I thought we all had a long conversation not too long ago and was determined
that Lightning CAN NOT cause E.M.P.

Michael

----- Original Message -----
From: "Nish Park" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: [smartBridges] Grounding?!


> Wow. This are nice tips John. We will make sure to include them in our
> product documentation to help others. Thanks.
>
> Nish
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Hokenson
> Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2003 3:01 PM
> To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
> Subject: Re: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
>
> I've been involved with designing and installing communications systems
> for
> over thirty years, are here is my take on the proper installlation and
> grounding of the SmartBridge units (and WISP equipment in general)....
>
> TOWER TOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
>
> 1.    In any area that is prone to lightning, grounding and protection
> of
> the antenna port is a must.  With the units that are fed from the ground
> with PoE (power over ethernet) and an antenna jack, first--screw a high
> quality lightning supressor on the N-female jack on the radio--the
> Polyphaser PSX-ME is what I prefer.  It has a male connector to screw
> onto
> the radio and a female for attachment of the antenna cable.  Since the
> case
> of the radio is plastic and does not ground to the tower (not really a
> good
> idea in my opinion but we're stuck with it), use a grounding kit to
> securely
> bond the body of the protector to the metal leg of the tower.
> 2.    I am suspecting that many of the radio failures are due to induced
> emp
> from nearby lightning strikes on the ethernet cable itself which is
> acting
> as an antenna to pick up the pulse.  For this reason I suggest the use
> of
> outdoor shielded cat5--the kind with icky pick embedded in the inner
> layer
> among the pairs, a first pvc insulation layer, an aluminum jacket with
> additional icky pick and finally an outer PVC jacket.  At the radio end,
> terminate the connection as close as you can get it to the radio--the
> new
> style radios I would terminate it in the weatherproof splice box.  You
> will
> need a bonding kit to attach a ground wire to the aluminuum
> jacket--these
> are commonly made by 3M and available from Graybar.  Using a #10 or
> larger
> wire attached to the stud on the grounding kit, bond the shield to the
> leg
> of the tower, keeping the ground wire as short as possible.  The best
> way I
> have found to do this is to assemble the grounding kit to the shield
> about
> 6" from the end of the cable where the pairs will be attached, then
> slide
> some Panduit DB shrink with hot glue sealant inside over the splice and
> shrink it down to weather seal the bond.  Since you also need the ground
> for
> the antenna protector, you can clamp a phospher bronze ground clamp to
> the
> leg of the tower directly below the radio and attach both the ground
> from
> the antenna protector and the cat5 ground to the same point.  Graybar
> has
> the Panduit shrink and ground clamps as well.
> 3.    Install another bonding kit on the cat5 where it leaves the tower,
> again you can seal it with Panduit DB shrink.
> 4.    If the run up the tower is more than 150' (50M) or so, I would
> probably bond the shield in the middle of the run as well.
> 5.    Where the cat5 terminates, again bond the shield to a ground....#8
> or
> larger copper wire back to the tower ground is preferable, lacking that
> the
> building ground....and make sure someone has bonded that to the tower
> ground
> with #6 or larger copper.
> 6.    Lastly, between the end of the shielded cat5 and the PoE injector,
> install a good quality PoE surge suppressor--Motorola makes a nice one
> for
> their Canopy products and is available from Tessco for about $40.  Make
> sure
> the ground stud on it is tied to the same ground feeding the end of the
> cat5
> shield.
> 7.    Code generally requires that the protector beinstalled where the
> cat5
> enters the building, so the place to terminate the shielded cat5 and
> install
> the Motorola cat5 protector is on the outside of the wall, and
> transition
> there to normal cat5 in to your power injector.
>
> ROOFTOP ACCESS POINTS/BRIDGES
>
> 1.    Many times either an access point or cpe radio will be installed
> on
> the top of a commercial building or home.  The same rules apply with
> some
> modifications because of the installation.
> 2.    If it is a customer radio that is not as critical as an access
> point,
> you may choose to dispense with the lightning supressor on the
> antenna--but
> DO at the minimum bond the shield of the coax to the galvanized metal
> support mast or support structure or DSS mount.  One option for this
> would
> be to loosen the lock nut for the N female connector on the radio and
> install a piece of sheet metal under the nut to attach a ground
> wire--we've
> done this and it works well.
> 3.    You still need to use shielded cat5 and bond the shield to the
> common
> antenna ground point as described in the previous section on tower
> grounding.
> 4.    Since the antenna support is most likely not grounded in this
> instance, you need to attach a #6 copper wire to the support stucture
> (the
> 5/16 bolts securing the tripod to the mast is a good spot) and bring it
> down
> along with the cat 5 to where things enter the building.
> 5.    Attach the #6 wire to the ground lug on the cat5 protector, along
> with
> the cat5 shield, then continue to the closest attachment point to the
> building system ground.
>
> INDOOR ACCESS POINTS AND BRIDGES
>
> 1.    In those cases where the installation is using an indoor unit with
> coax out to an outdoor antenna, I would direct you to a typical
> installation
> of a certified SmartBridge CPE:
>         http://www.vircom.net/pictures/res-install/res-install.htm
> 2.    In the case of an indoor access point, the only change I would
> suggest
> is installation of a Polyphaser PSX instead of simply a bulkhead ground
> at
> the entrance point.
>
> Hope this helps a few of you out there avoid unnecessary failures.
>
> ==========================================
> John Hokenson, Operations Manager
> VIRCOM.NET
> reply to:  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 425-558-0674   bellevue
> 425-432-8172   king county
> 206-341-9421   seattle
> 800-806-7446   toll-free
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> WWW.VIRCOM.NET
> giving you the world since 1994
> ==========================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Berndt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 9:50 PM
> Subject: [smartBridges] Grounding?!
>
>
> > A bit of a mid-night rant here.
> >
> > I've been thinking on a lot of the failures we hear talked about here
> on
> > the list, the quesitons about lightning, potential lightning strikes,
> > lightning striking near by. Alot of the answers seem to be a
> combination
> of
> > finger crossing and some black magic.
> >
> > So what I'd like to see to rectify some of these issues is smartbridge
> > publish a document about proper grounding. Where do we need
> grounds/surge
> > protectors/lightning arrestors, the differences between them, etc.
> >
> > I know these things are all dictated by the local building code and
> the
> > like wherever you happen to be using the product. But how about some
> sort
> > of a document that is intended as a bare minimum/recommended practices
> > document to get all the installs to be put together in a fairly
> similar
> way
> > and help correct some of the new newbie mistakes and take a bit of the
> > black magic out of this.
> >
> > This could be a fairly simple diagram of a few different sample setups
> of
> > the outdoor equipment. I am especially interested in the total
> equipment,
> > is there a polyphaser in there? Should the cat5 be grounded when using
> > sheilded cat5, otherwise? Surge protector on the cat5? before/after
> the
> POE
> > device? etc etc.
> >
> > A recommended parts list wouldnt be horrible either. I do not want to
> see
> > this enforced, but more documentation and standardization would make
> things
> > clearer for everyone, provide a quick way to answer peoples questions
> and
> > maybe make everyones systems a bit more stable.
> >
> > Hope that made some degree of sense.
> >
> > Dave
> >
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