Hi Garren,

Congrats on your repair. Since the crystal control voltage is spec'd as ~1 to 12 Vdc, you're apparently holding onto lock by the narrowest of margins. You definitely want to adjust the oscillator to bring that voltage closer to the middle of it's range.

Ed

On 2/9/2013 11:38 AM, Garren Davis wrote:
Found my problem with the FRK. R31 on the Osc board was burned and open. This 
was caused by a shorted C16. Replaced and it is now locked. The lock voltage is 
12.7v. Is this good or should it be lower?

Garren

On Feb 9, 2013, at 6:10 AM, "Bob Camp" <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi

How old is the FRK? Does it look like it's been run without a heat sink for 
very long? They tend to get flaky if run for a while (many months) without heat 
sinking. There's nothing mysterious about it. The MTBF of the parts gets 
noticeably worse as the unit heats up.

Bob

On Feb 9, 2013, at 1:09 AM, Garren Davis <[email protected]> wrote:

Well for some reason the 10 Mhz stopped working on the FRK. Don't know why. 
Started up the thunderbolt. It acquired satellites but then the DAC voltage 
went to -5 volts. It's been there for an hour. Will this change after the unit 
stabilizes? Going to bed. Will check it tomorrow.

Garren


On Feb 8, 2013, at 8:25 PM, "Ed Palmer" <[email protected]> wrote:

Hi Garren,

I suggest that you get the Thunderbolt working first.  Without a known 10 MHz 
source to compare to, you're flying blind.  Once the Tbolt is running, you 
should be able to check the frequency of the FRK by feeding both into your 
scope.  Trigger on the Tbolt and watch what the FRK does.  You should see the 
trace scrolling in one direction, then slow down, then stop, then scroll the 
other direction.  The 'stop' point is at 10 MHz.  The frequency sweeps a total 
of 20-30 Hz so it's easy to see.  If you don't see the 'stop' point, the FRK 
isn't getting to 10 MHz.  Now use the best frequency counter you've got to 
measure the Tbolt.  Regardless of the calibration of your counter, the number 
your counter gives you becomes your 'new' 10 MHz.  Now measure the FRK to see 
if it's running fast or slow.

You should check the temperature of the lamp.  It's easy to get at by removing 
the cover in the center of the heat sink.  Probably best to remove the cover 
and then power down before you go poking around inside!  The temperature of the 
cavity is also important, but getting to it is more of a hassle - don't go 
there if you don't have to.

Of course, check for the normal things like internal power supply voltages, 
ripple, current drain (both initial and steady-state), etc.

Regarding your second message, yes, the adjustment under the heat sink near the 
edge is the C-field.  That won't help you at this point.  The adjustment in the 
center of one side is the VCO.  You could try adjusting it, but like I said, 
you're flying blind at this point.  You won't know if you're adjusting closer 
to 10 MHz or further away.

Good luck,

Ed


On 2/8/2013 6:12 PM, Garren Davis wrote:
Been lurking on the list for a while and finally started playing with a FRK-L  
rubidium frequency standard. I've had this thing for a while and decided to 
power it up and see what it would do. I do not get a lock. What I see is the 
lamp voltage at 8.54 volts which I think is good but the xtal control voltage 
swings from 2 volts to 15 volts and back to 2 volts and keeps cycling like 
that. I don't have a good frequency counter but I have a 3 Ghz 40 G/sample 
scope and it shows that the 10 MHz signal is there. I just don't know how 
accurate it is. Has anyone seen a problem like this? Can anyone point me to a 
place to start debugging this? I have the schematics and test tools. I am a 
test engineer so I'm not afraid to poke around in the guts of this thing. 
Hopefully I can get this thing running. I also have a thunderbolt that I'll get 
running this weekend. I don't know how deep I'll get into this time-nuts thing 
but I have this nice scope and a Wavecrest sitting in my garage and I'd
 like to put them to use. Any help would be appreciated.
Garren


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