VACList-Digest       Tuesday, October 2, 2001      Issue 80
  
Today's Topics:
  
        1. Re: Tires for 1971 31' International
        2. Re: Toilet Leak
        3. Re: Tires for 1971 31' International
        4. Re: ne tire wear
        5. Re: Spare Tire Carrier
        6. Re: One tire wear
        7. Re: Spare Tire Carrier
        8. Re: Ha, I think I found my Truck, finally.
        9. Re: Tires for 1971 31' International
       10. Re: Spare Tire Carrier
       11. Re: 
       12. Re: tow vehicles
       13. Towing with a Suburban:  They're not all the same
       14. Kelly Blue Books- Free!
       15. Top O' Georgia Route?
       16. Re: 
       17. Re: Kelly Blue Books- Free!
       18. Re: Top O' Georgia Route?
       19. Re: Kelly Blue Books- Free!
       20. Re: Top O' Georgia Route?




----------------------------------------------------------------------




Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 20:30:23 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tires for 1971 31' International

Molly,
 It has been said many times in this forum that "if your tires are over
5 years old OR you don't know how old they are, replace them".

Although the tires on our "new to us" trailer looked good on the
sidewalls and were load-rated high enough, I decided to follow that
advice. When I removed the wheels to take 'em to the tire store, I found
pretty severe cracking between the treads.

Sure glad I paid attention! :-)

Although tires are expensive, the consequences of a failure are way too
high to take chances. I've not heard of anyone's loosing control and
rolling the trailer, but a tire failure generally causes severe damage
to the wheel well.

Your trailer is going to be pretty heavy when loaded for travel, so be
sure your new tires are rated accordingly. Get the trailer weighed, and
figure that you'll add at least 1000# of 'stuff'. That sounds high, but
we carry 700# or so in a much smaller trailer than yours, just for the 2
of us. 

                                      <<Jim>>

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> Greetings everyone!  My husband, Ben, and I are new to the group and
> are the happy new owners of a 1971 31' International Sovereign Land
> Yacht.  As a couple in our late 20s/early 30s, we're probably a bit of
> an anomaly with our A/S, but we absolutely love it.
> 
> My questions centers on tires.  The couple we purchased the trailer
> from just cycled the Goodyears from their tow vehicle (Suburban) to
> the trailer.  We're feeling a little less than confident in used
> passenger vehicle-type tires.  Any recommendations as to what we
> should look for as replacements?  We'll probably average 5000-6000
> miles per year, and we store the trailer outside.  Thanks in advance
> for your advice.
> 
> Regards,
> Ben and Molly Butterworth

-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------

Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 21:13:17 -0400
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Toilet Leak


------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C14ABD.E426B1A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Kit
The photos look like you have a Thetford Aqua Toilet. I was just going th=
ru many RV places looking for parts for my Thetford Slide-O-Matic which i=
s no longer made, but I saw many that look like the one in the photo. I d=
on't think you will have much trouble finding parts for it.

Good luck
Bobby =20
 =20
----- Original Message -----
From: Kit Sullivan Mac.com
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 2:54 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Toilet Leak
 =20
I have a leak in the toilet of my 1962 Bambi. The problem occurs whenever=
 I
press the flush pedal - nothing leaks out if the hole between the bowl an=
d
the tank is closed, even if the toilet is full (I tested this with blue
holding tank deodorizer) but the moment I press the pedal to flush the
toilet, it immediately begins to ooze out from beneath the pedal. I think
the problem is with the seal on the bowl side of the little disc that mov=
es
aside to let the contents of the toilet fall into the tank. When I was
tracking down the leak, it seemed that some (a good amount, not just a
couple of drops) of the holding tank deodorant was swept into the body of
the toilet and subsequently leaked down to the pedal mechanism and onto t=
he
floor. I took a couple of photos of the problem to illustrate what is
happening. The photos can be found at:

http://homepage.mac.com/kitsullivan/PhotoAlbum2.html

I am not sure what caused this leak, although it does seem to be getting
worse. I cleaned the toilet with bleach when I first got it - could that
have caused something in the toilet to deteriorate? How do I repair this
problem? Do I need to replace the toilet? I don't know if it is the origi=
nal
toilet, it is not the one pictured in the Owner's Manual that I have. Tha=
nk
you for any advice you can offer!

