Godavari-The Dakshina Ganga

The river Godavari is the real divider of north and south India, enfolding
in its course across the sub-continent, the religious sanctity of the
northern rivers as well as the aboriginal trend of worship of nature and
its forces ofthe south. One distinctive feature differentiating the rivers
of the north and the south is that the rivers of the north are perennial,
flowing throughout the year, since they are fed by the monsoon rains as
well as the snow of the Himalayas, whereas the rivers of the south are fed
by the north-east and south-west monsoons. During these months they tend to
overflow their banks but during the summer months they are narrow streams
in most places.

The Godavari is also called the 'Dakshina Ganga'. It's 1,450 kms. course
entails it to being the longest of the east-flowing rivers of the south. It
flows along the northern Deccan, descending from the Western ghats, or the
Sahyadri range near Nasik, which runs from the river Tapti to Terkhol creek
near Kanyakumari.

The watershed of the Sahyadris especially in the central parts of Karnataka
with its wooded ghats and spectacular waterfalls are breathtakingly
beautiful sights. The main source of the Godavari, within sight of the
Arabian sea, is 129 kms. (80 miles) from Bombay, near the Thai ghat and it
flows south of east into the Bay of Bengal. It is twice the length of river
Kaveri and her drainage basin is the second largest in India. As compared
to the Ganga whose drainage basin is 25% of the total area, the Godavari
covers 10% of the total area.

The 200-year-old black stone temple of Trimbakeshwar marks the source of
the Godavari. It houses one of the 12 'Jyoti' Lingas' of Shiva.

The Godavari rises from the high plateaus behind Trimbakeshwar and trickels
down into the tanks built around the temple. The main tank of Kushtvertha
has an architectural beauty of its own and it enhances the sanctity of the
temple and its surroundings. One has to trek a steep and treacherous path
to reach the actual source of the Godavari. High up on the hills is a Kund
or a tiny stone well from where the water trickles down the walls of the
black cliffs and from here it forms a narrow stream flowing past
Trimbakeshwar and onward, to reach Nasik. This is one of the four sites of
the kumbha mela or the Sinhastha mela held every 12 years and about which
you have read in detail in the previous chapters. Along the banks here,
there are 2,000 temples and numerable bathing ghats. There is an incident
in the Ramayana that relates to this city. When Laxman, brother of Rama was
fed up of the persuasions of Surpanakha (sister of Ravana) to marry her, he
chopped off her nose and it fell where Nasik stands today. The Godavari
here is very polluted. It is also believed that Rama and Sita stayed on the
banks of the river at Panchavati.

Up in the hills around Nasik are the hill-fortresses of Shivaji. The
highest peak here is the Brahmagiri 1,262 meters (4148 feet) where the
river takes a steep turn and flows on past the town of Paithan, famous for
its silk weaving. At Brahmagiri it was sage Gautam Buddha who performed
penance after killing a cow and hence the name Godavari.

Numerous dynasties ruled, conquered and diminished in these regions of the
Deccan-the Satavahanas and the Chalukyas were spread across Maharashtra and
more than a century and a half later, the Marathas ruled Andhra and
Tanjore. The Rashtrakutas of Karnataka were the builders of the Ellora and
Ajanta caves near Aurangabad. These caves were scooped out of rocks over 10
centuries ago. There are 34 rock-cut temples here, representing Hindu,
Buddhist and Jain faiths. Nearby,96 kms. (60 miles) from Aurangabad are the
Ajanta caves, (30 in number) of the Buddhist faith. The ancient city of
Vijayanagar also came up in the Deccan a century later. But these
civilizations were marauded by the advent of the Moghuls in India.

As the Godavari flows further east, it enters the state of Karnataka, past
the Manjra valley and the rocks of Golconda. It is now joined by its
northern tributary, the Purna before it reaches Nander, the Gurdwara town
of Huzoor Sahib, where the Sikh Guru Gobind Singh was assassinated in the
year 1708.

By now the river has entered Andhra Pradesh and flowing past Warangal near
the 80th meridian, it is joined by its tribal tributary, the Pranahita,
which has its source in Maharashtra and it brings down the drainage of the
Mahadeo hills. The famous Ramappa temple raised by the Kakatiya dynasty and
well-known for its architectural beauty is situated north of Warangal. The
tributaries of Indravati and Sabari (associated with the story of Rama),
also joins the Godavari. The course of the Indravati marks the border of
Madhya Pradesh.

The Manjra is its main southern tributary and it drains a large part of the
former state of Hyderabad, which is now partly in Maharashtra and partly in
Andhra Pradesh. By now the Godavari is 4 kms. wide but this again is only
during the monsoon season. Here along its banks is the temple of
Kaleshwaram, in which is one of the three lingams which gave Telangana the
ancient name of 'Trilingadesh'. The river flows peacefully on, the colour,
a light blue.

