Jeff,

Thanks for your advice.

I have several spare Mac IIci(s).  

Tried switching off the power strip, switcing it on
and then wihtin a second or two hitting the on switch
separately form the keyboard and then from the switch
on the rear of the CPU.  Nohting.

Pulled the power supply from a unit that was known to
be working and R&R with the power supply in the CPU
that was not working.  No soap.

Finally R&R the internal drive with my data and
software and swapped it into another IIci CPU.  Booted
up and everything works.  in other words, I gave up.

However, I shall use your advice on the CPU that was
not working and experiment by trying some of the fixes
you suggested to see if I can make it operational.

Thanks for the tips and the benefit of your
experience.

Mel

--- Jeff Walther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> At 15:30 -0400 08/04/2005, System6 wrote:
> >Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 06:34:58 -0700 (PDT)
> >From: Mel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> >This morning, when I hit the start button, the
> three
> >lights above the three buttons (num lock, caps lock
> >and scroll lock) and the green light at the lower
> >right of the CPU came on simultaneously; the CPU
> >emitted a very short chime but the CPU never came
> on
> >nor did the monitor.
> 
> First, you'd probably have better luck with this
> question on Vintage 
> Macs list, because it is a hardware question, not a
> System 6 question.
> 
> Second, there are two possibilities.  You could have
> a failed power 
> supply or a failed motherboard.
> 
> Power Supply:  I don't remember the details,
> unfortunately, though 
> some time with Deja News might pull up relevant
> posts, but there's a 
> fairly common failure mode for the power supply
> which, IIRC, may 
> cause this issue.
> 
> Logic Board:  On these old logic boards the
> electrolytic capacitors 
> leak and the leakage is corrosive.  Pull the LB,
> examine it closely, 
> holding it at various angles to the light and look
> for discolored 
> areas (brownish) in the rear right corner.  If you
> find some, clean 
> it up with swabs and isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. 
> Examine the area 
> carefully for pitted and corroded leads and solder. 
> You may find 
> connections that are eaten through.  An ohmmeter
> (continuity meter) 
> is handy for this examination.
> 
> Some folks have had luck simply cleaning the
> corrosive off, but for a 
> good fix, you need to remove the old caps and
> replace them, 
> preferably with tantalum caps which won't leak.
> 
> The surface mount electrolytic caps are the little
> round silver cans 
> on teh board.  There's about a dozen fat ones
> (~1/4") and a handful 
> of thin ones (~1/8").
> 
> Marc Schrier's Clock Chipping Home Page has
> instructions on removing 
> surface mount resistors using the two soldering
> pencil method and 
> this is relevant to remving SM caps as well.
> 
> Replacement caps in tantalum or electrolytic are
> available at 
> Digi-key and other places.
> 
> The unfortunate fact is that a huge number of these
> grand old 
> machines are experiencing this type of failure. 
> We're seeing a lot 
> of the SE/30s with the same problem over on the
> Classic Mac list.
> 
> I had this failure in my IIci back in the mid-90s
> when a IIci was 
> still worth close to $1000.  I had to bypass a
> corroded via (a hole 
> that takes a connection from front to back of
> circuit board) with a 
> bit of wire wrap to fix mine.
> 
> Jeff Walther
> 
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