Kit
1962 Bambi




To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C14ABD.E426B1A0
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Kit</DIV> <DIV=
>The photos look like you have a Thetford Aqua Toilet. I was just going t=
hru many RV places looking for parts for my Thetford Slide-O-Matic which =
is no longer made, but I saw many that look like the one in the photo. I =
don't think you will have much trouble finding parts for it.</DIV> <DIV>&=
nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Good luck</DIV> <DIV>Bobby&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>=
 <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT:=
 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"F=
ONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGRO=
UND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Kit Sullivan M=
ac.com</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, October=
 01, 2001 2:54 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Multip=
le recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject=
:</B> [VAC] Toilet Leak</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>I have a leak in the toile=
t of my 1962 Bambi. The problem occurs whenever I<BR>press the flush peda=
l - nothing leaks out if the hole between the bowl and<BR>the tank is clo=
sed, even if the toilet is full (I tested this with blue<BR>holding tank =
deodorizer) but the moment I press the pedal to flush the<BR>toilet, it i=
mmediately begins to ooze out from beneath the pedal. I think<BR>the prob=
lem is with the seal on the bowl side of the little disc that moves<BR>as=
ide to let the contents of the toilet fall into the tank. When I was<BR>t=
racking down the leak, it seemed that some (a good amount, not just a<BR>=
couple of drops) of the holding tank deodorant was swept into the body of=
<BR>the toilet and subsequently leaked down to the pedal mechanism and on=
to the<BR>floor. I took a couple of photos of the problem to illustrate w=
hat is<BR>happening. The photos can be found at:<BR><BR>http://homepage.m=
ac.com/kitsullivan/PhotoAlbum2.html<BR><BR>I am not sure what caused this=
 leak, although it does seem to be getting<BR>worse. I cleaned the toilet=
 with bleach when I first got it - could that<BR>have caused something in=
 the toilet to deteriorate? How do I repair this<BR>problem? Do I need to=
 replace the toilet? I don't know if it is the original<BR>toilet, it is =
not the one pictured in the Owner's Manual that I have. Thank<BR>you for =
any advice you can offer!<BR><BR>Kit<BR>1962 Bambi<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>To =
unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>http://ai=
rstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a message, pl=
ease delete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY>=
</HTML>

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C14ABD.E426B1A0--


------------------------------

Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 19:11:18 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tires for 1971 31' International

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Greetings everyone!  My husband, Ben, and I are new to the group and
> are the happy new owners of a 1971 31' International Sovereign Land
> Yacht.  As a couple in our late 20s/early 30s, we're probably a bit of
> an anomaly with our A/S, but we absolutely love it.
>
> My questions centers on tires.  The couple we purchased the trailer
> from just cycled the Goodyears from their tow vehicle (Suburban) to
> the trailer.  We're feeling a little less than confident in used
> passenger vehicle-type tires.  Any recommendations as to what we
> should look for as replacements?  We'll probably average 5000-6000
> miles per year, and we store the trailer outside.  Thanks in advance
> for your advice.
>
> Regards,
> Ben and Molly Butterworth

The recommended tire for you coach is an ST225 75R15 Load range D or E.
The ST in the type indicates that the tire is a "Special Type" designed
for straight line towing. It is built with added sidewall stiffness and
UV protection.
Auto and LT series tires are not recommended for a trailer application
partly because their softer sidewall which give a smoother ride also
allow the tire to squirm and a trailer to sway.

Charlie




------------------------------

Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 19:15:39 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ne tire wear

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> In a message dated 9/30/01 10:06:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> <<
>  Let me guess, the one that's wearing more is the curbside front axle? Is is
> very
>  likely the axle is bent slightly out of alignment. This is a repairable
>  condition if you can find someone who can do the work. Depends on where you
> are.
>
>  Charlie
>   >>
>
> Close, curbside rear. Sounds logical it would be the front now that you
> mention it. I am in south eastern PA between Reading and Philadelphia. How is
> this condition altered? In the off chance that this was something that was
> common I did call a local RV dealer, their reply was the axles were shot and
> I should cut my losses and take a look at the new stock in the lot. (SOB's)
> Should have expected that.
>
> Thanks, J.L.Dietz #4361
>

No way. Duro Torque axles are designed to be aligned. The 70's service manuals
dedicate many many pages to how it is done. I don't know for sure but you might
want to check with Parkview (they are in the Membership Directory) or even the
factory which ever is closer.

