Hello Reid, and all! Thank you for the detailed description of what you've done, Reid. I have a good idea of your setup, but I've got a couple of comments and need some minor clarification.
> The name brand it Spring Dale Distilled Water and I've been getting it > at Krogers. There address is Clearidage Springs, Waverly Tennessee, 37185. Thanks! We've got Krogers' here! > In place of R1 on the circuit right now I have 5 10 megohm 1/4 watt > resistors The timing resister, R1, is 5 10 meg resisters in series, for a total of 50 meg? It works, as you've demonstrated, but I've allways hated using resister values that large in timing circuits like this. Issues of temperature stability, noise immunity, and the like (he says while waving his hands around in an attempt to mystify the audience and avoid any further questions on the subject). :^) Use a quality tantalum electrolytic cap of, say, 50 or 100 uF and you'd drop the resistance value to something more reasonable (at least toward the few megohm range). You might even be able to use a standard electrolytic. The spec. sheet for the 555 should give you the equation for interval as a function of C1 and R1/R2. > VERY IMPORTANT!!! COVER THOSE SOLDER JOINTS! They are 110v AC > and could be deadly if touched and even worse if wet and touched! Try using heat-shrink tubing, also available from Radio $hack. Slip a 1 to 2 inch piece over the wires before soldering them together, then slide it over the joint and heat with a hair dryer or (carefully) with a match or cigarette lighter. It's like your soda straw idea, only neater. By the way, the best splice for joining two wires end-to-end is a lineman's splice. Strip the ends and bend each into an "L" shape. Hook the two "L's" over each other and wrap the wires, each around the *other* wire's straight part. It goes together real fast, and you can, in a pinch, avoid soldering *as long as you're not going to pull on the wires*. Soldering is *good*. Please do put it all in a project box when you've stabilized the design. :-o > Build the circuit "Voltage Tripler" page 102 of the book > Plug in the transformer and test the voltage at the + and - > ends of the circuit labled OUTPUT (3 Vin) in the book. You > should have 75v DC. 75 volts!? Cool. What is the output voltage under load? (When you're actually making CS.) What kind of meter are you using to measure the voltage? I don't have the circuit diagram to look at, so I'm wondering: Is the output filtered DC or straight rectified (pulsating). In other words, is there a large value electrolytic capacitor across the voltage multiplier output to smooth out the ripple? > Clip the gator clips to the rods and insert them into the glass > 1/2 inch apart. > ... a cloud of white or brownish looking smoke in the water. Do you find that the *color* of the "smoke" is highly dependent on the electrode spacing? I got a brown color when they were about 1/2" apart yesterday (using no electrolyte solution and cooking for an hour), and *white* when they were even slightly farther apart! > It should be stable for about 1 week but more testing needs to > be done to verify that. Agreed. I think being able to make a small batch, or using lower concentration and taking larger amounts would be less wasteful. Of course, given how cheap this stuff is to make, what's wasteful? > Other things I plan to add to the project is a 555 push button > timmer circuit, a fan or something to stir the solution as it makes, > and put it all in a project box with a plugin for the silver circuit. > This way I can also add a beck (or bare) plugin device using > the 25v transformer. One approach is to find one of those wall cube type transformers that outputs 12 or 18 volts ac and use that. Now you don't have to put the power supply in the box with the rest of the circuit, and the high voltage stuff is isolated from the rest of the project. You'll have to add more stages to your voltage multiplier if you want the same output from a lower voltage transformer, though. > Last test that I can afford is going to be for ppm for what I > have now to see if they are around 40 ppm. My last one was 80 at > 20 minutes. If it's really that linear. Someone suggested that the rate might slow down over the duration of the process. > If anyone builds this and decides to do more testing please > let me know the results. I've got a few ideas along this line. I'll certainly let everybody know what I find out. > Another thing that I've found is making the CS without any > additives MIGHT give you the golden CS effect BUT there's a > simpler way and better way... The biggest annoyance I have is with all the visible solids created this way. When I used a drop or two of saline and an electrode spacing of over an inch, I got grey or whitish "smoke", but absolutely *none* of the "fern-like" solids. I wonder if there's a way to get good particle size without all of the solids and the need to filter the product. > The object is to make the same stuff each time. Yo! Thanks for the report, Reid. Good work! Mike [Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian] [[email protected] ] [Speaking only for himself... ]
