Chuck hit the nail on the head. Thats what I have done and it restores the bulbs nicely. I have seen both the darkened area and actually a silver-ish glob that when heat moved around and finally evaporated. Paul WB8TSL
On Sat, Dec 29, 2012 at 9:15 AM, Chuck Harris <[email protected]> wrote: > Should be easy enough for you to figure out. The idea is to > evaporate any rubidium that is blocking the light from leaving > the bulb and making a straight path to the filter cell, and > ultimately the detector end of the package. Look at the bulb > on the side where the light must exit, and if it is shiny > and black, heat it there until it clears. > > -Chuck Harris > > > Don Latham wrote: > >> this would be even better with some arrows showing where to put the heat >> to heal the lamp! >> Don >> >> [email protected] >> >>> >>> >>> >>> Here is a PIX of various Rubidium lamps. >>> >>> >From the left top, >>> >>> Tracor EG&G LPRO 5065A R20 FRS PRS10 >>> >>> bottom two are FRK >>> >>> I'll see if Tom Van Baak will add them to his site >>> also__________________________**_____________________ >>> time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/**mailman/listinfo/time-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> >> >> > ______________________________**_________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts> > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- [email protected] To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
