14 PPMs on a TDS meter is around 28 uS [units of conductivity] which is
28 PPM in "silver" water.
TDS meters are fudged to read salt water and the two are by no means the
same.
Further, TDS meters are notoriously inaccurate over any measurement span,
so that 4 "PPM" could well really be 12 even 18 uS which is 12 - 18 PPM in
"silver water".
The TDS 3 meter is better than most but still has accuracy and resolution
limitations. There should have been a Meter sheet that explains how to use
the various meters and describes the limits.
The machine turns off at around 16 "uS".
Depending on batch size, that translates to around 10-12 PPM after it
stabilizes, conductivity drops and a meter reading means something. [NO
meter reads "PPM" ]
There is a switch on top to allow making it up to and beyond 20 PPM and
from the sound of it, you went as high as 28+ PPM where energetic anomalies
set in starting at around 25 uS. Going higher than 30 uS [as read by a
meter] gets extremely slow and the drop increases. Even an accurate meter
starts reading way low with a high nonconductive particulate content not
showing up at all.
If for some reason the TE gets heavier but the meter stays the same, the
silver content is still going up at a constant rate as mandated by Faradays
laws but the meter can't read it. 'Probably" something in the water is
kicking things into making particles out of ions. The smallest touch of
H2O2 would do that and other impurities will too. How was the water
sterilized? [Ozone? or another way.]
A TDS meter isn't all that good a meter and had you read about it, you'd
know to double a TDS meters reading, then take that as a broad
approximation....no TDS meter is a great meter.
A conductivity meter such as a Hanna PWT or COM-100 is by FAR more accurate.
That info is posted by others in a number of places and I make no secret
of it.
Was your "broken" generator the one I replaced [free] all the short
circuiting silver plated parts on from repeatedly filling the container
too high? If so, have you stopped doing that? A silver coating will most
certainly mess it up and all that energy will just make the coating thicker
while putting very little into the water.
I've repaired 2 that were like that in the past 2 years and 2 or 3 others
that got wet inside somehow, despite all the seals and vapor barriers, and
were run that way for a long time.
As advertised says that going to 20 PPM and beyond is possible, not
"automatic".
You could buy a different generator with less versatility for more
money. With most, 20+ PPM is not possible.
I'll even refund your money "For no reason at all" and forget to look at
a calender so you can get started, but you'll probably find yourself with
the same problems because it sounds like you are misunderstanding a few
things about the process and the instruments and the Pup IS working as
advertised.
Ode
At 01:19 AM 8/28/2006 -0700, you wrote:
"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w =
"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word">
Hello all,
I've had the Silver Puppy for about a year and a half and have never been
able to make CS stronger than 14ppms.
It turns off after about 4 hours and instructions said that it turns off
at 20ppms, but that is totally untrue. When it turns off, my TDS meter
shows "4." If I switch over to manual mode and turn it back on for
2-4-6-10 hours it NEVER goes above 7ppms however many hours i run it.
I'm really unhappy with this thing, I've already replaced it once because
it just stopped working all together but it still just doesn't work as it
was represented.
Has anyone any thoughts on this? Is there something I'm doing wrong or
missing?
If this is how it is, I'm getting another type of unit. What would be
your recommendations?
Thank you,
Angel
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