At 06:10 AM 8/23/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--- In biofuel@yahoogroups.com, "josephputzer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>wrote:
>Hello all,
>
>I've just begun to build a processor out of two 55 gallon drums.  I
>am having a 1" bushing welded to the drum so that I can put a screw-
>in heating element into the processor.  I wanted the bushing so that
>I can take out the element for cleaning and whatnot.  My trouble is
>that I'm not much for electrical components.  I have a 4.5 kw 240 v
>element.  How do I safely attach a power cord with the given wattage
>and voltage? Is 4.5 kw to high? Should I find a 1.5 or 2.0 kw element
>instead?
>
>Any help would be great!
>--- End forwarded message ---


I think I described this at www.veggieavenger.com/media in the 'appleseed 
processor- open source plans' thread.

Without going into all the details of how normal wiring is done (please go 
buy a $10 book on wiring, it'll help a lot with the basics of wire 
stripping and how to make connections) here are a few pointers on water 
heater heating elements:

4.5 KW is fine, assuming that the wiring you use is adequate and that the 
circuit is designed for it.

  4.5 KW is 4500 watts, and divided by 240 volts you will be drawing 18.75 
amps. That amperage isn't too bad- so use 12 gauge wire/cable or heavier 
(like 10 gauge)

(i use something that we generically call 'spa cable' - black waterproof 
flexible cable sold at Home Depot, but I'm not sure what it's technical 
name actually is!). You can also use 12 gauge extension cord wiring- make 
sure it's actually 12 gauge, not just some kind of so-called 'heavy-duty' 
extension cord (this is a form of wire sold by the foot at hardware stores, 
you don't have to cut up an existing extension cord which you might not 
know the gauge of)

Don't draw any other loads on that wiring if it's only 12 gauge (which is 
designed for 20 amps maximum, assuming it's under 100 feet in length). 10 
gauge is designed for up to 30 amps.

Presuming that you have 240 service at the site where you will be 
installing the processor, yOu will need to wire the cord to a plug that 
matches your 240V outlet (there many types of plug configurations for 
240v), or wire the cord into a disconnect box (grey subpanel looking thing 
which has a sort of big on-off Frankenstein switch on the side) and then 
wire that disconnect into a plug or somehow into your 240V service (ie see 
the wiring book you should buy if you want to go fancy like this).


modern 240V plugs come with either a four-wire or a three-wire configuration.

YOu only need three wires, but if your existing outlet is a four-wire (ie 
like from a dryer or range), go buy that same type of plug and don't wire 
anything to it's fourth 'neutral' terminal (the box directions should 
explain which is what).

four-wire 240 plugs are meant for appliances that have both a 240V heater 
and a 120V timer or clock, so missing the neutral in this case won't do any 
harm.

The actual heating element end gets wired like this:

black and white wires are wired to the two terminals of the heating 
element. Here's the confusing part: in 240V service, what you're supposed 
to be using for the element is a black and a red, but we're using a black 
and a white because that's all our hardware store cord gives us. In our 
case, if you just bought some spa cable or extension cord type cable, you 
don't have a black and a red. SO you use the black and the white, and 
pretend that the white is a red (electricians are supposed to paint red the 
ends of the white if doing something similar to this so that future 
electricians dont' get confused). You will also have a green wire in the 
cord, and that must get grounded to the drum. If you're welding anyway, add 
yourself a little tab to the drum, near the heating element, then use a 
sheet metal screw to make a ground terminal for the green wire to land on. 
If you're done with your welding and it's too late, then make yourself a 
c-clamp with a little threaded hole in it, and use a screw to make a 
terminal for the green wire. Then clamp it securely to the bottom lip of 
the drum or some other secure location.

The plug end: your plug terminals are labeled either on the box or on the 
plug itself. You should wire the black and the white (supposed to be red 
actually) to the 'load' terminals (they might be brass colored), and the 
green to the 'ground' terminal (might be green colored). If you have a 
fourth terminal for 'neutral', ignore it. Normally the neutral is where the 
white wire goes in a four-wire cord (three plus a ground), but that's not 
what you're using it for in a three-wire (two plus ground) cord. It's OK to 
leave it blank.

The other thing you could do, is to run that heating element at 120V- just 
wire a normal 120V plug onto it (which some hardware store clerks can tell 
you how to do).
At 120V, the element will run at 1`/4 the wattage, which will make it a 
1000 watt approximately, which will be a little low-power for a 55 gallon 
drum, but you can either buy a 120V, 1500 watt element, or something like 
that if you're worried about wiring 240 or dont' have 240 service handy. 
Wiring a 120V heating element (or using a 240V one at 120V) works like 
this: heavy duty grounded ordinary 120V plug has a brass and a silver 
screw, and a green screw. In our case, wire the white and the black wires 
to the two terminals of the heating element side, then take the black wire 
and attach it to the brass screw on the 120V plug, and take the white wire 
and attach it to the silver terminal on the plug. The green wire goes 
between the ground on the reactor and the green terminal on the plug.

Hope that wasn't too confusing,

mark




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