On 4/29/2012 1:36 PM, Ed Palmer wrote:
Thank you Ed,Paul,and Marco for the reply's
The foam I was referring to is or was around ceramic base were the
igniter wire goes . Yes my wire also broke loose however I do not want
to disassemble any more than I have to. I think that just inserting it
back in to the hole and securing in some way should work. I do not know
what the potential is but I have seen a spark jump at least an eight of
an inch.
Tell me about the lamp voltage test point. My manual has no mention of
it? Were is it located?
In you first posting I think you mentioned some grounding problems. On
this unit there is a three pin amp connector on the rear on mine the
bottom pin -20 must be grounded or the unit will not work. The red light
will come on very bright but nothing else works.I believe you can also
ground the +20 this allows this to work in various ground polarity
systems IE telco systems +ground. Perhaps I am wrong. I have Hp113,Hp115
that caution you on the ground polarity of the systems you are
installing them in. I think all the -20 floats from chassis ground until
they get to that rear plug.
Thanks for foam an fiberglass suggestions.
Hi Don,
You know that we're going to be swapping many emails, don't you? :-)
On 4/29/2012 11:16 AM, Donald Henderickx wrote:
After following Ed Palmer's thread on 304b restoration,I was inspired
to get my GTC (tracor) 304b ser#279 going. It seems that the failure
of this unit was the break down of the foam that was wrapped around
the vcxo located inside the control box. The vapors or the moisture
the foam collected corroded the steel fasteners and caused the
switches to become intermittent.
The foam around my OCXO is still in great shape. Still spongy and
providing lots of holding force for the OCXO. My unit is serial #449.
The replacement of the foam in the control box is not that much of a
problem,what I need help with is what to use around the Rb lamp base.
The foam has turned to powder.
Do you mean foam around the back end of the lamp where the wire lead
comes out or the foam that surrounds the reflector (#16 in the picture
in the patent that describes the lamp (3311775))? My #16 foam is
really solid.
Should I try Home foam sealant? The cell's ,of this seem about the
same as the old foam.Will it take the heat?Should I make a fiberglass
cocoon to put around the lamp base.
Read the fine print on the can. It may list the maximum temperature
rating. I'd try a fiberglass cocoon first just because it's easily
reversible if it doesn't work. When your unit is running is the lamp
test point voltage correct?
Ed
The unit now achieves lock in about an hour. The only other thing I
did was to replace the caps in the main supply.
Any thoughts on the insulation?
Don H
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