Compression test would help.  There are several things that could be
screwing you up that you haven't tested so far, but a compression test would
reveal most.  You can bu a compression gauge at Sears I think (I got mine
there, but that was a dozen or more years ago) along with appropriate
adapters for the smaller plug size.  It's a pain in the a$$ to get the
injectors out to make sure they are spraying, so that's out.  One thing that
caused a problem with me was the cold start injector.  Seems if the
connection is bad to that item, the car stalls and won't restart until a
good connection is established.  In B13s, anyway.

Hmmm...what else?  Just because you have fuel pressure, doesn't mean the
injectors are firing.  If your MAF sensor is disconnected or bad (but I'm
sure your ECU would barf on this) then you probably won't get fuel to the
cylinders.  I don't know how much diagnostics the ECU has so I'm in terra
incognita here.  I woulda guessed busted timing chain but that can sometimes
ruin your whole day.  And makes a lot of noise, to boot.  But if the timing
chain did stretch just prior to braking that could eplain the poor running.
And if you happened to break in a place where all the valves had positive
clearance to the pistons at top (not sure there IS such a place, but I'm
guessing there is) then it's possible you have killed your engine in the
best possible way.  And since it was not RUNNING when it broke, at the best
possible time too.

But I could be wrong.  Hopefully it's something much more simple.  What I
used to do with my Volvo (Bosch CFI) was lift the intake flapper with the
ignition on and all the injectors taken out but still connected, and look at
the spray pattern.  It looks to be a LOT harder to get the injectors out on
the B13 and do that same test.

-----Original Message-----
From: Zackman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 1:40 PM
To: Sentra Mailing List
Subject: Re: SML: Car Cranks but Doesn't Turn



>Very good! You have the smarts to make sure something is good before you
throw more parts and money at the problem. 

Answer:  Thanks Ken.  It made me feel good to know that I am going to the
right diagnostic direction.

>Obviously you don't have a problem with spark being there so we can dismiss
that.  So you basically got two things left. Compression and fuel.
I'd look at the fuel thingy next. If you can remove the rear seat you can
access the fuel pump. Just turn the ignition ON and there shoul dbe a brief
whirring of the pump as is builds up fuel pressure. If there is no sound I'd
do a continuity check on the fuel pump. If you can sort of hear the pump
GROAN as it fires up to build pressure I'd look at the fuel filter. Maybe
clogged...
Next I would probably rent a compression tester and do a compression test.

Ken

Answer:  With the ignition ON, I could hear the whirring sound.  I checked
the fuel delivery wires, I had continuity.  Fuel filter was replaced last
Sunday.  I guess that leaves the compression test.  BTW, where can I rent
this tester and how do I do it?

>Did you reinstall the spark plug wires in the right firing order? 

Answer:  I took off and installed the wires one at a time.  I bought OEM cap
and rotor.  The cap has numbers next to the wire output holes.  Anyway, the
problem started before I installed the cap.

>Have you tried using the self diagnosis mode? Some codes won't activate the
check 
engine light but will be stored in the memory of the ecu. Haynes says to 
check for trouble codes if you have "driveability" problems.

Good luck
Javier


Answer:  I checked the ECU.  Funny thing was that it gave me Code 55 (5 long
flashes and 5 short flashes).  I looked at my Haynes (I know, I know, get
FSM), anyway, it meant Normal operation. No problems are detected.

>Haynes says to
>check for trouble codes if you have "driveability" problems.

>I don't think the car not starting goes under "driveability" problems when
>you can't friggin' drive! :-)

>ken

Answer:  I am sure that would not help as the ECU gives me Code 55.

Anyway, I am going with Ken's suggestion next.  Compression test.  All other
suggestions are appreciated though.  I might as well check everything since
I have the car on ramp.

Thanks and wish me luck.



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