Curious is the manual online? Would be interesting to look at. On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 6:33 PM, Ed Palmer <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi Don, > > On 4/29/2012 2:54 PM, Donald Henderickx wrote: > >> On 4/29/2012 1:36 PM, Ed Palmer wrote: >> >> Thank you Ed,Paul,and Marco for the reply's >> The foam I was referring to is or was around ceramic base were the >> igniter wire goes . Yes my wire also broke loose however I do not want to >> disassemble any more than I have to. I think that just inserting it back in >> to the hole and securing in some way should work. I do not know what the >> potential is but I have seen a spark jump at least an eight of an inch. >> > > The igniter wire has to be connected to the base of the lamp. The patent > explains it quite well. Just inserting it into the hole in the ceramic is > unlikely to work. I don't know what the voltage is, but the capacitor that > stores the voltage is rated for 400V. > > Does the foam look original? It definitely isn't on mine so I wasn't sure > if it was supposed to be there or not. The patent describes how the base > is the coolest part of the bulb. I don't know if a foam covering is > appropriate. > > Tell me about the lamp voltage test point. My manual has no mention of >> it? Were is it located? >> > > All the test points are described on page 5-3 of the manual. The lamp > heater test point is the sixth one from the top. Ground is the seventh > point. > > In you first posting I think you mentioned some grounding problems. On >> this unit there is a three pin amp connector on the rear on mine the bottom >> pin -20 must be grounded or the unit will not work. The red light will come >> on very bright but nothing else works.I believe you can also ground the +20 >> this allows this to work in various ground polarity systems IE telco >> systems +ground. Perhaps I am wrong. >> > > Do you mean the 3 pin round connector on the back? That's for an external > DC power supply. It has no other function and grounding the bottom pin > (which is ground) shouldn't make any difference. > > Ed > > > I have Hp113,Hp115 that caution you on the ground polarity of the systems >> you are installing them in. I think all the -20 floats from chassis ground >> until they get to that rear plug. >> Thanks for foam an fiberglass suggestions. >> >>> Hi Don, >>> >>> You know that we're going to be swapping many emails, don't you? :-) >>> >>> On 4/29/2012 11:16 AM, Donald Henderickx wrote: >>> >>>> After following Ed Palmer's thread on 304b restoration,I was inspired >>>> to get my GTC (tracor) 304b ser#279 going. It seems that the failure of >>>> this unit was the break down of the foam that was wrapped around the vcxo >>>> located inside the control box. The vapors or the moisture the foam >>>> collected corroded the steel fasteners and caused the switches to become >>>> intermittent. >>>> >>> >>> The foam around my OCXO is still in great shape. Still spongy and >>> providing lots of holding force for the OCXO. My unit is serial #449. >>> >>> The replacement of the foam in the control box is not that much of a >>>> problem,what I need help with is what to use around the Rb lamp base. The >>>> foam has turned to powder. >>>> >>> >>> Do you mean foam around the back end of the lamp where the wire lead >>> comes out or the foam that surrounds the reflector (#16 in the picture in >>> the patent that describes the lamp (3311775))? My #16 foam is really solid. >>> >>> Should I try Home foam sealant? The cell's ,of this seem about the same >>>> as the old foam.Will it take the heat?Should I make a fiberglass cocoon to >>>> put around the lamp base. >>>> >>> >>> Read the fine print on the can. It may list the maximum temperature >>> rating. I'd try a fiberglass cocoon first just because it's easily >>> reversible if it doesn't work. When your unit is running is the lamp test >>> point voltage correct? >>> >>> Ed >>> >>> The unit now achieves lock in about an hour. The only other thing I did >>>> was to replace the caps in the main supply. >>>> Any thoughts on the insulation? >>>> Don H >>>> >>> > ______________________________**_________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
