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Even if you are a good amateur, I'm not sure you do get what you pay for
when you purchase expensive components...unless you are purchasing the brand
name. With only a few tools, you might be able to build a set of irons for
about $15 a club that will look almost as good and play as well or better than
anything five times the price. But to do it, you need a swingweight scale, a
gram scale and a way to measure shaft consistency and flex, whether by frequency
of deflection. The S/W scale is $50-$90, gram scale about $25 (digital postal
scale) and my DIY Neufinder2 deflection shaft matching machine about $100.
I guess I'd add an inexpensive chop saw ($25-$40) to make trim increments a lot
easier.
There are companies which make inexpensive-medium priced shafts, like SK
Fiber, whose specs are dead on and whose performance is excellent. You can find
proprietary shafts from several component suppliers which are as good and
even less money. Some suppliers will hand sort head weights for you (at least
they come very close).
I just finished a set for under $15 a club that plays better for me than
any set I've ever hit at any price. They hit solid, straight and long. Yes,
I knew what flex the shafts had to be to within .025" deflection, or about 1/2 a
flex, I knew the slope that worked the best for me and I knew the length which
gave me a correct lie for my swing. I weighed everything, adjusted heads
($6.95) for a swingweight of D3 across the set (came within 0.6 of a point
across 9 irons, D2.9-D3.5). Flex of .446" (a mid-low R on my NF2) was my
baseline and all others were matched to it +/- .002" on a 3/8" slope. I aligned
them NBP-COG, though the filament wound shafts ($6.30 each) were so consistent
that they probably didn't need any particular alignment. (Incidentally, if
you haven't tried this alignment on irons, I highly recommend it. I haven't hit
wedges this straight in the last 10 years...every shot is dead on where I aim
it. Now, if I could just get the distance right....) Grips were a buck...kind of
like a Players Softee...comfortable and good grip in any weather (I use a
"cloth-type" glove), and this type grip is the easiest to put on and
take off of any I've tried.
If you don't need to show off any particular logo, and if you know what you
are buying and where to get it, you can make great sticks for little money. If
you buy highly advertised and hyped brands, you can count on paying 40%-80%
extra for their marketing costs. Funny thing is that in analyzing the
consistency of most of the more expensive components, I find they often aren't
as well made as the inexpensive ones...shafts in particular.
Bernie
Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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- Re: ShopTalk: mars iron components Arniesclubs
- Re: ShopTalk: Expensive vs inexpensive components Bernie Baymiller
- Re: ShopTalk: Expensive vs inexpensive component... David Rees
- Re: ShopTalk: Expensive vs inexpensive compo... Bernie Baymiller
- ShopTalk: NBP-COG Jim & Ivette
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Doug Clark
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Bernie Baymiller
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Jim & Ivette
- RE: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Mark A Patton
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Jim & Ivette
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG David Rees
- Re: ShopTalk: NBP-COG Jim & Ivette
