Hey, Gary, Missed the tail end of your original post. So I would have modified my reply a bit...
I think you may be onto something. Total current is proportional to total released silver, and if the volume increases you will dilute the solution and current will be slower coming to the max level. If I remember correctly, Ole Bob indicated, as a rule of thumb, that you could run a voltage regulated CS cell and stop when the current was about 1.5 to 2 ma per square inch of anode wetted area and get a passable Colloidal Silver. Dan -----Original Message----- From: Garry Hobart [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 1:40 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: CS>Battery CS Maker Actually after some testing I found that there was very little variation due to silver area/distance/water volume, which surprised me. The variation would be on the order of 5-10% in a reasonable sized container, say up to 1 gallon. So if I am making 9-11ppm cs do I really care for home use? It works a lot better than by guess and by gosh. If I were making a retail product I would be considerably more concerned with its analysis. For home use it will make very good, repeatable quality, crystal clear cs, which is more than can be said for some of the commercial machines available. (That specifically excludes the machines being sold by the good folks on this list, which appear to be of very high quality. Heck I might even buy one if I ever get over the Frakensteinian feel of my apparatus - lol) The voltage used in the ohm meter has no effect since you are measuring amperage, not ohms (no power applied to the test leads when measuring amperage or voltage). You are simply using voltage & amperage to solve for resistance. It works very well for me and I feel very comfortable in recommending it. Especially to someone using a simple battery pack setup. The quality of their product will go up exponentially. The largest variable is the quality of the water btw. Using this setup will give you a very good indicator of the quality of the distilled water you are using. The lower your initial amperage reading the better the water is. Best wishes Garry -----Original Message----- From: Dan Nave [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 12:24 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: CS>Battery CS Maker I think that depends on the surface area of your electrodes among other things like their spacing and the voltage used in the ohmmeter. More surface area or closer electrodes gives more conduction / less resistance. It will work for your cell once you characterize it properly and keep all the same geometry. Dan -----Original Message----- From: Garry Hobart [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 10:45 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: CS>Battery CS Maker You can get a quick down and dirty approximation of 5ppm by making cs to 15,000ohms or 10ppm by making it to 10,000ohms. Buy an inexpensive digital volt/ohm meter, then measure your actual battery voltage. Use ohms law to calculate the amperage (calculators available on the web) for either 10K or 15K ohms. Put your ohm meter in your circuit in series, and set to Ma (milliamps) and run your batch until the number you are reading is the same as the one the calculator gave you. No more guessing. Also a fish tank bubbler or other stirring method would be a good idea. Use only distilled water of course. Good luck. Oh, I shut of the power and gently remove either of the wires. Not sure if it makes a difference but there is a slight potential there... + --------------------------------------o silver wire ___battery - ----------OHM METER-------------------o silver wire 36v @ 10Kohms = 3.6Ma 36v @ 15Kohms = 2.4Ma Here's an ohms law calculator http://www.mcsquared.com/ohmframe.htm -----Original Message----- From: joe bloggs [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 5:23 AM To: [email protected] Subject: CS>Battery CS Maker I'm saving up for a quality CS generator. In the meantime, I've rigged up a home made generator using four 9v batteries. I also need to buy a ppm reader, as I have no idea what I am producing. Anyway, here's the question. I followed the instructions from the silvermedicine website: http://www.silvermedicine.org/construction.html which said to remove the "negative" rod from the water first and then wait about two minutes before Gently removing the positive rod from the colloidal silver. Somewhere else I read that the 'positive' rod should be removed first and then the negative a few minutes after. Does anyone know which is the correct way of doing it? I've got loads of other questions too. Hope you lot are patient, LOL. On the Silvermedicine website, it said that to produce a quality 5ppm, you should time the process for 5 minutes FROM WHEN YOU SEE THE WHISPY BITS - which could take 15 or 20 minutes of nothing visible happening (I know that the process starts the minute the electrodes are connected, but this is not visible to the eye) However, when I shine a light on the water, I can see whispy bits after a few minutes, but without the light I can't see anything happening. So.... do I time the 5 minutes from when I see the whispy bits WITHOUT the light? Or do I time the 5 minutes from when I see the whispy bits using the light? Questions, questions. Sorry. I think this 5 minute timing depends upon NOT STIRRING. Am I right in thinking that if I stir, then it will take longer than 5 minutes? I know all of this is trial and error, and certain equipment is needed, but right now I feel that I am making this stuff blind and need loads of info. Frankie _________________________________________________________________ MSN Hotmail is evolving - check out the new Windows Live Mail http://ideas.live.co.uk -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: [email protected] Address Off-Topic messages to: [email protected] The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour <[email protected]>
