And a hearty second to rocoloco'advice about looking for dry rot. If you find you have a soft transom, I heartily recommend Jim Anderson's book, "Runabout Renovation: How to Find and Fix Up an Old Fiberglass Speedboat."
He has a whole chapter about how to replace your original plywood transom with one that will be much stronger and longer lasting (instead of using a single piece of 1-1/2" plywood, he uses two 3/8th's inch pieces, and laminates them together, along with a piece of fiberglass mat and expoy resin between the two pieces. Gives you the same width, but markedly stronger due to the glass mat. Plus, you can use two pieces of outdoor-grade A-C plywood, with the C sides facing each other, and the voids and knotholes will be filled by the epoxy. Much, much cheaper than a 1-1/2" sheet of A-A grade plywood, and don't even think about marine grade. (Bob S - I'm blushing. I'm not a boatbuilder or naval architect, just a guy that's been obsessed with boats ever since I remember going on my dad's as a toddler. Most of the stuff I've either learned from hanging around boatyards, or (as with the Coast Guard formula) by a Google search. I first found out about the HP formula from a discussion on the Boston Whaler group (I have an 11-foot Whaler as a dinghy for my Uni). But thanks. :-) --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "UnifliteWorld" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/unifliteworld?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
