This list is great.  The amount of knowledge rattling in those salty air
filled heads is awesome. :-)

Thanks,

Kerry

Luis Bunuel <http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/l/luis_bunuel.html>
- "Age is something that doesn't matter, unless you are a cheese."

On Fri, Jul 10, 2009 at 3:38 AM, waterguy <[email protected]> wrote:

>
> Another possibility on model number, although I haven't verified to
> respond to this question:
>
> Remove the burners and burner pans.  Lift open the burner deck - there
> are clips on each side, you may need to use a screwdriver to release
> the clips.  At the front of the unit under the burner deck there's a
> metal cover over the electrical connections.  Unscrew the cover.
> Underneath, adhered to the top of the oven casing, is a sticker that
> shows the alternate electrical connections and *may* also have the
> model number printed on it.
>
> The alternative electrical connections allow you - if you have the
> electrical capacity - to bypass the switch that you use to select
> between the oven and out one of the burners.  In other words, if you
> have the capacity, you can rewire the unit so all top burners and the
> oven can be used together.  The default installation, with the switch,
> keeps total current draw below 20 amps.  If you use all burners plus
> the oven, you're right around 30 amps, and you need a circuit breaker
> and wiring on both the branch circuit and the house main that will
> handle that load.
>
> This information is from my memory; I bought my Princess range (used)
> a couple of years ago and replaced the input lead which was brittle
> and cracked.  I remember seeing the decal when I was doing the wiring,
> but decided not to go with the full functionality option since I only
> have a 30-amp house circuit.  If for some reason someone was using all
> 3 burners and the oven, and the water heater kicked on, it would
> overload my system.
>
> Good luck at any rate.
>  >
>

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