An ion is an ion all day long and into the night.
One atom minus an electron by definition, only comes in one size no matter
who makes it or how... or it's not silver.

I remember 'Ole Bob' Berger.  He did a lot of different things....not all
of them the best.
 Copper and silver do not get along.
One day I dropped a small piece of shiny copper wire into a batch and a few
days later ALL the silver had coated it with fuzzy black balls of oxide
that smeared silver under pressure...no silver left in the water at all.

ode

On Thu, Apr 9, 2020 at 8:35 PM Douglas Haack <[email protected]> wrote:

> I can't answer that with any cerainty....my CS brewer, I get 5 litres in
> 100 minutes....
>
> In my experience and I've nebulised for 15 plus years...our domestic CS is
> fine....what U describe and I vaguely know about the product, is super
> expensive...CS must contact any bacteria or virus etc....contact, contact,
> contact, our domestic ions are NOT the smallest -- U ahve to use it more
> often maybe -- I won't be buying the expensive stuff ever...My son does or
> ahs and he has not reported any miracles....
>
>
>
> On Friday, 10 April 2020, 9:52:04 am AEST, Robert Banever <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Hello Group,
>
>       I make my own ionic silver at 10ppm using a wonderful Silver Puppy
> machine.  It's pretty much a set it and forget it device.  Every batch
> comes out the same with a crystal clear look.  Takes about 8 - 9 hours to
> make a quart.  My question is this; is there any difference between the
> solution I'm making  and the much advertised Silver Sol Ag4O4 made by
> American Biotech Labs?  I get great results using my home made silver but
> am curious to know if there are any differences physically or
> therapeutically between the two.  Thanks so  much for a wonderful group.
> Just FYI... I take 2 TB daily, 1 in the AM and 1 in the PM, keeping it in
> my mouth for a few minutes before swallowing to get the ions absorbed
> before hitting the stomach.  I also nebulize with it for a minute or two a
> couple of times a day.  Doing that got rid of a terrible bronchitis I had
> for 7 weeks.  It was gone in less than one!
>
>       Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Douglas Haack
> Sent: Apr 9, 2020 4:05 PM
> To: Silverlist Post
> Subject: CS>My unique CS maker....with a SIMPLE STIRRING mechanism.
>
> The IMPORTANCE of monitoring the increasing MilliAmps in your Brew
> cycle....
>
> Years ago "Ole Bob" Berger RIP, designed a CS maker unit of -- 6 x A's and
> 6 x C's -- in a circular pattern of 4 inch diameter... centre -- have a 1.5
> volt motor centered, the protruding axel has a stiff wire (non metal)
> covering (in my case the hollow covering slips onto the axel and a tiny
> ring of copper wire is carefully secured/twisted with pliers, thus the
> copper is stretched to hold the "Stirrer", permanently in place on the
> axel and it works!!).
>
> I use 34 volts power supply DC (the amps are almost at zero) for my 12
> sliver thin rods. The 1.5 volt motor is 15 years old now and I use up to
> 10/12 volts to spin at fast stirring rate to agitate 6 litres...the motor
> takes this higher voltage...I use a separate  Wall-Wort dial-able voltage
> unit...with an attached digital read-put...or U can use D-Cell 1,5 volt
> battery, I've tried that and works well...
>
>
> Have a multi-meter (Bob's instructions) in the power circuit, to monitor
> the Milliamps in real-time (can be switched on and off), this indicates
> what's happening in the CS brew/distilled water etc -- I dope the 6 litres
> 2ppm d-water with 200ml of CS used/saved for this purpose to "START" the
> electrolysis process quickly -- 20 years ago people were using salt as a
> starter!!! This a dire No-No!!! today we are smarter...
>
> Monitoring the Milliamps as they increase in the brew cycle, allows U to
> stop the process B4 U "over-cook" (this is trial and error and U will
> over-cook!! Until U  have "graphed/carefully observed" your voltage and
> time and find the "ideal brew time" in relation to TIME/Voltage/PPM with
> your TDS meter) and if the brew turns darker (after a few days), not good
> and I don't sue it... a nice light white Wine color is OK -- CLEAR is best
> I find, just my preference...!!!
>
> Bob wrote a small book (he was an Electro Engineer), on his passing I
> tried to buy the edition from the family -- ahd some great information.
> simple but technical --- I offered $2K (15 years ago), they refused and the
> book has disappeared... I have a copy somewhere...It would have kept his
> name alive...
>
> My contribution after 20 plus years...
>
> In SILvation...Douglas H -- Australia
>
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