## First, let me say that you have developed an exceptionally good
generator. You are on my links page and I will now have to update it.
[in light of the many things I've seen on this list, I need to update the
whole darned thing]
BTW, Trem You may want to redo over your tech page so it will explain
your new philosophy on stirring, color and Tyndal more accurately.
Because of the set point I use, mine won't go much beyond 17PPM as per
the meter by doing a reset procedure. I can set the initial point
higher..but not with a switch. I haven't because of the 'iffyness' at the
higher concentrations where the CS will stay clear most of the time but
sometimes will turn pale yellow after a few days. [Has anyone figured out,
specifically, why this happens sometimes and not always?]
I use a spacing of 1 3/8 inches set parallel and whetted rod length of
3 inches on a 12 gauge rod along with a shut down set point of 6 volts.
current set at .8 Ma...8 oz batches. If I bend the rod ends away from each
other, the times and concentrations increase.
Using preheated water [90-100 deg] without resetting, [1.5 hours average
process time] I get a fairly consistent 8-9PPM, very clear with almost no
Tyndal.
Using cool water [70-75 deg] heating, I get a consistent 10-11 PPM ,
clear, with a fairly heavy Tyndal. [1.5 hours ave]
Using cool water without heating, I get 10-11 PPM with a small black
deposit formation on the bottom of the container..which makes a good case
for gentle stirring either thermal or mechanical. Fairly heavy Tyndal [2
hours ave]
A hint folks: Never use the electrodes to stir the water.
We may have different meters too, [Hanna DiST1] so the comparative
numbers are up for question and my meter reads about a 3rd of what my lab
reports say. What's the real scoop? I don't know.
A heater is easily made by cutting a 1 inch hole in a can and placing it
upside down on a night light. I looks really cool too! Hand stirring
takes a bit of attention. Stirring devices are far more complicated for the
home brewer. [Cudos to your new generator! I certainly don't disagree that
mechanical stirring is the way to go..unless, perhaps ,using a rotating
disc electrode]
I tried the 1/4 inch x .013 inches silver ribbon but found it too flimsy
to maintain a consistent distance, difficult to clean without distorting
and difficult to make easily replaceable or swapable with other metals.
Also, because of edge discharge characteristics, the flat ribbon doesn't
have an evenly distributed current density. Even round wire will tend to
discharge more ions at the ends.
But, in effect, flat ribbon may discharge somewhat faster because of all
those edges. We both get about 3 PPM per hour?
You don't get variations with water temperature? Cold house vs warm house?
Anyhow, Trem
Good job!
At 07:02 PM 7/9/00 -0700, you wrote:
Hi List,
Not to argue with you Ken but our auto shutoff generator makes crystal
clear CS up to 20-25 PPM as measured with a Hanna PWT using the mechanical
stirring motor we have incorporated into our newest generator. The CS
does not get any color and has an almost imperceptible Tyndall
effect. And it's a lot easier than having to heat water or rig up some
kind of thermal hot plate. Most people aren't up for that. Many
experimenter types are but I think most people aren't.
And, cooling water that has been heated is really problematic. What about
people that live in cold or warm houses? How hot is hot to start
with. How cool does it have to get before thermal currents cease to help,
etc. If we're looking for repeatability and ease of use, a motor with a
constant stirring speed and a constant current regulator with auto shutoff
is about as good as you can get with LVDC process.
Sorry to toot our own horn but that's how I see it.
Trem
www.silvergen.com
Constant Current Colloid Generators
At 09:44 PM 7/9/00 -0700, you wrote:
While mechanical stirring does seem to get very good results, thermal
stirring via convection currents helps a lot and is a lot simpler.
Either preheat the water to 80 -100 degrees and let cool while running
the generator, or start with room temp water and place it on a small
heater such as a 4 watt night light bulb.
Letting hot water cool while in process tends to give that light Tyndal
Effect but limits the max concentration [with my auto off unit] to about
8-9 PPM as read by a PPM meter.
Check out
www.colloidal-silver.com
and click on the merchants directory for a fairly complete list of
generator makers.
The only one I recommend against is the last...Utopia
They are very proud of the brown sludge their generator makes for some
reason. They use 3 nine volt batteries, 2 silver rods and nothing
else. I think they recommend using sea salt as well. A no no.
With their set up, there's also a possibility of getting some lead and
tin into the mix as the wires have exposed solder on the ends. Not
extremely likely, but possible.
You can do something similar for a lot less. You can make fairly good
CS with such a unit but it takes a lot of care and experimentation. I
doubt you will be able to go stronger than 3 to 5 PPM without making
yellow to brown colored CS.
k...@czen
At 03:28 PM 7/9/00 -0500, you wrote:
Okay. What is the Tyndall effect? All I could find is that Tyndall(John)
was an Irish physicist. Also, where might one purchase a mechanism for
stirring?
>Is it John?
>
>Stirring really helps distribute the ionic cloud away from the anode
as the
>atoms are being released during production. If you can get them disbursed
>in the water with stirring, they tend not to agglomerate. It makes a much
>better product. It will be crystal clear with no color if you keep it
>under 15-20 PPM. Will also have a minimal Tyndall effect.
>
>Trem
>www.silvergen.com
>Constant Current Colloid Generators
>
>
>At 03:02 PM 7/9/00 -0500, you wrote:
>>Is stirring necessary?
>>
>>
>>
>> >JO\ohn;
>> >
>> >Make your own genterator, all you need is a DC power source, a digital
>> >multimeter, stirring motor, and two pieces of #14 sliver .999 or
better and
>> >some clip leads.
>> >
>> >Contact me off list and I can probvide more detailed info.
>> >
>> >"Ole Bob"
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >--
>> >The silver-list is a moderated forum for discussion of colloidal
silver.
>> >
>> >To join or quit silver-list or silver-digest send an e-mail message to:
>> >[email protected] -or- [email protected]
>> >with the word subscribe or unsubscribe in the SUBJECT line.
>> >
>> >To post, address your message to: [email protected]
>> >Silver-list archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html
>> >List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
>>
>>
>>
Tired of buying questionable qaulity colloidal silver at high heathfood
store prices? Make your own high quality Colloidal Silver at home with
this automatic process, current controlled colloidal silver generator.
http://www.silverpuppy.com
Tired of buying questionable qaulity colloidal silver at high heathfood
store prices? Make your own high quality Colloidal Silver at home with
this automatic process, current controlled colloidal silver generator.
http://www.silverpuppy.com
