Another possibility on model number, although I haven't verified to respond to this question:
Remove the burners and burner pans. Lift open the burner deck - there are clips on each side, you may need to use a screwdriver to release the clips. At the front of the unit under the burner deck there's a metal cover over the electrical connections. Unscrew the cover. Underneath, adhered to the top of the oven casing, is a sticker that shows the alternate electrical connections and *may* also have the model number printed on it. The alternative electrical connections allow you - if you have the electrical capacity - to bypass the switch that you use to select between the oven and out one of the burners. In other words, if you have the capacity, you can rewire the unit so all top burners and the oven can be used together. The default installation, with the switch, keeps total current draw below 20 amps. If you use all burners plus the oven, you're right around 30 amps, and you need a circuit breaker and wiring on both the branch circuit and the house main that will handle that load. This information is from my memory; I bought my Princess range (used) a couple of years ago and replaced the input lead which was brittle and cracked. I remember seeing the decal when I was doing the wiring, but decided not to go with the full functionality option since I only have a 30-amp house circuit. If for some reason someone was using all 3 burners and the oven, and the water heater kicked on, it would overload my system. Good luck at any rate. --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/UnifliteWorld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
