On 10/27/16 2:43 AM, Neville Michie wrote:
The nature of air is that when you heat it by one degree Celcius the humidity
falls by 10%.
That does not change the moisture content of the air, just the activity of the
same amount of
water vapour with regards to any material with an equilibrium moisture content.
So it is important to control temperature fluctuation if you are going to
control relative humidity.
cheers,
In this particular case, I did do the calculation of "mass fraction of
water" from the data - the AC really does pull the water out of the air.
The "test article" in this case has relatively small air volume, and a
large surface area of wood. Water goes out fast, comes in slow.
There might also be a surface condensation issue on the glass surfaces.
If you look at the wet bulb temperature, it runs a few degrees below the
air temperature, except when the AC is on, when it plunges several
degrees in seconds.
Neville Michie
On 27 Oct 2016, at 8:17 PM, David J Taylor <[email protected]>
wrote:
From: jimlux
You can buy the smallest "window" airconditioner and "plumb" it to your
chamber (I used dryer vent hose, cardboard, and lots of duct tape)
Attached is a plot temperature and RH of an insulated box about 1.2
meter wide, 2 meters tall and 60 cm deep, filled with 100 or so 750 ml
bottles of liquid.
The temperature is fairly stable, but the RH varies wildly - basically,
when the AC unit kicks on, it sucks all the water out of the air in the
box, and then, when it turns off, the (damp) walls of the box rapidly
rehumidify the air.
_______________________________________________
Thanks for that, Jim, and for the graph.
Your graph suggests to me that using /any/ form of artificial control may give worse
short-term results than simply leaving an underground, uninhabited room with outside
walls just "as-is". The slow daily variations may be far more tolerable than
excursions due to heaters etc. being switched on and off.
Cheers,
David
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