No way should you attempt to "heat the engine". Too much involved to go wrong! The way I figure it you have 3 choices: remove the engine and retorque ; cut pieces of the top members of the frame off., weld connectors and drill holes to bolt the pieces back to the frame when you take off your valve cover and re-torque (most common method if you just have to re-torque) ; or hope that the head gasket doesn't seep after you put the engine back in (most practical). How do they re-torque after factory engine installation? Doesn't happen! Not an ideal world. Jerry F0 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Gagnon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Multiple recipients of list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 11:31 PM Subject: Repost:Head heating and off topic request for info
> Hi All, > > I posted this once and got no reply, maybe no-one saw it? Here it is again; > > > > I am FINALLY putting my F2 back together. I want to avoid head > re-torqueing, and was wondering how many heat cycles should I run it > through? > I have a propane burner like you would use to burn out weeds, but I have > access to a plastic welding heat gun that reaches 600deg. C. > Which would be better to use? > > Now, for another project of mine. I need to find some Lake Moon wheel > covers. These are the spun aluminum type like you saw on Bonneville > speedsters > in the 40's. They cover the whole rim and attach with sheet metal screws > driven into the rim. Anyone know where I can find them? > > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Chris > > >
