----- Original Message ----- 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 11:16 AM
Subject: Re: [SSLiveSteam] quiet list - newest project, please help


> Bending the sheet metal is not that hard if you
> can find a friend or a shop with a metal break and
> roller.  I fabricated a new cab and saddle tank
> from shet brass without much difficulty.  You will
> need a Oxy/Acytlene torch to braze it together
> though.  The smaller propane tources wont handle it.
>
>
On a No. 1 gauge loco you really shouldn't need an oxy-acetylene torch to 
silver solder any of the parts you are likely to make. I have silver brazed 
some fairly large assemblies for 3/4" scale 3-1/2" gauge locomotives using 
nothing more than a common Presto-Lite plumber's torch. And I have watched 
some oldtimes braze a large copper boiler for a 3-1/2" gauge Pacific with 
one fellow using a Presto-Lite torch and another adding supplementary heat 
from a propane torch used by roofers. It is VERY easy to burn the pieces you 
are silver brazing if you are using an oxy-acetylene torch. If I were 
advising a beginner in Gauge  One building....I don't think I would 
recommend oxy-acetylene.
Even fairly large assemblies can be silver soldered with a plain propane 
torch, and if you need additional heat, you can get a "Turbo-Torch" that 
uses a swirl tip to generate much more heat that a plain propane torch.
While I am sure in the hands of an expert, very fine silver brazing can be 
done by an experienced person, with an oxy-acetylene outfit....I think a 
beginner would end up giving up after they ruined their hard work 
fabricating cabs and saddle tanks. I am also reasonably sure that for parts 
that are not part of the presure vessel, such as boiler jackets, cabs and 
details....soft soldering is more that ample.

Keith Taylor   Jefferson, Maine USA



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