Charlie



------------------------------

Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 22:24:01 -0400
From: Steve Hingtgen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Carrier

John,

Take a look at RJ's trailer.  He has a good photo of an original tire carrier that 
looks like a very nice design.  
http://www.vintageairstream.com/myrtle_tour_details.html
Hey RJ, how about making a dimensional sketch of that contraption and posting it 
somewhere so I can build one myself?

Steve
http://www.AirstreamDreams.com



On Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:39:46 -0700, VACList wrote:
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Spare Tire Storage
>
>Looking for someone that may have experience placing the spare tire
>between �propane tanks and the front of the trailer on the tongue.
>I am thinking of �having a welder move the tanks forward two inches
>and make room for the spare �tire. �I know this will add to the
>tongue weight. � Is this a significant �problem? � Are there other
>significant problems with using the tongue as a �support for spare
>tire storage? � What are others doing with their spare �tires?
>
>Thanks, John Semon [EMAIL PROTECTED] San Luis Obispo, Ca.




------------------------------

Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 22:41:32 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: One tire wear

Charlie, I went out this afternoon and looked around and started to tug on 
the tires. That wheel has slight play in it. When pulling on the top you can 
hear the play. Grabbing the front and rear of the tire and trying to shift 
it, no movement. Could this be a red flag?

J.L.Dietz 


------------------------------

Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:16:59 -0700
From: "Sherry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Carrier

> He has a good photo of an
> original tire carrier that looks like a very nice design.
> http://www.vintageairstream.com/myrtle_tour_details.html

My '63 Bambi has a tire carrier that looks very much like RJ's, except it is
an A-frame.

Happy Trails - Sherry (wishing her Bambi were as shiny as RJ's Caravel)
'63 Bambi, WBCCI 1104, VAC, WDCU, TCT




------------------------------

Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:23:36 -0700
From: Tom Jones <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Ha, I think I found my Truck, finally.

Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2001 20:08:09 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Ha, I think I found my Truck, finally.

At 05:44 PM 9/30/2001 -0600, you wrote:
>  I used to pull with a surburban, but my Dodge 3/4 ton diesel
>makes towing a breeze and enjoyable...[snip]

         Was your suburban also a 3/4 ton (2500) with a 4.1:1 rear end?

- Dick
(5368)


I'll chime in here...
I pull a '75 31' Sovereign with my wife's 2000 3/4 ton Suburban (6 liter,
4.10 rear end),
and have never had an occasion where the truck wasn't enough.  Most of our
trips are to Petit
Jean Mountain in Arkansas (approx. 1 1/2 miles up a steep grade from a near
standstill).  This 
climb (and descent) brings out any inadequacies in a tow vehicle.  I will
say that this Suburban 
is better suited to climbing than my (her old) 94 model.  It is also a 3/4
ton, but with 3.73 gears
and a 350.  On the open road there is not a very noticeable difference.

Tom


------------------------------

Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 23:21:57 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tires for 1971 31' International

Molly:

         I second Jim's remarks; I have had two tire failures with 
5-year-old tires,and the second one really banged up the wheel well - about 
$700 worth.  Buy new tires, and check the dates on the tires they want to 
sell you *before* you let them mount them.  Sometimes, tires are stored for 
years after manufacture.

- Dick
(5368)

At 08:30 PM 10/1/2001 -0400, Jim Dunmyer wrote:
>Molly,
>  It has been said many times in this forum that "if your tires are over
>5 years old OR you don't know how old they are, replace them".
>[snip]

"Think like a man of action.  Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/



------------------------------

Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 21:24:44 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Spare Tire Carrier

Not a bad idea.  It is made from heavy gauge industrial overhead channel
(the kind used in buildings to suspend ceilings, lights & mechanicals,
so it could be duplicated easy.  Mine is a commercial built unit, but
any welding shop could build one, requiring just a spare tire mount
plate as the only other major component. 

