Hey Guys, For time and less effort you could likely cobble up a Hydrogen Maser and be done with it. :=))
-John ======= > Joseph M Gwinn wrote: >> >> I was the one who originally rained on the use-water-in-a-bottle >> approach. >> The response was that even a child could store water. Well, that is >> not >> the common experience with water-cooled equipment, which always manages >> to >> require continual maintenance attention, so I went quiet, and listened >> as >> the subject was explored. > > But it isn't necessary to get this complicated. You don't need moving > parts, > and I agree, you don't want to be piping the stuff around. > > The increasingly complex schemes are coming about because posters are > trying to invent reasons why this is hard work. They are ignoring the > simple fact that small quantities of water can be easily stored for a > whole > lot of years. > > A couple of examples from my own life: I live on well water. If the > electricity goes out, and it regularly does, I cannot pump the water to > flush the toilets. That goes over really well with my wife. To avoid > this problem I keep three 5 gallon plastic jugs of water in the basement. > They sit there for very long periods of time, and are invariably full when > I need them to force a manual flush. Simple! > > Don't like plastic water jugs? Ok, use a 5 gallon plastic paint pail. > They > are O-ring sealed, and will stay full of water for a decade or more > without > any attention. I have one in my basement that I used for cooling water > when > I was soldering the plumbing in my house... 5 years ago. It is open, with > a lid just sitting on top. The pale is still full of water. Some > evaporation > has undoubtedly occurred, but not enough to matter. Things would be much > better if I bothered to snap the lid down... actually things would be much > better if I bothered to dump the water and cleaned out the pail... I think > I might. > > For me, processing a junk automobile engine so that I would A) want it > in my house, and B) would be able to use it as a ballast is ridiculous. > The stupid things cost $50 to $100 in the junk yard, and are a really > inconvenient shape. I'd much rather stack $50, or $100 worth of > polyethylene > chemical bottles full of water than mess with a junk engine. > >> >> It has become apparent from the issues and increasingly complex schemes >> to >> solving tose issues that keeping water in its place is not exactly >> child's >> play, and it seems to me that water is far more trouble and even expense >> than simply getting a big hunk of scrap metal, unless one needs tons of >> thermal mass. If one needs fast thermal exchange with the air, drill >> some >> holes or use a set of thick plates with spacers, so the distance from >> air >> to the most remote part of the mass is no more than an inch or so. Or, >> use a big hunk of copper or aluminum. Or both. > > Have you even looked at the price of copper lately? It is so high that > even the rich cannot afford to use it for flashing, gutters or roofs > anymore! And when you are all done, copper and aluminum cannot store the > same amount of heat, pound-for-pound, as plain old dumb water. >> >> If one needs tons of thermal mass plus rapid exchange with the air, use >> brick checkerwork or a pebble bed, a standard industrial approach: < > > That can be a good way too. How are you going to keep it dry and mold > free? > > What about the ever present dust? > > -Chuck Harris > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
