I just checked the compression and cyls 2 and 3 are dead. No compression at
all. How would it run with 2 dead cylinders and even smooth out at higher
RPMs? The only thing I can think of is they fire 180 degrees apart and that
will allow for some balance in the engine. I believe a complete overhaul is in
order.Thanks for the replies.
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2013 22:33:25 -0400
From: "Mike D." <turboshelbydo...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: SD> Not running right
To: "shelbydodge@imagilist.com" <shelbydodge@imagilist.com>
Message-ID: <bay179-w95499b6cda6fa622a5ba99d5...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Have not responded to this list in a VERY long time....sorry if I'm doing it
wrong.
When you had the distributor cap off, did you check to see if the hall effect
shutter was still attached? The plastic "welds" are known to fail and the
metal shutter flops around causing the hall effect sensor to report erroneous
positions.
Also, I imagine an OBD I code reader might be able to be acquired for pretty
cheap....or you could fix the bulb.
Mike
'87 CSX #481
'05 neon sxt
'94 ram
> From: glhs...@juno.com
> Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2013 01:39:17 +0000
> To: shelbydodge@imagilist.com
> Subject: SD> Not running right
>
> I need some help from the best. My 87 GLHS runs like it is skipping bad at
> idle but runs smoother at about 2500-3000 RPMs. It fouled out the plugs on
> cylinders 2,3,and 4. Number one looks ok. I replaced the distributor cap,
> same thing. I set the timing to 12 degrees (unplugged the temp sensor and
> the engine was warmed up). I have spark (checked with timing gun) on all
> four cylinders. I have not been able to check the computer as the bulb is
> out and I cannot find anyone with a OBD I checker. I could go to the local
> parts house, I just do not want to put that stress on her (170k+). Any
> advice?Thanks,Mike
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