At 11:40 AM 9/29/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Ode Coyote wrote:
>
>> Personally, I don't see a thing wrong with flexible plastic pipes.
>> They don't tend to break, crack or permanently swell when frozen, erode
with acidic water, clog with calcium, clank with pressure surges. It costs
a pile less to buy and install and formulations been changed since the near
distant past to be chlorine resistant.
>
>I agree that the PCV pipes are a good way to go.  I have never experienced
any detectable outgassing with these pipes. But they will break when they
freeze, I had to replace 6 or 7 of them last winter when a gas line broke
and the heat in the pump house went out
>without me knowing it.
##  I've had the same prob with PVC, like totally shattered!
>
>>
>> If you spring for teflon, that's about as inert and tough as it
gets...but pricy. [Maybe not more after installation labor than copper.
Copper is a LOT of 'work']
>
>How the heck do you work with teflon, nothing will adhear to it, and it
won't melt.
 ## It's standard flex pipe /fitting and clamp ring stuff.
 The newer translucent flex pipe is very good and easy to install.  I have
the older grey flexpipe in my house with copper fittings.  There was a big
lawsuit over the even older system that used grey plastic fittings that
would apparently get brittle with exposure to chlorine.
 The grey pipe looks a lot like C-PVC for hot water..very flexible but not
waxy like ABS.
 In the old bus, I used to heat water with a copper coil around the wood
stovepipe with an old beer keg as a hot water tank.
 One day the C-PVC lines froze solid and the woodstove heater built up
steam presssure when I fired the stove up for it's morning infra red
emmitting floor dance and ruptured the pipe. [I usually used used motor oil
for that, but kerosene does the same thing..an Atlanta Laundry stove has an
impressive draw hooked up to 8 ft of straight 6" stove pipe]
 The pipe ran behind a shelf full of clothing...Sounded like a shotgun and
blew jeans all over the place. 
[Blewjeans?]  Very stretched out section of pipe, no shrapnel.
>
>>
>> And too much copper can be a health problem. [Fairly rare that it IS a
problem, but if you're getting blue stains in the sink, guess where your
pipes are going.]
>>
>
>Acid water can sure do a number on copper.  If one is getting that, it
would be wise to pur an alkalanizing filter on it.
>
>>
>> If you're going with silver liner to protect 'you' somehow, by consuming
silver, it might kill your septic tank and the silver won't last in the
pipes. So, eventually back to plain copper... along with a dead tank.
>
>The silver should be inert.  Not much is going to react with it, but it
could kill bacteria on contact, and prevent any bacteria growth inside the
pipes. I would not expect any of it to react or dissolve unless the water
is very acidic.
##  Good point

Ode
>
>Marshall
>
>>
>>
>> PS, don't pour CS down the drain or down the well.
>>
>> Ode
>>
>> At 02:34 PM 9/28/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>> >>>>
>>
>>      Ode,
>>
>>      I have a question, I am replacing my water pipes can one obtain
silver lined pipes or is this necessary????
>>
>>      Thanks
>>
>>      Mary
>>
>>           -------------- Original message from Ode Coyote
<[email protected]>: --------------
>>
>>           > If so, something else made it precipitate or it was
something other than
>>           > silver carbonate.
>>           > Do dissolved silver oxides and hydroxides 'displace' the
solubility of
>>           > silver carbonate?
>>           >
>>           > Ode
>>           >
>>           >
>>           > At 01:34 PM 9/27/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>           > >
>>           > >FYI, silver carbonate has a solubility in cold water of 32
ppm. Acros
>>           > Chemical
>>           > >lists silver carbonate as light sensitive.
>>           > >
>>           > >Marshall
>>           > >
>>           > >Ode Coyote wrote:
>>           > >
>>           > >> One day I dipped the tip of a toothpick into baking soda
and mixed it into
>>           > >> the distilled water.
>>           > >> Everything when fine, nice clear CS at 20 PPM..OK cool.
>>           > >>
>>           &! gt; >> But then a few hours later it all went dense milky
white.
>>           > >> After a few hours exposure to light, stuff started
settling out and going
>>           > >> darkish grey.
>>           > >>
>>           > >> I tested for insoluable silver carbonate by using
distilled white vinegar
>>           > >> to turn it into soluable silver acetate.
>>           > >> Everything went clear with no TE.
>>           > >>
>>           > >> Light sensitive silver carbonate confirmed?
>>           > >>
>>           > >> Ode
>>           > >>
>>           > >> At 05:02 PM 9/26/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >Hello:
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >Is there anything to be really concerned about in adding
Sodium Bicarb to
>>           > >> >Distilled water in small amounts, say to increase PPM to
5 before
>>           > starting
>>           > >> >the electrolytic process for CS? I had been using 25% CS
( 1000 ml Starter > >> >plus 3000 ml Distilled) from the previous ! batches
but have found that
>>           > >> >starting with 5 ppm Sodium Bicarb greatly speeds the
process up and the CS
>>           > >> >that comes out is clear and tastes like good CS and it
works.
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >Ian
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >--
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>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >--
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>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >
>>           > >> >--
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>>           > >
>>           > >
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>>           > >
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>>           >
>>           >
>>
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>>
>> <<<<
>>
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>
>
>
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>


-- 
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.11.8 - Release Date: 9/27/2005