Just soldered another ad5329 to a sot adapter board. The suggested method of tinning the board. Place the chip and solder 1 pin then adjust it to align all pins Lastly heating each pin on the chip worked very well. Just a tap of the iron did the trick. No solder bridges and no un-soldered pins as occurred in my first attempt. Time maybe 15 minutes. Did a lot of double checking. Regards Paul WB8TSL
On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 9:32 AM, paul swed <[email protected]> wrote: > Good comments. > But here is the reality. I find soldering smt stuff difficult. But do-able. > I do not have microscopes etc. Tools, 25 watt iron with to big of a tip and > to large of a solder diameter. > Did create nasty solder bridges that I figured out a trick. Simply heat the > two legs and take a steel straight pin and run between the legs. Clears the > bridge nicely. But Bert and others suggested a different approach that I > will try tonight. > > Writing the program is the easier part ( Bert's done it already). There has > to be several versions. HP built 5-7 different 3586s series that are really > internally different and no magical way for the software to know what box > its in. After that it truly is a small number of wires. By the way in the C > code Bert has all of the frequency combinations for the different models. > Again no way to sense what box its in. Nope I do not really know C, but I > can read. > > But the real secret of all of this is collaboration. Bert and I both > contributed to the design, troubleshooting etc. I learned a heck of a lot > from Bert in the process. Thats what its about for me at least, sharing > learning and trying to apply. > > Sorry to say I can't get into the kit/board building business. > Regards > Paul > WB8TSL > > > On Fri, Apr 1, 2011 at 12:48 AM, WB6BNQ <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Perrier, >> >> Your simple idea is a non workable concept. Instead of whining about the >> complexity, why not contact Bert or Paul Swed and see if one of them would >> do you a favor and build the item for you. I do not believe the hookup part >> is that hard to do and if You follow instructions well it should be quite >> doable. >> >> Bill....WBBNQ >> >> Perry Sandeen wrote: >> >> > Fellow Listers, >> > >> > Please read and think a bit about my comments before rushing to the >> reply button. The comments are meant to be technical. >> > >> > When Burt VE2ZAZ posted his HP 3586A/B/C entirely referenced to 10MHz: A >> solution, I was drooling with envy to add it to my units. However, after >> reading what it took to make and program it I was completely deflated. >> > >> > While there are those on the list with extensive educational and >> technical resources, Burt’s project may be just fine. And for those who >> can make it, go for it. I made a pros and cons list. >> > >> > Advantages Dis-advantages >> > Small- Will fit inside case SMD Components >> > Low power requirements Needs Programming >> > Inexpensive Program varies for various models >> > Awesome build quality Almost comes up with the correct >> numbers >> > >> > Sometimes the only way to solve a problem is with SMD’s, programmed >> devices etc. But I suspect that for most of us “solutions†of this type >> are really impractical. Some posts seem to suggest that everyone can >> program devices, write code, and can work with SMD’s as easily as getting >> a hamburger at Micky D’s. It just ain’t so. On my level I have to use >> the KISS principle. >> > >> > Several alternative methods: >> > >> > The cheap method. Turn the crystals 90 degrees so they are >> perpendicular to the PC board. Make a simple TL431 temperature regulated >> circuit (I found it on the web by a google search) with a bit of copper and >> insulation. A small supplemental adjustable tuning capacitor and/or varicap >> circuit may be needed. It will probably get one as close as the original >> programmed mod IMHO. >> > >> > The high priced exact solution. Use a HP 3336 locked to the same >> external standard one is using for the HP 3586B. Remove the original >> crystal circuit and inject the exact number one needs and get the exact >> results without any dithering. >> > >> > I’m blessed to have almost all the test equipment, or its equivalents, >> mentioned on this list sans a spectrum analyzer and from post’s that I >> have read I’m way ahead of many of the members. >> > >> > I’ve been very impressed, and have learned a great deal, with the >> posts on the T’bolts, answers to my posted qurstions, WWVB, and HP >> oscillator fine tuning tips to name a few. >> > >> > On subjects over, or in many cases way over, my head I just read and >> delete but others find them both fascinating and useful and that’s just >> fine. >> > >> > Regards, >> > >> > Perrier >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] >> > To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> > and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
