Definitely check the height of your risers, but also check to be sure
you have a flap over your exhaust outlets.  Otherwise, when backing
down, you ram water up the pipe and into the engine.  This also
happens at very slow speeds, especially with a following sea.  I've
seen a lot of boats that have had the exhaust flap removed and a
length of hose put over the exhaust port to extend the end of the
exhaust to the edge of the swim step or beyond, with no flap on the
end.  This is just asking for trouble.

If you're going to do that (or if you have that) you need either to
put a flap on the end of the extension hose, or a flap unit in the
exhaust line inside the boat.

A waterlift muffler will serve the same purpose, but they're not a
good choice for two-stroke Detroit Diesels, which are exceedingly
intolerant of exhaust backpressure.  Because they're two strokes, even
minimal backpressure will prevent the intake charge from pushing out
the burned fuel/air from the cylinder at cranking speed or idle, and
they won't start and/or will idle poorly.

Some in-line mufflers incorporate a check valve or flap internally; if
you don't have flaps on the outlets, you need to use one of these
mufflers.  This one is really nice, it has a check valve (flap) and it
incorporates a connection for an exhaust temperature sensor.  This
will tell you almost immediately if your raw water flow stops, because
the quick rise in exhaust temp without water flow will trip the sensor
and alert you to the problem long before you can get engine damage due
to no flow through the heat exchanger.

http://www.fisheriessupply.com/online/ln_menu/product.asp/Ntt/exhaust+flap/product_id/256984/No/50/mode/1/N/0/Dx/mode+matchallpartial/Nty/1/R/6991/D/exhaust+flap/catalog_name/FISCO/Ntx/mode+matchpartial+rel+Inactive/act/A01/Ntk/All

Not cheap, but better than an engine rebuild, which you're looking at
if you got salt water in your cylinders.  Unless you are very, very
lucky, that is.


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