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Jonathan,
You asked
I am a newbe to this. However, will this work on a Jeep
YJ??? To start, locate a 2.8 NA Toyota engine with its
bellhousing and clutch plates (fan to clutch engine.)
If you can not verify the distance the engine has
covered or the hours it has run then replace the timing belt, timing belt
tensioners and check the injector nozzles to see if they are flat faced or
burnt (pitted). If pitted replace the injector nozzles.
Take the gearbox and transfer box from the vehicle
and place it on blocks so it sits in its correct position, as though it was
still mounted in the vehicle (the angles need to be correct longitudinally and
across the box.)
At this stage the Bell housing should still be on
the removed gearbox.
There are two types of clutch operating systems
fitted to the YJ. One is an internal unit- constructed thrust bearing and
slave cylinder, the other is a separate clutch slave cylinder that fits through
from the back of the bellhousing and presses onto a clutch fork. This later is
very important to get the distances correct in the movement of the fork type.
You will need to measure the exact distance from the front face of the gearbox
to the center of travel position on the clutch fork along the thrust bearing
slide shaft. Don't measure from the bellhousing as this will be
discarded.
Remove the bellhousing off the Toyota engine.
Place the front end of the bellhousing over a 3/4 inch plate of steel
and with a marker pen mark all the holes and the inside and outside of the
bellhousing onto the plate. Pay particular attention to the locating dowels
and the starter motor mount holes.
Remove the bellhousing from the YJ gearbox. Place
the back end of the bellhousing from the YJ onto a 3/4 inch plate and mark out
the plate with a marker pen making sure to get locating dowels in their correct
position.
Take the clutch plate and locate one with a spline
that fits the YJ spigot shaft and the same diameter friction area as the
original from the Toyota engine. If you can't find one no worries strip the
clutch plate and fit the Jeep center into a new Toyota plate and replace the
rivets.
With a pin punch mark out the inside and outside of
the two plates. Also pin punch all the holes. Note; some of the holes in the
copy of the engine plate will need to be Tapped/threaded and one for the clutch
fork pivot in the gear box housing will need to be tapped/threaded. Once pilot
holes are drilled in both plates remember which holes need to be what size and
which need threads tapped into them.
Cut out both plates with a cutting torch and with a
small grinder clean all surfaces. Drill all the holes to the correct sizes and
thread those holes needing threads.
Remove the spigot bearing from the center of the
crank shaft on the Toyota engine and machine up a bronze bush that is firm
in the crankshaft and slightly loose on the end of the spigot shaft. Fit the
bush to the Toyota crankshaft. (A bush is okay as the Nissans use a bush and so
do many other vehicles. The needle rollers that come out are not so easy to
locate, hence the bush option.
Assemble the clutch and pressure plate onto the
Toyota engine, making sure that the spigot shaft slides in with
ease.
Fit one plate to the rear of the engine and one to
the front of the gearbox. Keep the gearbox as it was blocked up on wood chocks
or some such so that it sits well off the ground but in the exact angles and
position it would when in the YJ. Slide the engine back onto the spigot shaft
making sure that the distance that you measured to the center of the clutch fork
from the face of the gearbox is where the clutch pressure plate rests on the
clutch thrust bearing.
Check that all is aligned with all bolts in place
and the rear engine plate you have made parallel to the front gearbox plate you
have made. Also the engine back where the clutch fork was measured to be in
the center of its travel and the engine not leaning to either side. That is no
lean on the engine. Make sure at this stage that the engine and gearbox are
firmly chocked in this position.
With 1inch by 1/8 inch flat bar cut lengths to go
under the engine bolts on the plate you made for the engine and extend to
the outer rim of the gearbox plate you made. That is the flat bar should not be
bent but go straight from just under a bolt on the engine plate to the outer
area of the gearbox plate. Put one bar at the top, cut another for the correct
length to fit at 90 degrees from the top bar and then the same for one on the
other side of the engine. Weld these bars in place. Measuring all the time and
making sure the engine or gearbox does not move. Fill in the gaps around the
plates you made joining the engine to the gearbox with 1 inch flat
bar.
Remember that the bolts on the engine plate you
made will need to be removed so make the welds with just enough clearance for a
ring spanner and thin walled socket to take the bolts out.
Once the major gaps have been filled you will need
to start cutting some strange shapes from the bar to fill in wedges and other
shapes that are left. Once you have gone around 3/4 of the housing the engine
can be removed, the new bellhousing removed and the underside filled with flat
bar and again wedges shaped to fit.
Once this is done the gearbox and new bellhousing
can be fitted back into the YJ and then the Diesel engine fitted. Should be
plenty of room behind the engine to the firewall as have done this on jeeps
before.
Next stage is the engine mounts. You will need to
fabricate mounts up that will raise the engine to maximum height away from the
front assembly and thus clear the sump. If the engine is too high the
accelerator cable will rub into the bonnet, if too low the control arms to the
front differential will hit the engine mounts.
The radiator will need to be modified. Plastic
fantastic is not so good as the copper when it comes to modifications. You will
also need to make sure that the coolant return tank is working and that there is
a pressure relief radiator cap to suit. Hence the radiator with copper as a cap
can be fitted if the engine has not got one already on the engine thermostat
housing as some times fitted.
It is basically the same for Toyota 1HZ to
Fords and Chevs as well as jeeps and other makes.
Have pictures of bellhousing being made here but
not sure where to put it or send.
Doug -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by Lao Telecom MailScanner with NOD32, and is believed to be clean. |
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