You can heat the water in order to raise it's conductivity to get things
moving faster at the start.
As the water cools, it's conductivity from heat goes down as the silver
increases it..and there are some thermal convection currents to stir
it. Overall current density stays about the same.
If you KEEP the water at near boiling, agglomeration from over energized
particle and ion collision is practically a given, runaway is accelerated
even more and has more of a detrimental effect at lower concentrations. [a
triple whammy]
Even a current controlled generator will make yellow CS in very hot water
more often than not.
The energetic threshold is somewhere around 110 to 120 deg F.
While current density is very low, it matters less. There are fewer
particles and ions being produced 'to' collide.
Current control has a ramp up to plateau curve.
Shorten that ramp, shorten the time and no harm done. Once the plateau
has been reached, adding heat is pointless...adding too much heat can be
harmful.
The ideal thermal convection stir yields zero net temperature gain with a
balanced heat soak and heat shed.
That takes some doing to get it perfect, but it's pretty easy to stay
under threshold.
Non current control [voltage controlled] has no plateau and the ramp keeps
going more and more vertical. Add heat and it does that even
faster. Adding heat to the flattish part of the curve at the start will
reduce the time it takes to go towards the vertical and not hurt anything.
Starting with hot water and letting it cool works OK most of the
time...if the process doesn't accelerate faster than the cooling rate.
Starting with 'warm' water is a lot safer.
Color is by no means any gauge of PPM.
10 deg F increase = about 3 uS conductivity gain.
A PWT will not compensate for water temperature until both the meter and
the water are at the same temperature.
The water warms the meter as the meter cools the water and vice versa,
meanwhile, the readout "hunts" all over the place.
Ode
At 06:48 PM 12/30/2005 -0800, you wrote:
Yes, I filtered the gray batch, but it was still gray for a few days
before it got more yellow. The instructions that came with the machine
said to filter in 5natural colored filters put together I think. When you
make CS in a gallon jar, do you use much longer or wider silver
bars? Seems it would take many times longer if you do it in a gallon jar
and I do it in a quart jar. Does anyone here heat the distilled water to
almost boiling first? I was told to do that by the guy who first told me
about CS and he's been making it about 8 years I think. It sure does make
it finish faster.
Pat
<http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=37474/*http://promo.yahoo.com/broadband/>Yahoo!
DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9 - Release Date: 12/29/2005
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.9 - Release Date: 12/30/2005
--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
To post, address your message to: [email protected]
Address Off-Topic messages to: [email protected]
The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
