The biggest problem with steel valve covers is bending the flange by over
tightening, or tightening too fast. GM used to have (maybe still does) an
oval washer for the fastening bolt to spread the load over a larger area of
the flange to minimize bending.
Neoprene rubber gaskets require a lot less tightening torque to seal than
cork.
After spending a weeks pay on two mechanics who both botched the valve covers I decided to do them myself with the tips that I had learned from all you VACers :)
I found a used but unwarped pair of valve covers at a local hot rod shop. They carefully ballpean hammered the hols to make sure they were not bent inward from previous use.
I bought ROL Performance Gaskets. They are a compound of Blue Nitrile/Cork and twice as thick as the old gaskets. I used Edelbrock gasket adhesive which also can be used as a belt dressing?
I took Dr. G's advice and found the spreaders that distribute the force. They are about four inches long. I put a washer under the spreaders to add a subtle force as the nuts were tightened. Followed everyone's advice and tightened slowly and cross the cover (sort of like how we tighten lugs on a wheel).
Drove on freeway and stop and go with bonnet open. The valve cover is as tight as a drum. There is no more oil oozing down onto the exhaust manifold. There is still some smoke but it was far less than before. I hope that it is just old oil burning off from unseen places BUT
Tomorrow I will continue my quest for no smoke and tears. I will be watching the pan gasket like a hawk. This gasket was supposedly done three weeks ago by the same mechanic that did Job#2 on the valve covers.
Bob
