I agree, but I'd also add that if you have sufficient parallel tip section, you can also do some tip trimming to get all three to match on the same flex line. If you look at a shaft as being in three sections....a parallel tip section, a tapered center section, and a parallel butt section, the objective is to take a section from that overall length that has the flex that you want to achieve. For a given shaft length, taking less tip trim (which implies more butt trim) means a softer shaft, while taking more tip trim (which implies less butt trim) results in a stiffer shaft.
Royce
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2004 10:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: Conversion factors
In a message dated 4/13/2004 5:53:26 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Good idea...I purchased 3 Graffaloy Powerlite wood shafts on Ebay, 1 S, 1 R, and 1 A. I built the S shaft into a 1-wood and I want to match the A&R shafts on a 3&5 set, but the charts say I can only butt trim, is there any way to match these shafts, preferably as R flex?
The best way to do it would be to use the A on the 1, the R on the 3, and the S on the 5.
David
Royce is right,
Years ago when so many people were reshafting their Big Bertha's with Pro Lites, Grafalloy experienced a lot of breakage so they reinforced the tip section and re named them Pro Lite +'s.
At this point they said our shafts are butt cut only because tipping even though the parallel section may have allowed for it may have brought the un reinforced area closer to the hosel and made them more prone to breakage, so any Grafalloy product that says butt cut only that has been tipped will not be covered under warranty, and further many of their products only have a 2" parallel tip section.
I don't know the tip section on the Power lite but you could measure it or look it up, but tipping will void the warranty.
David