Taking off tomorrow afternoon for a week in the southern Sierras in the
Caravel for some fall color, so it'll be a while.  I'll put it on the website.

RJ
VintageAirstream.com

Steve Hingtgen wrote:
> 
> Take a look at RJ's trailer.  He has a good photo of an original tire carrier that 
>looks like a very nice >> design.  
>http://www.vintageairstream.com/myrtle_tour_details.html
> Hey RJ, how about making a dimensional sketch of that contraption and posting it 
>somewhere so I > > can build one myself?
> Steve
> http://www.AirstreamDreams.com
> 
> On Mon, 1 Oct 2001 16:39:46 -0700, VACList wrote:
> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: Spare Tire Storage
> >
> >Looking for someone that may have experience placing the spare tire
> >between �propane tanks and the front of the trailer on the tongue.


------------------------------

Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2001 00:25:11 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 


--part1_c1.14bc3e7e.28ea9ba7_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

In a message dated 01/10/01 06:38:48 p.m. Central Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Jay

On the way home from a recent trip the frame on my '57 Caravanner broke, 
although I did get it home.  I have since had it taken on a low-boy trailer 
to my nearest Airstream dealer, in Bradley, IL.  When they get the bottom off 
they will have a local welder who does all their RV welding repairs build a 
new frame from the break all the way to the ball.  We are anticipating 
spending $600-800 for the new frame, but the whole repair will run +/- $2,500 
counting all the time and trouble to dismount and remount the bottom skin.  I 
would suggest you contact welders who work on semi rigs and RVs to see if 
they'd do the work.

Bert (The Salty Dog)
 

--part1_c1.14bc3e7e.28ea9ba7_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2><B>In a message dated 01/10/01 06:38:48 
p.m. Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<BR>
<BR></B>Jay
<BR>
<BR>On the way home from a recent trip the frame on my '57 Caravanner broke, although 
I did get it home. &nbsp;I have since had it taken on a low-boy trailer to my nearest 
Airstream dealer, in Bradley, IL. &nbsp;When they get the bottom off they will have<BR>
<BR>Bert (The Salty Dog)
<BR> </FONT></HTML>

--part1_c1.14bc3e7e.28ea9ba7_boundary--


------------------------------

Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2001 21:34:43 -0700
From: RJ & Krista <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: tow vehicles

Until we got the more powerful (& comfortable) Montero, we pulled our
17' Caravel with our '96 F-150 with the 5 speed manual & 3.73 rear end. 
It is near tow capacity (3500#) due to the lightweight tranny & clutch,
and 1st, Reverse & 5th gear are geared way too high (or low, depending
on your training).  It was OK for the most part, you just shifted down
into 2nd to go over the high mountain passes in the Sierras and
Cascades.  I think it could handle 2 more feet of trailer.

RJ 
'65 Caravel
'57 Flying Cloud

> DH wrote:
> Hello,
> Speaking of tow vehicles.  Will a Ford F-150 2wd 5 liter (5 speed
> manual) pull a 67' GT with little difficulty?  Thanks, Dave H


------------------------------

Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 08:18:06 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Towing with a Suburban:  They're not all the same

Tom:

At 08:23 PM 10/1/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>[snip]
>I'll chime in here...I pull a '75 31' Sovereign with my wife's 2000 3/4 
>ton Suburban (6 liter,
>4.10 rear end), and have never had an occasion where the truck wasn't 
>enough.  Most of our
>trips are to Petit Jean Mountain in Arkansas (approx. 1 1/2 miles up a 
>steep grade from a near
>standstill)...[snip]

         Thanks, Tom...that was exactly my point.  I use a 1999, 3/4 ton 
Suburban, 7.4 liter engine, 4.1:1 rear end to pull a 28', 1995 Excella with 
an 8200# GVWR, with no trouble at all.  My previous tower was a 1984, 3/4 
ton, 7.4L with a 3.23 rear axle.  It also performed very well, except for 
slowing to 35 mph on 8% grades.
          I asked the question because there have been a number of posts 
comparing  lesser Suburbans (typically 1/2 ton) with 3/4 ton or 1 ton, 
diesels, and the comparison is meaningless.

