James,

Firstly, throttle discs.  Yes, these should open fully, so they are
horizontal in the carb.  There are a number of adjustments.  Firstly, you
will see on the shaft that the cable linkage operates, a couple of 'forks'
that then push pegs on the carbs themselves to rotate the throttel disc.
These forks should be adjusted so that there is a minimal gap (there is a
spec in the manual, but I don't have it to hand, the exact number of thou I
don't imagine matters TOO much), so that the throttle discs start to move
with only a tiny amount of free play after the cable starts pulling.

Second, there is the cable itself - there shouldn't be any looseness in the
cable that would allow the cable to be pulled but the carb linkage rods not
to rotate immediately.

Thirdly, there is a threaded post on the underneath of the throttle pedal
that adjusts when the peddle hits the floor, preventing you pressing down
any further.  Sometimes the carpet can ride up underneath this, preventing
the pedal being pressed right down.

Unsteady idle could just be poor tuning - either timing or carbs.  It might
also be leaks around the spindles that hold the throttle discs - the
spindles can wear in the carb body that supports them over time, letting air
in through the side.  The fix is new spindles, and possibly having the carb
body line-drilled and new bushes fitted (by a professional machine shop!).
Or it could be the anti-run-on valves in the discs leaking - I've soldered
mine shut (they are only an emissions thing, and not too effective at that),
you could just replace the discs.

The damp patch - could it be fuel dripping from the carbs, then dissolving
the years of crusty crud below, the dissolved mixture dripping onto the
ground to leave a nasty stain?  I just discovered that my phantom oil leak
was actually a fuel leak like this!  New float chamber seals are on their
way...

Richard & Daffy

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