Near Khammam and Kottagudem, across the bridge over Godavari is the temple
of God Bhadrachalam, associated with the Ramayana. The forests around this
part of the Godavari are the Vanaprastha land where Ram, Sita and Lakshmana
spent 14 years in exile. The temple of Bhadrachalam on the hill-top is one
of the fore-most of Rama temples and legend says that at Parnasala, a place
30 kilometres from Bhadrachalam, Ravana had abducted Sita and it was here
that Rama and Lakshmana had crossed the river Godavari when they began
their journey in search of Sita. Bhadrachalam is also famous for being the
home town of Ramdas, a devotee of Rama, whose songs are so well-known all
over the country. The story of this great poet is quite interesting-Ramadas
was a tehsildar and his real name was Gopanna. There was an old woman in
his Tehsil who once had a dream in which she saw three idols in a forest on
top of a hill. The next day, accompanied by her daughter, she went into the
deep forest and found the idols of Rama, Lakshmana and Sita, on top of the
hill, just as she had visualised in her dream. She became their devotee and
would go up to worship them every day. When the people of

her village asked her about her daily visits to the deep forest, she told
them she was going to a temple. They were amused by her answer, since they
believed that there was no temple in the dense forest. Once, the story of
her mysterious visits to a temple reached the ears of Gopanna the
Tehsildar'. But he took her story seriously and went with her to see the
site. When he saw the idols under a thatched roof, which Thimakka had made
herself, he underwent a great transformation. And from that day onwards, he
decided to spend the rest of his life singing praises of Lord Rama. He also
built a beautiful temple here. Very soon people came from far and wide and
journeyed through the forest to hear Ramanna and also visit the temple, and
they named him Bhadrachala Ramadasa. Today Bhadrachalam is no longer a
small village but it is a pilgrim centre and has 24 temples all clustered
in close proximity. The stone temple built by Ramadasa and housing the
idols of Rama, Lakshmana and Sita is right in the midst of them. The
legends also say that Lord Bhadrachalam himself is supposed to have
descended on earth in the form of a human, to ransom Ramadasa, who was
later taken prisoner by a Qutb Shahi King.

The Godavari which was flowing in a wide valley and frequently breaking up
into several channels, now flows into a different geographical region. Many
tributaries join the Godavari as it flows along. The Pranahita which has
its source in Maharashtra joins the river followed by Indravati and the
Sabari further down. At this juncture, the Godavari is four kilometres
wide. But it once more narrows down when it flows through the Eastern
ghats. From the junction of Pranahita, the Godavari leaves the lava plateau
region and enters a trough of eroded rocks that extend right up to the sea.
This feature is responsible for the wide break in the Eastern Ghats and
also for the wide depth of the coastal plain at the mouth of the Godavari
and Krishna.

Ninety-seven kms. (60 miles) from the sea, the river leaves the trough and
breaks through the ghats and falls in a magnificent gorge which is only 182
meters (200 yards) wide. The vast delta of the Godavari is virtually
parallel to that of the river Krishna and in fact both the rivers are
connected by canal.

The Godavari now curves into the prosperous town of Rajahmundry, formerly
known as Rajamahendravaram, which is close to the ancient site of the
capital of the Eastern Chalukyas. Here the Godavari flows as a broad and
mighty river. The railway bridge on the river here is the second largest in
India and contains 56 spans. Rajahmundry is an ancient and traditional
town, having seen many dynasties. Once every 12 years, the 'pushkaran'
festival is celebrated here, which is as sanctimonious as the kumbha mela
at Prayag. The temples along the river here are dedicated to Markandeya and
Kotilingeswara. The famous classical poet of the 11th century, Nannaya, as
also the renowned Telugu writer, Veersalingam Pantulu, both lived in
Rajahmundry. Here is located another well-known temple of Draksharama.

The Qodvari flows on and finally reaches Dhavaleshwaram, which boasts of a
dam constructed by Sir Arthur Cotton, in as early as 1845. He came to India
from England as a young lad of seventeen and was working in the Irrigation
Department. He had seen the stone Anicut dam (a low dam which directs the
stream flow into the head of the canal) built on the river Kaveri by the
Chola kings and he designed and built this dam along those lines. He also
built another dam on the river Kaveri called Melania or the upper Anicut.
He is the man responsible for the building of a dam on the river Krishna
near Vijayawada. Not only did he build the dam but also planned a canal
system that would fill the lakes and tanks, which in turn would improve
irrigation. He is remembered even today as the pioneer of a well-planned
irrigation system in southern India.

After the Godavari surpasses Dhavaleshwaram, it is divided into three
streams-the eastern stream is called the Gautami Godavari, meeting the sea
at Yenam, the middle stream is called the Vaishnava Godavari, which merges
with the sea at Narsapur. All the three together form a vast fertile delta
area and it is considered to be one of the richest rice-growing regions of
India. Rich in legend, the word Godavari signifies the giver of cows, a
euphemism for prosperity. It is also known as Gautami as it was supposed to
have been brought down to earth by sage Gautama. The Godavari delta
attracted the French, the Dutch and the English settlers and it served as a
very useful waterway, making travel easy through the ferry system, besides
being a mode of transportation of teak logs and bamboo. Its banks are rich
in teak and bamboo forests.     KR IRS  5423

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