If you have the meter hooked up in series and electrodes in water, it
won't "draw" more than just a few milliamps as the resistance of the water
will limit the current...so, it doesn't matter if the amp rating of the
transformer is one half amp or ten thousand amps.
If the current draw exceeds the rating of the transformer, the transformer
burns up...anything less than that is fine.
Hooking up an ammeter in parallel is a dead short that will definitely
exceed some thing, some where... and what ever that is, that part WILL let
the smoke out ...the smoke that all electrical circuits must have inside to
keep working.
Fuses let smoke out real easy by design.
PS An unregulated 24 volt 500 mA AC to DC wall wart probably puts out more
like 40 volts at the loads you are working with.
An AC to AC unit may be as high as 100 volts peak to peak and deliver
that to your parts.
Ode
At 07:11 PM 12/20/2007 -0600, you wrote:
LOL!
Last time I dead shorted something was maybe 15 years ago when I was
installing a new elec box behind my stove. That was a stupid thing to do
too. Then I kept on resetting the circuit breaker until I broke that! I
finally called the electrician to come out and tell me where I went wrong
(and I don't mean in my childhood). Sometimes my brain just goes on
vacation, I have no excuse.
I replaced the fuse and my meter works again. That's good- I guess I quit
while I was not too far behind, I didn't fry the whole unit. I am glad I
asked.
The wall wart says it is a class 2 power supply, input 120V AC 60hz 20 w,
output 24V DC 500mA. I did not realize there was a difference in those
small units used to power all kinds of gadgets around the house. I have
not looked at them closely. I thought transformers were more for high
voltage applications, like neon signage and such. I do have one of those
too, but they scare me.
My regular 3 battery setup works fine. I was trying to see where to set
the potentiometer to keep the current controlled with an AC to DC power
supply. I just looked at my meter, and it says right on it the max for
that setting is 400mA. Darn it. If I hook it up to the other lead, it
will measure up to 10A, so I guess that is the way to go, then when I get
the pot. set, so the current is low, maybe then I can move the lead to the
other side.
Kathryn
On Dec 20, 2007, at 6:41 PM, Wayne Fugitt wrote:
Kathryn,
I can't believe you wrote that message. <grin>
You had me fooled. I though you was a tech of sorts.
>>At 05:31 PM 12/20/2007, you wrote:
I was fooling around with a wall wart that is listed as 24V and 500mA,
and had it hooked up in series with my radioshack multimeter. It tested
as 30.6V, and after I switched it to mA, the meter failed.
The really good meters have a fuse in the current part of the
meter. Even then, you should know the range of your current meter and
the amount of current in the circuit you wish to measure. They are easily
replaceable by the user.
If you add the resistor as was suggested, the reading will be worthless
anyway. Sounds like this is all to complicated for you.
Maybe you should forget the whole smear. Current measurement is not for
everyone. Measuring the current in a CS batch is not like measuring the
maximum current of a power supply or transformer. You need to learn a
few terms, the right one.
A wall wart is not an acceptable term. You do not know if you have a
power supply or a transformer.
At least you stated, 24 V. another worthless term.
Wayne
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