Hi,
my recommendation is to first check the batteries you are using to test.
Do they work fine in a different remote control? If the terminal pad
looks dull, you might use some sand paper to recondition it. However, if
you do this you may damage the plastic surface around the connector pad
so it may be best to open the remote control and get the PCB out so you
have better access to the connectors.
There are three main reasons why it fails:
- power issue: remote control does not get any power (e.g. because
batteries empty / bad battery connectors)
- IR LED issue: the infrared emitter (LED-style housing) may have
become detached from the PCB. As the pictures below illustrate, the
LED does not have any means of strain relief. It is just fixed in two
places, i.e. the solder pads. This is even worse with remote control
units for the Classic as they expose the LED outside. Pusing it in
rips it off the solder pads definitely. This is a bit better in the
Touch control as the LED is hidden behind a red window
- control IC issue: the integrated circuit that does the main job of
the remote control may be damaged. This is K.O. then, as this is a
special part that is not available on the free market
Here are some pictures of my Touch remote control PCB and the IR LED,
particularly how it is attached:
24025
24026
24027
Even though the IR emitter is not reachable outside, dropping the remote
control to the floor may still rip the LED off thanks to gravity.
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PN me if your Boom / Classic / Transporter display has issues!
LMS 7.9.0 on Windows Server 2012
1x Squezeebox Classic SB2
7x Squeezebox Classic SB3 (one waiting for repair)
7x Squeezebox Boom (two waiting for repair)
1x Transporter
2x Controller (one waiting for repair)
3x Touch (two waiting for repair)
1x Radio
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View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=108262
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