All,

I recently got an (obviously used) Trimble Thunderbolt (case says Rev B). 
Hooking it up to my bench PS, I got the unit fired up, and the OCXO relatively 
rapidly settled down to just over 26hz over 10Mhz (According to my Racal-Dana 
1992, which I’ve found to be EXTREMELY accurate compared to an Rb and other 
GPSDO). I thought that meant the PLL had locked, but I’ve since reconsidered 
since it didn’t take that long (looks like it takes quite a bit longer than 
that for the GPS to do a survey). Sadly, I couldn’t check the serial connection 
because I left my adapter at work, so I left it for the night.

Next day, I hooked a serial connection up, and got nothing at all. Checking the 
TX pin of the unit with my scope, I could see bursts of data, but with less 
than 1V deviation from the idle voltage level. 

So, I opened the unit up, and a quick inspection showed me pints 78 and 79 
(according to data sheet, those are TDO and +5V) on the Xilinx XC5202 were 
bridged with solder. That’s odd. Also had obviously been reworked at some point 
due to the heavy amounts of flux residue around. After finally finding a good 
image of this area online (http://www.thegleam.com/ke5fx/tbolt/conns.gif), I 
determined that they shouldn’t be bridged, and fixed that. Powered the unit 
back up, and still nothing. Also noting that the 5V rail was drawing over 
600mA. Finger testing around the board quickly found the RS232 chip (232IBE, 
now called an ICL232) to be HOT! That it gets so almost immediately after power 
on. Checking the pins, the +5V and GND for that chip show about 54ohms 
resistance. I checked the support tantalums and ceramic caps around it, but 
they all show higher resistance (Keithley 6.5digit meter for the win). 

So, my questions to all: pull the IC and see if there’s any data showing up on 
pin 11 or 10 (haven’t traced out which is being used), just replace the chip (I 
_MIGHT_ have an extra (ICL232, MAX232, etc) in a drawer somewhere), or should I 
look somewhere else for an issue (shorted Tantalum, etc)? Guess just pulling 
the chip and seeing if the power draw on the 5V goes down might not be a bad 
bet either (I do have a hot air rework “gun”). Or just clip/lift it’s 5V pin 
and see if that resolves the issue. The unit should still lock eventually 
without that chip. 

Anything else I might want to check? 

Thanks all, and thanks Tom Van Baak for the encouragement to test more before 
posting to the list. =)

-Ryan Stasel
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