Bernie, can you break this down for me a little more, im not following it exactly, maybe? i have a spine finder made out of atube with two free bearings and a third tip bearing. i push the tip down untill it rotates to show the spine. how does that relate to what you are saying. - Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bernie Baymiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 8:04 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Expensive vs inexpensive components
> Dave, > > Yup, same clubs. Shafts and grips were from Hireko, heads from another > supplier. The clubs seem to play better every week. I ripped something in my > left shoulder a week and a half ago (probably anti-rejection drug related) > and am having problems swinging the longer irons, but the wedges continue to > be dead straight where I aim them...very unusual for me. > > I believe Dan Neubecker described the NBP-COG alignment here a while > back....softest side of the shaft aligned with the head's center of > gravity...an idea proposed by Tom Wishon. As I remember it, Tom thought > there might be some merit in this alignment when he was doing some computer > modeling and mentioned it on one of the clubmaking forums. (Correct me if > I'm wrong, Tom.) Dan did a set of irons and was very impressed with the > results. Here's what he said: > > "Since I've started using these clubs my scores have been my best of the > year. I've had two under par rounds of 70 and 68, holed a 90yd SW for > eagle, chipped in several long ones for bird, etc. The day I shot the 68, I > left two puts within 1/2" of dropping and at least another two within 6", > dead center, so it was potentially better than the final score would > indicate. Whether any of this has to do with the specifics of the club > build (NBP/COG alignment, the rough MOI match,etc.) or is just a coincidence > only time will tell. FWIW, I have documented a significant increase in > greens hit and birdies made and my scores have been consistently lower. I > can't recall the greens hit change, but I was averaging about 1 birdie per > round before and about 4 per round since. My irons before had steel TT TX90 > S flex, trimmed soft about two steps, with the same heads." > > Now, is that as good as any informercial you've heard, or what! :-) Had to > try that one, so I built the inexpensive set to see how it would work for > me. For the last five years, aligning NBP at 9 o'clock (to target) on all > clubs, I had good solid hits and very accurate mid-irons, especially 6, 7 > and 8, but constantly struggled with directional accuracy with my wedges. > Long irons were almost all faded. I couldn't figure out why my swing was OK > for the mid-irons, but not for the longer or shorter clubs. After 62 years > of golf, I have a pretty consistent swing. Looking back, I don't know why I > didn't realize a shaft alignment for a lighter, longer, thinner 3-iron might > not work for a heavier, shorter, wider PW. I tried steel shafts, graphite > shafts, different length shafts, etc., all with the same results. Figured it > was just me getting old. > > Not any more. Though I don't begin to understand the physics behind NBP-COG, > it works for Dan, me and a first-year golfer friend named Harry who says he > ordinarily sprays the ball all over. He wanted to match a set of irons on > his Neufinder and called me with some questions. We talked about the NBP-COG > alignment and he built his set that way. The next day he called me to say he > had never hit the ball as straight as that round. Everything went where he > aimed it. Said he easily took 10 shots off his regular score. That was the > first week I tried my set, so I began to pay attention to the differences in > this set and my old ones...not only was I hitting the ball straighter, I was > actually drawing many iron shots (I almost never did that unless > intentionally set-up for a hook.), ball flight was lower and stronger. Only > negative seemed to be that I was chunking a few more shots...short and > straight where I aimed them. But, by the third week playing the new > alignment, the chunks were far fewer. Then, I tore up my shoulder, so my > observations are now waiting on the my slow healing. > > NBP-COG is fast and simple. Find and mark the NBP on a piece of masking tape > around the shaft...don't bother with the spine. Mark the reverse side, 180� > from the NBP. If you position your masking tape the same on every shaft, > you can make a marking guide to do this accurately with a piece of old > graphite shaft cut exactly in half. Prep shaft tip, install ferrule and > epoxy on the head. Lay the shaft on your bench or a table top with the head > hanging over one end and actual NBP straight down...use the reverse side > mark as your guide.Tape the shaft so it can't roll, or just do all clubs and > clamp a light board over the set to hold them all in place. Gravity will > pull the COG straight down and align it with the shaft NBP. Let the epoxy > harden and you've got it. I notice that on a 3-iron, in playing position, > the NBP is about 12:30 and on a PW the NBP is about 2 o'clock. Every iron > has a unique alignment which corresponds to the head's center of > gravity...unlike NBP to target on every club. Maybe that does make the > difference in accuracy...at least, it seems to make a difference. > > I hope everybody will try this alignment and report on their results. > > Bernie > Writeto: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Rees" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 4:22 PM > Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Expensive vs inexpensive components > > > > Hey Bernie, > > > > What's NBP-COG alignment? > > > > Are these the same clubs you talked about earlier that was built with > > components from Hireko? > > > > -Dave > >
