Should be easy enough for you to figure out. The idea is to
evaporate any rubidium that is blocking the light from leaving
the bulb and making a straight path to the filter cell, and
ultimately the detector end of the package. Look at the bulb
on the side where the light must exit, and if it is shiny
and black, heat it there until it clears.
-Chuck Harris
Don Latham wrote:
this would be even better with some arrows showing where to put the heat
to heal the lamp!
Don
[email protected]
Here is a PIX of various Rubidium lamps.
>From the left top,
Tracor EG&G LPRO 5065A R20 FRS PRS10
bottom two are FRK
I'll see if Tom Van Baak will add them to his site
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