Sounds almost like you have an early model (Mk I - III) fixed spring as they were considerably stiffer than the late model ( Mk IV - 1500) swing spring (see Paul Ts chart on spring specs: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/springs.htm .
Did you replace the spring yourself or have a shop do it? easy to tell the different construction betwen the two types of spring: Fixed spring: http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiandiirearsuspension. html&xsl=diagram.xsl&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/earlygt6.html&category=ax lessuspensiondriveshaftsandwheels Swing Spring: http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/gt6mkiiiroadspringanddampe r.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/gt6mkiii.html&category=axlessuspensiond riveshaftsandwheels&xsl=diagram.xsl Or If the replacement is a swing spring then perhaps one meant for a late model Mk3 GT6 as that is also stiffer than the Spit spring. Have heard that some suppliers only carry one swing spring for bot Spit & GT6 - check the thickness of the longest 2 leaves - should be .25". If it is .31 then it's a GT6 spring. cheers Scott > Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2010 12:22:50 -0700 > From: [email protected] > To: [email protected] > Subject: [Spits] Rear spring with too much arch > > About 6 monhts ago I replaced the rear spring on my MkIV with a new one from Moss Motors in Goleta. The old one was bottoming going over dips in the road. The problem I have is that the rear wheels now have quite a bit of positive camber and I can feel the wheels "tucking in " when I go round a corner even at moderate speeds. The only solutions I can come up with are get the spring de-arched like Kasner says in his book or put a thick spacer between the diff and the spring to lift it up so that the drive shafts angle becomes closer to horizontal. However the spacer idea is a little tricky since it would have to have a stub to locate in the hole on the diff and then a hole in its' top side so the stub on the spring bracket would slot in and hence retain the ability of the spring to pivot. It looks almost impossible to drill holes lower down in the uprights which carry the drive shafr bearings hence lifting the drive shafts without using a spacer. I was hoping that the spring would de-arch itself after a while but I put a load of bricks in the trunk and just couldn't get to even a zero camber let alone negative camber as it should be. > Has anyone come across this problem and found a solution? > I also notice that Kasner also recommends removing the loop on the second leaf but this loop looks like it is a safety device in the event> of failure of the main leaf to upright attachment. > Stuart a Greenwood > 71 Mk > IV Spitfire, 71Mk 1 Stag > _______________________________________________ > > [email protected] > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/[email protected] _______________________________________________ [email protected] Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/[email protected]
