I tried using a small handheld propane torch to assemble my saddle tank and cab at first, and could not get enough heat into the entire object to get a good joint with the silver solder. Since (in my case) the saddle tank sat directly on the boiler, I don't thinks a normal soft-solder joint would hold up. Yes, you can burn things with an oxy setup, but you can burn things with propane too. (Been there, done that!)
Perhaps the sign of skill is more in being able to do big jobs with little heat than to do moderate jobs with high heat. ---- Original Message ---- On a No. 1 gauge loco you really shouldn't need an oxy-acetylene torch to silver solder any of the parts you are likely to make. I have silver brazed some fairly large assemblies for 3/4" scale 3-1/2" gauge locomotives using nothing more than a common Presto-Lite plumber's torch. - Some Removed - It is VERY easy to burn the pieces you are silver brazing if you are using an oxy-acetylene torch. If I were advising a beginner in Gauge One building....I don't think I would recommend oxy-acetylene. Even fairly large assemblies can be silver soldered with a plain propane torch, and if you need additional heat, you can get a "Turbo-Torch" that uses a swirl tip to generate much more heat that a plain propane torch. While I am sure in the hands of an expert, very fine silver brazing can be done by an experienced person, with an oxy-acetylene outfit....I think a beginner would end up giving up after they ruined their hard work fabricating cabs and saddle tanks. I am also reasonably sure that for parts that are not part of the presure vessel, such as boiler jackets, cabs and details....soft soldering is more that ample. _______________________________________________ SSLiveSteam mailing list Send messages: [email protected] Cancel subscription: http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam Rules: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html
