Well after three time of pulling the tranny over the last 2 weeks, I'm finally happy with the way it works. Hey Otto..remember how noisy it was when you rode in Big Red? Even with the tunnel out, you hear the exhaust now more than the tranny!
Of course a web page will follow, but just a bit of info here as to what was causing (had to be causing?) the second gear crunching. I knew the tip of the mainshaft was a bit worn (grooved) for the last 1000 miles or so. (since it's new bearings and seals last summer when I pulled it) It was pulled this time specifically to replace the main shaft, and install the n.o.s. input shaft and tip bearing I'd been collecting up since then. I was assuming the noise and crunching was do to the slop in the shaft/bearing fit. Well upon pulling it the third time,. I realized I had re-assembled the 1st/2nd shift hub backwards the second time around.! This time I also increased the spring pressure by stacking in a second 0-80 washer (now two each) under the detent springs. It takes about 25 lbs (spec is 19lbs) to have the shift hubs slip now. Man what a difference! I can almost power shift without any crunching now. So what was the problem? Well I have to believe it was actually two fold. The grooved mainshaft tip, bearing and input shaft, had enough slop in it to literally let the assembly (on the bench) hang at about 20 degrees off plane. The good shafts and new bearing, had less than 2 degrees of slop max. (pics to show the comparison will be posted) Well while I had the tranny out this third time, I decided to go ahead and pull the flywheel and engine back plate, and replace the rear main seal. While I had that all apart I decided to check the input shaft tip bush in the end of the crank. WHOA! It came out WAY TOO EASY. After placing the bush on the shaft tip on the bench, I realized there was about 1/32" of slop in the fit of the bush to crank shaft, and about 1/6" of play between bush and input shaft tip! The outside diameter of the bush had a bunch of nail set punch marks in it like some one had tried to expand it's size to make it fit snuggly in the crank shaft. So after rigging up a holder for the bush, laying out the input shaft, old mainshaft and bearing on the bench I realized the bush must have been letting the clutch flop around enough to bend against the mainshaft tip bearing which wore the groove in the tip of the main shaft. I know... clear as mud right...the web page will make more sense when you see the photos. Anyway...the original detent spring pressure had been measured last summer when I put it together. They were at about 19lbs even with one washer each under each spring and ball. I have to assume, that under load, the slop in the tip bearing and input shaft bush, was messing with the mesh of the gears against the laygear, making the hub drag, so it would not stuff the synchro up tight against the gears before the hub would slip past the ball detents. Well now with almost no freeplay in that tip bearing, a new input bush in place, and the 25 lbs detent setting, the sucker shifts beaUTIFULLy! Perhaps just a bit snug, but not notchy or sticky. Yes... I'm one happy camper! Paul Tegler [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.teglerizer.com *** http://www.team.net/the-local *** Your messages not reaching the list? Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html *** unsubscribe/change address requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] or try *** http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool *** http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo *** Archives at http://www.team.net/archive *** Edit your replies!
