Re: ShopTalk: NF2

[Bernie Baymiller]

Alan,   I've never used a loft and lie machine (Colin bent my irons for me on his way to the winter show in FL one year), but I can see where it would be useful...IF you are a good enough player to need the fine tuning it can give you. But, as a hobbyist? No, I can't see the value in spending $1250 or more for a good one, or even $600 for a used one. I'll go to a pro clubmaker who uses his machine enough to justify the cost. Even with over a hundred senior aquaintenances that I could (and do) call customers, I never get asked to have lofts and lies adjusted.   I've never owned a frequency analyzer and don't really trust them. I've used one, but you need to use a spine finder before you use one to be sure you're measuring (the NBP or spine) consistently from shaft to shaft to get a good match. Then you have to fiddle with clamping and unclamping, etc. Maybe I just don't know enough about them to be a good judge for comparison.   The NF2 is a whole different ball game. It's a good measure of how much stiffness is in a shaft and can make repeatable readings within .002", or about 1/2 cpm. It automatically measures each shaft from the NBP (except maybe for a bent shaft), so you are matching apples to apples when you are doing a set. Most clubmakers sort shafts by weight, those with frequency analyzers by frequency and with an NF2 you measure upwards deflection of the shaft in flex at a set beam length. And, like a frequency analyzer, you can measure from different beam lengths to locate stiffness at just about any point on the shaft. I've plotted graphs of shaft deflections for the first 10" from the tip to see if there was a pattern I liked...kind of shaft profiling. (Haven't done enough yet to know.) A nice feature is the simple marking guide which lets you accurately mark the NBP and spine positions. It also can be built with a rotating vise mount and face alignment guide which enable you to check the alignment of assembled clubs. I've found this feature very handy on occasion...checking customer clubs which the customer can't hit, as well as speeding a reshafting job. For reshafting a wood, I put the shaft in the NF2, rotate to vertical, epoxy the tip, put on the ferrule and slide on the head, align with the face alignment guide and put aside to set up.   Matching a set of shafts: Sorting shafts by deflection is a breeze...pop a shaft in the NF2, read and mark the NBP deflection, rotate the shaft to the spine, mark and record that number. Now, I can use the softest shaft for my longest iron and stiffest shaft for my shortest iron...either by the NBP or by the spine numbers. I also know the spine magnitude. Anything out of the ordinary in spine magnitude in the set and I can easily spot a bent or crooked shaft. After I have my shafts sorted, I choose a base shaft to match...could be the 3-iron, might want to use the 5-iron, or in this case, an 8-iron. I'm matching a set from 5-iron to SW and using the 8-iron shaft as a base. I know that 8-iron shaft's NBP deflection is .543 (I'm using the NBP deflection in this case on a stepless steel R flex) and need to find its tip sensitivity to figure my target deflections for the other clubs. I put the shaft in the NF2, slide the shaft one inch beyond the tip stop and take a reading, then 2" beyond the tip stop and take a reading, then 3", etc. The average difference between these 1" readings is the tip sensitivity per inch...0.022" in this case. Next, I decide on my slope. I like a 3/8" slope instead of the recommended 1/2", so I multiply .375 (3/8") x the tip sensitivity/inch and get something  like .008". Next I have to see where the 8-iron deflection will fall when I trim it properly from a 40" raw shaft to its final 37-1/2" length, so I assume it is a 3-iron at .543 and add.008 for the target for the 4-iron, another .008 for the 5-iron, etc. I write all the target deflections down from 5-iron to SW...that's .559, .567, .575, .583 (the base shaft that is .543 at full length), .591, .599, .607, and .615. I put each shaft in the NF2, slide it until it reads the target deflection for that club, mark it along the tip stop and trim. Now, my shafts all match for deflection, Finally, I butt trim to club length.   To do this fast and accurately does take a little practice. Like any homemade tool, it will have some idiosyncrasies. You can't have the bearings on any masking tape or labeling on the shaft. Sometimes the dial indicator hangs up, but a quick rotation usually fixes that. With straight shafts, I can usually get within .002 repeatability. After all shafts are trimmed I check by putting each shaft back in the NF2 with tip against the tip stop to be sure it is on the target deflection...about a 1 minute check.   What's really lacking with the NF2 is a history. At this point, there are no standards or deflection charts...we've decided on a beam length of 35" for irons and 40" for woods...which allows enough sliding room to do sets of clubs for all but junior lengths. Of course, you can set it at any beam length from about 20" to about 50". ST'er Matt Mathews recently designed an adjustable dial indicator mount, which we hope will enable users to calibrate their units so we can compare numbers. I might also mention that Dan has done so much detail in his plans that it looks sort of complicated. You probably will need a drill press and power saw (or have a friend with them) to make an accurate NF2 (the bearing mount holes must be straight), but it's not really difficult to build doing it a step at a time. The assembly instructions are good and parts list complete. If you need pics for reference, there are over 40 of them including both overall and detail shots. Operating instructions are also included.   It's really fun to use   Bernie Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]!   ----- Original Message ----- From: Alan Joyce To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2002 12:16 PM Subject: ShopTalk: NF2 Hi all,         I'm thinking of adding some equipment this off season. I've heard of the NF2 on this board. What is it and how would it compare to replacing a frequency analyser? Also what is the web site that has the used golf lie loft machines. Would you say a frequency machine ( or NF2) is more important or the lie loft machine... the reason I ask is I don't think I can afford both I am just a hobbisist. Thanks Alan