- Dick
(5368)

"Think like a man of action.  Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/



------------------------------

Message Number: 14
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 06:48:00 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Kelly Blue Books- Free!

My local library had a book sale.  I picked up some Kelly Blue Books that 
were not very old (all 2001 editions).  The price was right (75 cents 
each).  They cover older Airstreams and new units. The extra Kelly Blue 
Books that I picked up and can give away are:

1) Official RV Guide; Travel Trailers, 5th Wheels, and Folding Trailers 
(Oct 2000- March 2001)

2) Official RV Guide; Travel Trailers, 5th Wheels, and Folding Trailers 
(April- Sep. 2001)

3) Official RV Guide Motor Homes Campers Van Conversions (No Trailers) May- 
Aug. 2001

Note that the 3rd book does *not* list travel trailers.

If anyone wants one of the above, email me with your snail mail address and 
I will drop one in the mail to you (free).

jack in Portland Oregon




------------------------------

Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 09:47:40 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Top O' Georgia Route?

We will be attending the Top O' Georgia rally next month.

We are coming from Ohio, down I-75.

Streets & Trips says that the "fastest" route to the campground is to leave 
I-75 in Knoxville, TN, and head south on US Highways. It runs right by the 
Smokey mountains National park, and thorough several national forests. The 
scenery should be lovely this time of year.

However, Street & Trips does not take into consideration that hauling 7000 
pounds of trailer up and down mountains tends to slow things down.

So I did an alternate route, that stays on the freeway till Cleveland, TN, 
then heads East to the campground. This, supposedly, takes 1/2 hour longer 
than the "shortest" route.

You can see the "preferred" route here: 
http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/airstream/TOG1.htm
You can see the alternate route here: 
http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/airstream/TOG2.htm

Has anyone taken either route? If so, any words of advice on which to use? 
Or, is there a better route?

Coming down, I am interested in taking the fastest route, assuming that 
both are passable :-) We can take the more scenic route on the way home, as 
we plan on taking two days to do that.

I will be towing a 31' Sovereign.

Dave

P.S. - I highly recommend the Microsoft Streets & Trips product. It's MUCH 
better than the free web-based route planning programs.

_________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio



------------------------------

Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 10:05:30 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 

Bert,
 When I was going over our 1968 G.T., I decided I wanted to remount the
little 'hitch ball' that's used by the sway control. To my mind, the
best way was to drill and tap for 3/8-24 (fine thread) instead of those
big ol' sheetmetal screws. Imagine my surprise when I found the lower
part of the 'A' frame channel too badly rusted to hold threads.
Actually, it wasn't all that surprising because the umbilical cord was
routed into the top of that channel, then through it to the connection
point under the belly; it directs water right into the 'A' frame.

Although I towed the trailer on a few trips, I never used spring bars.
Didn't feel they were needed with the light tongue weight and didn't
want to put the extra strain on the 'A' frame. Later in the season, my
buddy and I removed the belly skin in the front and cut the 'A' frame
off about 4" ahead of the trailer body. It looked good at that point, so
we fabricated a new 'A' frame from 4" channel, welded on a new hitch
(from Northern Tool), installed the jack mounting plate, etc, then
welded it onto the stubs of the original frame. Boxed it in with some
1/4" flat stock, painted it, and called it "good". I was prepared to go
back as far as necessary to get to good metal, of course. We reinstalled
the belly skin and she was good to go. I doubt that the total cost was
$200.00, including the bug bomb of aluminum paint. I'm fortunate enough
to have MIG and stick welding equipment. :-)

Needless to say, I did NOT reinstall the umbilical cable in the 'A'
frame!

A couple of years ago, a lady in this forum posted a story and pictures
of the 'A' frame failure on their A/S during a coast-to-coast trip. I
suspect that this is not at all uncommon on older trailers and is
something worth checking.

                                      <<Jim>>

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
>
> Jay
> 
> On the way home from a recent trip the frame on my '57 Caravanner
> broke, although I did get it home.  I have since had it taken on a
> low-boy trailer to my nearest Airstream dealer, in Bradley, IL.  When
> they get the bottom off they will have a local welder who does all
> their RV welding repairs build a new frame from the break all the way
> to the ball.  We are anticipating spending $600-800 for the new frame,
> but the whole repair will run +/- $2,500 counting all the time and
> trouble to dismount and remount the bottom skin.  I would suggest you
> contact welders who work on semi rigs and RVs to see if they'd do the
> work.
> 
> Bert (The Salty Dog)

-- 

                       <<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
                                <<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
                               <<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
                            <<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>


------------------------------

Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 10:13:04 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Kelly Blue Books- Free!

