I do not intend to initiate or exacerbate
excessive dialog.....nor to become embroiled in adversarial contentions
favoring bubbling over stirring----as being more advantageous in
supporting CS generation.  We have found both methods to be quite
successful.  However, I do believe the more vocal detractors may,
possibly, be overzealous in their condemnation of bubbling as an
effective support function for generating  acceptable "home-use" quality
CS.
                    Frankly, we have been unable to prove a superiority
of stirring over bubbling----for size, ppm, or reaction speed----among
the LVDC methods we employed.
Others may have achieved different results.  With these preliminary
considerations in mind, I offer the following commentary....especially
directed toward those actively considering the prospects of utilizing a
bubbler as an ancillary protocol.
                    Following is a brief outline for a useful bubbler
system, determined by one of our investigators.....to be of measureable
value for supporting satisfactory CS generation.  Our best results
accrued from the following general arrangement:  A conventional LVDC
system including a D.C. Power source of 30 vdc or higher (40 to 46 volt
range proved superior....but not an absolute requirement).  No voltage
source lower than 24 vdc was utilized.
                    The D.C. Power Supply was connected through a
conventional Digital Multimeter configured to the appropriate milliamp
scale, thence on to one of the silver electrodes....then completing the
circuit by connecting the remaining D.C. power lead to the other silver
electrode.
                    The bubbler system used included the following parts
(all obtainable from Walmart) :  One small Aqua Culture Air Pump (5 to
10 gallon tank size)...about $6.00.  Aquarium Gang Valve (#c9047/2)
about $2.50;  Aquarium Bubble Stone #ASC-1(B)...about $1.50;  Silicone
Airline Tubing #JM005......8' by 2.44mm.....about $1.25.
                Directions for employment:  Connect about 3' of the
tubing (or as desired) to The air pump outlet;  connect the gang valve
inlet to the remaining end;  select another length of tubing (e.g. 2' to
3') and connect one end to one of the gang valve outlets (blocking the
other by closing its valve);  connect the remaining end to the
bubble-stone.  Locate the bubble-stone between the electrodes---at or
near the bottom of the liquid container.  After starting the generator,
plug in the air pump and adjust the position of the bubble stream
between the electrodes and adjust the gang valve to the desired output
volume.
                Allow system to operate until the multi-meter is reading
the desired milliampere current  (usually between 2.0 to 6 m.a. for our
purposes [the list  exhibits considerable controversy over current
levels---we have not found any reasonable current level to degrade the
solution to consequential levels])........then interrupt the generation
process and test for desired solution strength or utilize a laser
pointer to confirm Tyndall effect.
                If stronger solution is desired wipe electrodes
clean----even if gross accumulation is not readilly visible to the naked
eye....and re-energize the generation system.
                For the more discriminating among you, the use of two
coffee filters to cover the entire outside surface of the air pump may
be employed to serve as an effective pre-filter.  Construction of this
element is accomplished by placing one filter over the bottom half and
the other over the top-half (clam shell type) of the air pump and
securing with four rubber bands (2 lengthwise and 2 across).  This
system facilitated the generation of high quality CS with little
detectable compromise in either composition, concentration or size
parameters....when compared to other ancillary amendments.  Size samples
were subjected to Scanning Electron Microscopy.
                    My apologies for such a lengthy post......however it
is almost as challenging for me to write, as it is for most to read.
                                Sincerely,  Brooks Bradley.
    p.s.  Some, inconsequential, "plate-out" may occur on the silicone
tubing....especially noticeable for those using pre-heated water.  A
majority of our "do-it-yourself" staffers do use pre-heated water for
accelerating the early process stage.  Additionally, a simple method for
cleaning the bubble stone and/or removing loose residue, occasionally
(every couple of months), is to submerge it in muriatic (Hcl) acid for
about 5 seconds, removing and placing in a container of distilled water
and forcing air through it for about 3+ minutes.  Use proper caution as
this acid is a severe tissue burner.


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