Hi

How old is the FRK? Does it look like it's been run without a heat sink for 
very long? They tend to get flaky if run for a while (many months) without heat 
sinking. There's nothing mysterious about it. The MTBF of the parts gets 
noticeably worse as the unit heats up.

Bob

On Feb 9, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Garren Davis <garren.da...@qlogic.com> wrote:

> 
> Well for some reason the 10 Mhz stopped working on the FRK. Don't know why. 
> Started up the thunderbolt. It acquired satellites but then the DAC voltage 
> went to -5 volts. It's been there for an hour. Will this change after the 
> unit stabilizes? Going to bed. Will check it tomorrow.
> 
> Garren
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Feb 8, 2013, at 8:25 PM, "Ed Palmer" <ed_pal...@sasktel.net> wrote:
> 
>> Hi Garren,
>> 
>> I suggest that you get the Thunderbolt working first.  Without a known 10 
>> MHz source to compare to, you're flying blind.  Once the Tbolt is running, 
>> you should be able to check the frequency of the FRK by feeding both into 
>> your scope.  Trigger on the Tbolt and watch what the FRK does.  You should 
>> see the trace scrolling in one direction, then slow down, then stop, then 
>> scroll the other direction.  The 'stop' point is at 10 MHz.  The frequency 
>> sweeps a total of 20-30 Hz so it's easy to see.  If you don't see the 'stop' 
>> point, the FRK isn't getting to 10 MHz.  Now use the best frequency counter 
>> you've got to measure the Tbolt.  Regardless of the calibration of your 
>> counter, the number your counter gives you becomes your 'new' 10 MHz.  Now 
>> measure the FRK to see if it's running fast or slow.
>> 
>> You should check the temperature of the lamp.  It's easy to get at by 
>> removing the cover in the center of the heat sink.  Probably best to remove 
>> the cover and then power down before you go poking around inside!  The 
>> temperature of the cavity is also important, but getting to it is more of a 
>> hassle - don't go there if you don't have to.
>> 
>> Of course, check for the normal things like internal power supply voltages, 
>> ripple, current drain (both initial and steady-state), etc.
>> 
>> Regarding your second message, yes, the adjustment under the heat sink near 
>> the edge is the C-field.  That won't help you at this point.  The adjustment 
>> in the center of one side is the VCO.  You could try adjusting it, but like 
>> I said, you're flying blind at this point.  You won't know if you're 
>> adjusting closer to 10 MHz or further away.
>> 
>> Good luck,
>> 
>> Ed
>> 
>> 
>> On 2/8/2013 6:12 PM, Garren Davis wrote:
>>> Been lurking on the list for a while and finally started playing with a 
>>> FRK-L  rubidium frequency standard. I've had this thing for a while and 
>>> decided to power it up and see what it would do. I do not get a lock. What 
>>> I see is the lamp voltage at 8.54 volts which I think is good but the xtal 
>>> control voltage swings from 2 volts to 15 volts and back to 2 volts and 
>>> keeps cycling like that. I don't have a good frequency counter but I have a 
>>> 3 Ghz 40 G/sample scope and it shows that the 10 MHz signal is there. I 
>>> just don't know how accurate it is. Has anyone seen a problem like this? 
>>> Can anyone point me to a place to start debugging this? I have the 
>>> schematics and test tools. I am a test engineer so I'm not afraid to poke 
>>> around in the guts of this thing. Hopefully I can get this thing running. I 
>>> also have a thunderbolt that I'll get running this weekend. I don't know 
>>> how deep I'll get into this time-nuts thing but I have this nice scope and 
>>> a Wavecrest sitting in my garage an
> d
>> I'd lik
>> e to put them to use. Any help would be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Garren
>> 
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