I would like to add a Passport Colorchecker or Datacolor SPyderCube to
that list. ;-)
But it's more or less the same setup as I have.
If you just need backplates, just shoot as much images as possible on
set with lots of overlap.
ICE, Hugin or Kolor Autopano will get you a great stitched backplate
from that set of images.
Rob
\/-------------\/----------------\/
On 2-12-2013 8:53, Nicolas Esposito wrote:
Hi Paul,
I currently shoot panoramas for hotels, pubs, apartments and outside
panos in generale and here is my gear/workflow:
Nodal Ninja head
Tripdo tripod
Canon 1100D
Samyang 8mm f3.5
Photomatix
PTGui
Panotour ( optional )
Usually I take 5 bracketed images ( +/- 2EV ) so I have a bigger light
range, then I merge the images into Photomatix and then I import the
processed images into PTGui
The only thing you need to take care of is the proper alignment of the
pano head combined with your lens, but you can find all the
informations online, so in less then 30 minutes you're good to go to
shoot panoramas properly
If you want to create a virtual tour you have to go with some specific
softwares ( Panotour, Tourweaver and so on )
I usually do 360°x180° with the nadir included ( which is a bit tricky
) but for less then 1.000€ I can say that the results are pretty good ;)
2013/12/1 Adam Seeley <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
Hi,
I haven't read the rest of the thread, but thought I'd chip
blindly in anyway.
For quick & easy just-in-case panoramas I use ICE (from Microsoft
Research that is).
http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/groups/ivm/ICE/
Free, quick and looks like it supports RAW images as well.
(You literally drag the images into the viewport & it does the rest)
A nodal head would be the best to avoid any parallax, but if most
of the detail is more distant it shouldn't matter too much.
Adam.
---------------------
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<http://www.linkedin.com/profile/view?id=21162305>
https://vimeo.com/adamseeley <https://vimeo.com/album/2280465>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Paul Griswold <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
*To:* "[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>"
<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>
*Sent:* Sunday, 1 December 2013, 21:42
*Subject:* Re: OT: shooting panoramas
Thanks guys -
Sorry if I wasn't clear in my description. I'm not advising
them, or consulting them on how to take or make panoramic
imagery. During some talks I mentioned that having panoramas
for the locations would be handy. Based on what I was told, I
don't think there's any reason for HDRI's for this project,
but having a panorama for each location could be helpful.
This isn't a VFX project, so matching the lighting exactly
isn't really a big issue - it's a documentary that might
involve some 3D motion graphics that need to live in the real
world. So having the graphics reflect the environment would
be nice, but IMHO it's not going to kill the project if it
doesn't happen.
Unfortunately just by mentioning the subject it opened a can
of worms where the DP started peppering me with questions.
But it sounds like the best answer may be to just suggest if
the DP doesn't know how to do it, they find a still
photographer who has and hire him/her to take care of it.
Thanks!
Paul
ᐧ
On Sun, Dec 1, 2013 at 2:30 PM, Christian Freisleder
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Hey Paul,
most of the time, if you just need the hdr for lighting
and blurry reflections and you can be sure there won't be
any crisp reflections (glass, crome) in the render, there
is no need to over complicate things.
I use an 180° fisheye lens on a regular tripod with a
standard 3 way head.
I do1 exposure set every 120°(every leg of the tripod) and
skip the top and nadi shot for outdoors and just use the
stamp brush in photoshop to clean out black or wrong spots.
this gives you the correct lighting and something thats
reflecting the correct colors.
For this you don't even need a camera with a big sensor,
just a camera that does proper bracketing.
If you have reflective objects that need clear and crisp
reflections thats NOT the way to go, then you need to do
It properly and the hdr labs link is a good resource.
for stitching i would use ptgui, as most of the time It's
just one click and finish. I think hugin ist free and
almost the same, but not as comfortable as ptgui. At least
when I was trying it about 2 years back.
hope that helps
Christian
On 30.11.2013 22:46, Steven Caron wrote:
if there is time and a budget for capturing set data,
reference and spherical HDRIs... then do it! saves time
on the backend when doing lighting. removes any guesswork
from just having a plate.
i think the hdr labs forum is a great place to also ask
questions
On Sat, Nov 30, 2013 at 1:21 PM, Paul Griswold
<[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Hey guys,
I am helping out on a documentary that's being shot
in China & the subject of shooting spherical
panoramas came up. For what these guys are doing, I
don't really think there's a need to shoot HDRI's,
but I do think having panoramas would come in handy.
The problem is, I'm being peppered with questions by
the DP about the subject (things like, "this requires
a nodal head, right?") and honestly I've never shot a
single panorama in my life. I think the DP is way
overcomplicating & overthinking things, but since I
have no experience I don't want to give him bad
advice or information.
I sent him a link to the sIBL tutorial page (
http://www.hdrlabs.com/tutorials/ ) and that just
added to the amount of questions I'm being hit with.
So I was hoping someone on the list might have some
experience with this subject & could share some info
& advice.
Thanks,
Paul
ᐧ
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