Hi J.B. well I was reading trough these postings while doing some Saturday maintenance and installs on my computer. Not working on the boat for a change.
Anyway if you use your 4 position to switch from Bat#1 to Bat#2 or both Batteries while the engine runs you might end up with a destroyed regulator on your alternator. These switches are not meant to be used while the engine runs. During the switching the regulator can't regulate the voltage since there is now battery connected. This means the voltage produced from the alternator, some 18 volts or so will peak onto your house circuit the second you connect the house battery, probably not something you would intent to do. For these two reasons I would suggest a smart charging system (expensive) or use a setup with a charging relays. Modern alternators have a connection to activate the relay once power is produced, if you have an older alternator you could use a oil- pressure-safety-switch or a vacuum-switch which are commonly used as safety feature on engines running on propane somehow not my first choice. As relay use something big (min 120amp)as there will be considerable amount of amps flowing between the two circuits for a short therm if your house batteries are almost empty. Depending on your budget you can spend a lot on these gadgets. I will do a different design myself since I'm on a tight budget. BB (Batterie Bank) #1 will be the big one and actually runs everything and BB #2 emergency starter battery In this scenario I don't have to be to concerned about the size of the relay since BB #2 should be charged up all the time. Instead of using the 4 position switch there will be a separate high amp. switch to connect the circuits to act as a bridge while I'm switching the 4 position switch to BOTH once the engines are running. I know this sounds a little confusing but it works for me. In my experience I did not switch at all while being anchored because I was just to lazy to move the crew and stuff out of the way to open the aft deck and actually turn the switch. In my setup I only have to climb into the hole if the BB #1 is really to weak to turn the starter. Further down you mentioned that your are concerned about the high current flowing through your electronics while you start the engine. Don't be. The current is flowing through the thick cables going to the starter on the shortest way. Actually the there is no power (current) really going trough the rest of the electronics at all. Sure there is just not a general setup which works for all the needs that are out there but I wouldn't mix battery types unless there is no other option. Keep us posted what are you going to do and how it works out. --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/UnifliteWorld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