I dont suppose it would be "legal" to scan, or otherwise copy the Airstream 
info and put it on the web, would it?

After all, the data IS "old" :-)

Dave

At 06:48 AM 10/2/01 -0700, you wrote:
>My local library had a book sale.  I picked up some Kelly Blue Books that 
>were not very old (all 2001 editions).  The price was right (75 cents 
>each).  They cover older Airstreams and new units. The extra Kelly Blue 
>Books that I picked up and can give away are:

Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]

WBCCI: 5074

1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio



------------------------------

Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 11:31:18 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Top O' Georgia Route?

Dave:

At 09:47 AM 10/2/2001 -0400, you wrote:
[snip]
>So I did an alternate route, that stays on the freeway till Cleveland, TN, 
>then heads East to the campground. This, supposedly, takes 1/2 hour longer 
>than the "shortest" route.
>
>You can see the "preferred" route here: 
>http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/airstream/TOG1.htm
>You can see the alternate route here: 
>http://w3.one.net/~dlowrey1/airstream/TOG2.htm
>
>Has anyone taken either route? If so, any words of advice on which to use? 
>Or, is there a better route?
         First of all, thank you for the maps and routings - I've saved 
them and will study them more closely.
         I have not taken the route via Cleveland TN, but have considered 
it.  I've been warned off of it by various people because of the 
hills.  Basically, there's no *good* way to go, but I avoid anything that 
takes me down Ga 75 from Hiawassee - that route is hilly and full of sharp 
turns.  However, I think your route doesn't do that, but goes through 
Blairsville.  The Richard Russel Scenic Parkway is another that I've been 
warned off of because of the sharp curves; that one is on your route.  On 
the other hand,  I do know that several ToG regulars do use the route 
through Cleveland TN.  With a 31' trailer, I'd avoid the sharp turns on hills.
         We have taken several routes that leave I-75 at Dalton, GA.  We 
prefer a route that goes to the south rather than to the north, typically 
via Dalonegha, to avoid the mountain ridge between I-75 and ToG.  We even 
have a route that we may try that leaves I-75 at Cartersville.
         This is probably not of much help to you; we just have not found a 
route from I-75 to ToG that we like a lot.  I will be interested in your 
reactions to it.  See you next month at ToG.

- Dick
(5368)

"Think like a man of action.  Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/



------------------------------

Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 12:26:01 -0400
From: "Dash7 (Michigan)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Kelly Blue Books- Free!


NADA on line covers RV's between 1986 and 2000.  I've not used the RV 
section but the used auto section allows 5 free lookups per day.

www.nada.com

Don (MI)


>From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>I dont suppose it would be "legal" to scan, or otherwise copy the Airstream
>info and put it on the web, would it?
>
>After all, the data IS "old" :-)
>
>Dave
>
>At 06:48 AM 10/2/01 -0700, you wrote:

>>My local library had a book sale.  I picked up some Kelly Blue Books that
>>were not very old (all 2001 editions).

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp



------------------------------

Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2001 19:05:00 -0400
From: "Lewis A. Lindner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Top O' Georgia Route?

10/2/01 06:47:40, "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Streets & Trips says that the "fastest" route to the campground is to leave 
>I-75 in Knoxville, TN, and head south on US Highways. It runs right by the 
>Smokey mountains National park, and thorough several national forests. The 
>scenery should be lovely this time of year.

We too took that route the middle of last March, because my wife never had seen the 
Smokies!  Even snaked our way 
through the Nantahallah Gorge and down back roads into Top of Georgia.  No trouble 
with the towing -- it was a ball, one 
of the most enjoyable things we ever have done.  But never have done the other route, 
so really can't compare.

                          -- Lew #4239

'72 Safari
bicycle



------------------------------


End of VACList-Digest  #80
************************************



To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html

When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text

 

Reply via email to