we contract for one of our towers defaulted on
their loan and the bank took over it took over a month and a break in to
get the power restored).
My point was we used one of the 1000 wa
You probably want to finance something like the Yamaha or Honda 1000
to 3000 series "i" generators. They run on an inverter so they can
purr at variable RPMS (saving you gas) while providing enough power to
your backhauls.
The 1000 series fit in the trunk of your car, are darn near silent an
We had a similar experience. We ran our site for 5 months on a combination of
batteries and generators. I second the Honda EU and/or Yamaha. They are
inverter based and do make a better sine wave, or cleaner power.
I also noticed we could run our site 8 hrs on a tank of 2.5 gallons on the
H
I have a pull start Generac unit. It's a 5kw (6500 surge). I bought it
from a guy that bought it for the y2k thing then never used it. I've only
had the system on it once so far and it worked fine.
I'll not buy another pull start 10 horse motor though. It's hard to start
after sitting for a
The LP or Natural Gas is the way to go. Normally, 100 lbs tanks are simple
and cheap, here around 60 bucks delivered. It will run a generate for a
good number of hours. A customer put in a 15k auto gen found it on e-bay
delivered for 2500 bucks! Ran his NOC twice for 5-6 days each. Has a 250
t
I remember coming across this gas generator last year:
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=539
There is cheaper ones but they also include the automatic transfer
switch which is usually a big expense it self.
Dennis Burgess - LinkTechs.net wrote:
> Th
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