Well its probably too late but . . .
Before removing the screws make a sketch of the bottom of the club with circles drawn for screw locations. Remove the screws and stick them through the paper in the corresponding locations you drew.
When replacing the screws make sure there's no gunk on the threads or in the holes in the head. Use a needle to scrape out the threaded holes in the head. Make certain the sole plate is securely set on the head. Then start replacing the screws. You may need a little lubricant like Vaseline to help get the screws seated. If they don't go completely flush, well, there's always the good ol' carpenter's screwdriver . . . a hammer. Set the head on a soft surface like a folded towel. Tap the screw head gently to get it as close to flush as possible, then do what the original builder did, grind the head flush with your ScotchBrite wheel or with a fine grit belt on the sander.
TFlan
----- Original Message ----- From: "Graham Little" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 6:59 AM
Subject: ShopTalk: Screws
Gentlemen
I've only done a couple of re-shafts on old wood drivers. I always have trouble with the screws in the sole of the clubs. I've used Philips head screwdrivers but often they will turn causing burring. In the last one I ground off the tip of a Philips so that it would seat down better but still not great.
I've heard that the older Reed and Prince or Frearson bits are better for these jobs. Is this right? If so, where can I get some? If not, any tips?
Cheers Graham
